why is my steering wheel still shaking??!!
01-18-2002, 01:01 PM
#21
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ok well i have solved the problem 
basically what my problem was, is that my wheel was not correctly centered on the hub, and for some reason i heard my bolts making a clicking sound(they were not on the lugs correctly, they were forced on them!) so i took of all 4 wheels, recentered the wheel on the hub and then applied the bolts, (not as easy as u think it was
) and voila no more steering wheel shaking.........thanks everyone for helping me through this dramatic experience, lol
i know where i can find help if needed!!!
teamsr, you guys are the best!!!
basically what my problem was, is that my wheel was not correctly centered on the hub, and for some reason i heard my bolts making a clicking sound(they were not on the lugs correctly, they were forced on them!) so i took of all 4 wheels, recentered the wheel on the hub and then applied the bolts, (not as easy as u think it was
) and voila no more steering wheel shaking.........thanks everyone for helping me through this dramatic experience, loli know where i can find help if needed!!!
teamsr, you guys are the best!!!
02-12-2002, 12:58 PM
#22
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I was wrong........i guess the fact of how much it(making sure the bolt were on perfectly) lessened the vibration, i just got ahead of myself....
but some time has passed and i got ahold of the infamous "hub rings"
im sure they are hub rings and the diameters are as folllows
vehicle hub: 54.1
rim diameter: 67 (i think, i dont remember this one 100 percent)
but my first prob was when i tried to mount the rings on the rims, they would not fit into the centering whole, well what i did was place the rings on the vehilce hub (it fits on there nice and snug tongue.gif ) and then put the wheel on the vehicle hub, hence my next prob
i then was forced to apply hard force and some how get the bolts on the rims and tightened down, even though the rims was not flush wit the hub, well i had to force the rings into the rims inner diameter and it worked ) ok its a snug fit and the bolts are all on the car and ready to rolll
so i tackle the higway and low and behold my steering wheel is still shaking
so at this point in time what should i do?
cause the hub rings (although they dont slide into the rims inner diameter with ease) fits the vehicle hub and rims once fully mounted and bolted up on the car....
do I....
1-get the car rebalanced, (wont hurt to try right?)
2-see if its a deeper prob (although i doubt my tires or rims have gone bad)
3- give up and sell the rims (this is not a option, just used as a joke, despite my obvious probs im goin through with them!
but some time has passed and i got ahold of the infamous "hub rings"
im sure they are hub rings and the diameters are as folllows
vehicle hub: 54.1
rim diameter: 67 (i think, i dont remember this one 100 percent)
but my first prob was when i tried to mount the rings on the rims, they would not fit into the centering whole, well what i did was place the rings on the vehilce hub (it fits on there nice and snug tongue.gif ) and then put the wheel on the vehicle hub, hence my next prob
i then was forced to apply hard force and some how get the bolts on the rims and tightened down, even though the rims was not flush wit the hub, well i had to force the rings into the rims inner diameter and it worked
) ok its a snug fit and the bolts are all on the car and ready to rolllso i tackle the higway and low and behold my steering wheel is still shaking
so at this point in time what should i do?
cause the hub rings (although they dont slide into the rims inner diameter with ease) fits the vehicle hub and rims once fully mounted and bolted up on the car....
do I....
1-get the car rebalanced, (wont hurt to try right?)
2-see if its a deeper prob (although i doubt my tires or rims have gone bad)
3- give up and sell the rims (this is not a option, just used as a joke, despite my obvious probs im goin through with them!
02-12-2002, 01:08 PM
#23
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DESCRIPTION:
This bulletin provides guidelines when using a dynamic wheel balance machine capable of providing road force measurement data, such as the Hunter GSP9700 Vibration Control System.
Tire and wheel vibration may be caused by:
Imbalance
Wheel Damage or Out-of Round
Tire RFV (Radial Force Variation)
Imbalance is normally addressed first because it is the most common cause of vibration. A well maintained off-vehicle two-plane dynamic wheel balancer can accurately correct this condition.
If a vibration or shake still exists after an imbalance has been corrected, a possible wheel out-of round condition should be addressed next.
Wheel Damage or Out-of Round conditions should be measured and corrected using the procedure outlined in the appropriate Shop Manuals in the Suspension System, Tires/Wheels section.
If the vibration condition still continues, there is a possibility that a tire may have Radial Force Variation (RFV) in excess of specifications. RFV may be defined as the amount of change in stiffness of the sidewall and footprint when a load is placed against a tire. Subtle differences in the position of the cords and belts in a tires construction can create stiff spots that make the tire roll unevenly. The stiff spots act like runout to cause vibrations at various speeds. The vibrations caused by RFV tend to appear at certain speeds and then disappear as the speed changes.
To address RFV, a wheel balancer capable of measuring RFV, such as the Hunter GSP9700 is recommended. If you do not have the recommended equipment, you may locate one in your vicinity through the Hunter website (www.gsp700.com).
Follow the machine manufacturers procedure to measure RFV.
The following assembly RFV may be used as a guide:
P-Metric passenger car tires ---> 18 lbs or less
P-Metric tires on Santa Fe --->is 24 lbs or less.
If match mounting tires to in-specification wheels produces assembly RFV values that are higher, then tire replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good RFV tires are being replaced needlessly. Since tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, the RFV should not be measured until the vehicle is driven at least 10 miles. Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicles tire pressure label on the drivers door or B-Pillar.
In cases where the wheel vibration condition cannot be improved to an acceptable level using the above procedure, the Hyundai Technical Assistance line (800-325-6604) should be contacted for further instructions.
--------------------
This bulletin provides guidelines when using a dynamic wheel balance machine capable of providing road force measurement data, such as the Hunter GSP9700 Vibration Control System.
Tire and wheel vibration may be caused by:
Imbalance
Wheel Damage or Out-of Round
Tire RFV (Radial Force Variation)
Imbalance is normally addressed first because it is the most common cause of vibration. A well maintained off-vehicle two-plane dynamic wheel balancer can accurately correct this condition.
If a vibration or shake still exists after an imbalance has been corrected, a possible wheel out-of round condition should be addressed next.
Wheel Damage or Out-of Round conditions should be measured and corrected using the procedure outlined in the appropriate Shop Manuals in the Suspension System, Tires/Wheels section.
If the vibration condition still continues, there is a possibility that a tire may have Radial Force Variation (RFV) in excess of specifications. RFV may be defined as the amount of change in stiffness of the sidewall and footprint when a load is placed against a tire. Subtle differences in the position of the cords and belts in a tires construction can create stiff spots that make the tire roll unevenly. The stiff spots act like runout to cause vibrations at various speeds. The vibrations caused by RFV tend to appear at certain speeds and then disappear as the speed changes.
To address RFV, a wheel balancer capable of measuring RFV, such as the Hunter GSP9700 is recommended. If you do not have the recommended equipment, you may locate one in your vicinity through the Hunter website (www.gsp700.com).
Follow the machine manufacturers procedure to measure RFV.
The following assembly RFV may be used as a guide:
P-Metric passenger car tires ---> 18 lbs or less
P-Metric tires on Santa Fe --->is 24 lbs or less.
If match mounting tires to in-specification wheels produces assembly RFV values that are higher, then tire replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good RFV tires are being replaced needlessly. Since tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, the RFV should not be measured until the vehicle is driven at least 10 miles. Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicles tire pressure label on the drivers door or B-Pillar.
In cases where the wheel vibration condition cannot be improved to an acceptable level using the above procedure, the Hyundai Technical Assistance line (800-325-6604) should be contacted for further instructions.
--------------------
02-12-2002, 01:46 PM
#24
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Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
green 2k accent
First thing.
Switch back to your stock wheels/tires. does that fix/solve the problem? If so, then your wheels are either not ballanced properly, or are not centered properly on the hubs, or like HRD posted, having problems with the tire tread.
Try moving the rear wheels to the front and see if that fixes/lessens the problem.
Also, if the car still vibrates with the stock wheels on, take it to the dealer to have them scope out what is wrong. If you wheels have been vibrating this long, it is entirely possible that you damaged a wheel bearing or some suspension component might now be loose.
First thing.
Switch back to your stock wheels/tires. does that fix/solve the problem? If so, then your wheels are either not ballanced properly, or are not centered properly on the hubs, or like HRD posted, having problems with the tire tread.
Try moving the rear wheels to the front and see if that fixes/lessens the problem.
Also, if the car still vibrates with the stock wheels on, take it to the dealer to have them scope out what is wrong. If you wheels have been vibrating this long, it is entirely possible that you damaged a wheel bearing or some suspension component might now be loose.
02-12-2002, 01:55 PM
#25
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ok thanks hrd tiburon and random
first ima try to rebalance, then replace with stock wheels, then ima check out the tire thread suggestion.........
may god help me....(no offense to anyone, or their religion)
sad.gif
first ima try to rebalance, then replace with stock wheels, then ima check out the tire thread suggestion.........
may god help me....(no offense to anyone, or their religion)
sad.gif
02-12-2002, 02:09 PM
#26
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The 16x7.5 wheels I had before the 17's shook also. What I theroize is that it deals with wheel offset and road condictions. That the road sets up excitations in the wheels that cause the vibration, because of the offset. I had a 40mm offset on my set. Now I have 35mm offset on my 17's, I haven't ran them this year yet. When I switched the wheels around all four did it, the severity of the shake depended on road tempratures, which equates to the surface condiction of the road. With a low profile tire it absords less road vibration, because of the reduced side wall height, thusly reducing side wall deflection and vibration absorbtion. It would be require less road deviations to drive the wheels into a frequency driven shake. If you watch your steering wheel when it shakes, see how the steering wheel goes side to side. The travel of the wheel will be equal side to side, then as you pass throught the frequency the vibration will lesson. One more thing as your tires get colder it will increase in amplitude.
Basically when you can get a component to shake like that, you have found its natural frequency. Some way to help shift the natural frequency or dampen it would be heavier wheels, change the offset, taller profile tires and steering dampening.
[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: HRD_Tiburon ]
Basically when you can get a component to shake like that, you have found its natural frequency. Some way to help shift the natural frequency or dampen it would be heavier wheels, change the offset, taller profile tires and steering dampening.
[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: HRD_Tiburon ]