Hootie

Anyone ever have to change out a wheel stud or 2?

I am pretty sure I will have to replace 1 or 2 of them when I remove my wheels this weekend.

I checked the HMA site but nothing specific to the wheel studs.

Thanks.

BoOm

I would get the oem ones mainly because they are in different sizes. 1.25 is my fit. If its the Tib's also then you could find alot of the Subaru ones for pretty cheap.

[ November 08, 2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: BoOm ]

Hootie

Actually I was looking for more of a how-to.

But thanks, Boom. wink

BoOm

Its very straight forward man. Just you have to find out how much ya got to torque it.

leftside_ryder

With mine, I have the captive rotors, had to pull off the cotter pin out the axle nut, then break loose the axle nut (pain in the *** w/o power tools) and had to use a hub puller, then the brake disc would pull apart with the hub, then remove the hub to change the lug bolts.

Hootie

Good thing I have NON-CAPTIVE rotors.

Spiffywerks

I just recently changed out one of my wheel studs, because I went to take off the tire and broke off the end of it. sad.gif

Anyways, removal on NON-captive rotors, it's really easly.

Once you get the wheel off, it's usually best to also remove the disc brake assembly and caliper bracket. Once those are off, spin the hub until you get it to a spot where you can tap the bolt out. Just take a hammer and keep hitting the end (forcing the bolt towards the car) until it comes out.

You'll need to get a new bolt from a dealership. I checked local auto parts stores, they don't have anything. New bolt runs between 3 - 5 dollars.

Installation is a little harder. Put the pin in and tap it with a tap pin (can't remember the right word). You can't use the hammer to hit it directly, because it won't go in right or straight. Once you get it in far enough to put the wheel on or something to give you space, put the lug nut on and tighten it to pull the bolt completely into place.

What I did was just get it in most of the way, then when I mounted everything back on, I just tightened the wheel really good, then losened it and tighted it again. Repeated this process until it felt nice and tight. Then a few days later after driving around, tightened it again. Worked well.

There maybe easier ways, like if you have specialised tools for changing the bolt, but this is how I did it.

Julez

Well while we're on the subject, are there any places to buy aftermarket wheel bolts?

Maybe something better than the stock wheel bolts that numerous people have seemed to have trouble with.

And note, get some antiseize compound when you put on your lugs, it'll help make sure they don't try to cold wield.

Hootie

Some things you should just trust to OEM parts.
It's not that people have had trouble with the bolts, but the new lugs available, (Gorilla, McGard, etc.), have a little notch inside them that will dig into the stud if you seat them too deep. Thus the broken stud. Regardless of who makes the stud bolts, if you tighten them too much you WILL break one trying to remove the lug nut.