What's Wrong? Brake pad fitment issues
I just did the captive to non captive swap on my tib. Yes I'm sure they are non captive. I bought new rotors from rich at rotorpros for a 2000 tiburon, non captive. I got new pads for my 98 that used to fit. I put everything together right, I'm pretty sure at least. The caliper piston is COMPLETELY depressed. New bushings and greased the pins. the Spindle nut is down enough but that shouldn't matter anyways. The caliper bracket is bolted on how it should be, bracket on the inner part, hub on the outer, and the shit was TIGHT to get on. What the hell is wrong? I put the car in first and the wheel does not spin at ALL. Why am I so retarded?


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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11,732
Likes: 5
From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
I've done brakes a few times on my tib. New ones can be tight, but not that tight!
First, new brake pads are thicker then old ones, so, like you said, the caliper needs to be fully depressed. You should make sure your cap is open on your brake fluid so that the depressing of the caliper allows the brake fluid to go back into the resivoir. Front are press in calipers, rear are twist in calipers.
If there isn't clearance, then the rotor or pads may be too thick, or your calipers may be warped.
Does it do this on both sides of the car or just one?
If it's the rear brake, the e-brake adjuster can tension/detension the rear calipers, so you may give that a try. It's under the center console arm rest bin. There's an access panel.
First, new brake pads are thicker then old ones, so, like you said, the caliper needs to be fully depressed. You should make sure your cap is open on your brake fluid so that the depressing of the caliper allows the brake fluid to go back into the resivoir. Front are press in calipers, rear are twist in calipers.
If there isn't clearance, then the rotor or pads may be too thick, or your calipers may be warped.
Does it do this on both sides of the car or just one?
If it's the rear brake, the e-brake adjuster can tension/detension the rear calipers, so you may give that a try. It's under the center console arm rest bin. There's an access panel.
Your pads are either to thick, check standards compared to webtech.
Or your piston is not fully depressed. Open up the brake fluid cap. Get a steel clamp and some stock metal/wood. Cover the piston surface with the metal/wood and clamp that sucker.
Also check rotor specs and make sure your rotors are not to thick. Compare against webtech.
Or your piston is not fully depressed. Open up the brake fluid cap. Get a steel clamp and some stock metal/wood. Cover the piston surface with the metal/wood and clamp that sucker.
Also check rotor specs and make sure your rotors are not to thick. Compare against webtech.
Well, I don't think the rotors are too thick. Many people here have used rotorpros rotors.
Just like I said
-Caliper is FULLY depressed, as in the piston is flush with the caliper.
-These are the fronts.
-The other rotor did not come in yet, I was just doing this side so I didn't waste time, so I don't know if the other side will be a problem yet. \
-These are Morse Cermic pads from AutoZone. I will try some other pads tomorrow when I go to work.
-I'm aware of the rears being screw in and the ebrake and what not.
-It wouldn't make sense that the calipers are warped... I've never done any 130-0 stops or anything to heat the calipers up that much, and they sit evenly so that is out of the question.
The only thing I can think of is either the pads or rotors are too thick, it would just be my luck I swear... But people have used these rotors before so I don't know. I'll try and get a digital caliper and measure thicknesses of both rotor and pad.
Just like I said
-Caliper is FULLY depressed, as in the piston is flush with the caliper.
-These are the fronts.
-The other rotor did not come in yet, I was just doing this side so I didn't waste time, so I don't know if the other side will be a problem yet. \
-These are Morse Cermic pads from AutoZone. I will try some other pads tomorrow when I go to work.
-I'm aware of the rears being screw in and the ebrake and what not.
-It wouldn't make sense that the calipers are warped... I've never done any 130-0 stops or anything to heat the calipers up that much, and they sit evenly so that is out of the question.
The only thing I can think of is either the pads or rotors are too thick, it would just be my luck I swear... But people have used these rotors before so I don't know. I'll try and get a digital caliper and measure thicknesses of both rotor and pad.
Most likely the pads. Ive had to sand some down before in order to make them fit right. Be sure its all installed correct though first. Make sure you dont have corrosion behind the rotor where it sits.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11,732
Likes: 5
From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
^^It's not as bad as you think. Find a good level shop floor, use that as a sander. Then clean up your mess afterwards. I've removed glaze from a used pad the same way. It's a cool little trick if you get oil on a pad. I've never tried actually sanding a pad with a sander though.
Well, HMA said the rotor should be 22mm. Mine measured about 24.75mm. The pad is supposed to be 9mm, but I don't know if they mean the entire pad, or just the 'meat' so to speak. The actual stopping pad measured around 11mm, but if they mean total, mine measure about 16.4mm. So I guess I'll have to go to Hyundai tomorrow and ask to see a brake pad. I'm at a loss......
I have rotorpros as well. Mine were a little thick as well, THATS why I told you to check LOL.
I had to file down the first brake pads I used on those rotors in order for everything to work. After that you won't have a problem doing another brake bad change. The rotor will wear itself by the time your next brake change is up, than you'll be able to fit the bigger pads on. Most of the time when you buy pads, they come a bit over sized to make up for the loss of rotor material.
BTW, don't forget to properly "break in" the rotors and pads.
Side note: I was just in Big team, joining the game. It was taking a while getting in the game, finally did and realized it was just this one guy and me left on our team. Everyone else left. There was only 6 left on the other team. LOL. Couldn't back out so we get in on sandtrap slayer. My team mate quits, and its just me vs 6. I win 10-6 at the end GG@ninja skills
I had to file down the first brake pads I used on those rotors in order for everything to work. After that you won't have a problem doing another brake bad change. The rotor will wear itself by the time your next brake change is up, than you'll be able to fit the bigger pads on. Most of the time when you buy pads, they come a bit over sized to make up for the loss of rotor material.
BTW, don't forget to properly "break in" the rotors and pads.
Side note: I was just in Big team, joining the game. It was taking a while getting in the game, finally did and realized it was just this one guy and me left on our team. Everyone else left. There was only 6 left on the other team. LOL. Couldn't back out so we get in on sandtrap slayer. My team mate quits, and its just me vs 6. I win 10-6 at the end GG@ninja skills


