Screwdriver

Just got my set in. They are VERY nice rotors.

Here's my question:

The rear rotors are different from the Captive front rotors in two ways:

1. The holes for the lugs are noticably smaller

2. The center cavity/ hole is considerably larger.


Are they supposed to be this way? How will it fit on if the lug holes are smaller?

Thanks

'treezy

it's fine, that's how they are.

rear rotors do not equal front rotors.

You DO realize what you are going to have to go through to get those captive rotors on the wheel hub, don't you?

Screwdriver

Dismount the wheel, unbolt captive bolts then center and then put new rotors on, no?

Or is there more?

gsasha1

Well YEAH!

The damn old (captive) hyundais have to get the wheel bearing pressed into the disc.


Only on front.

Rear is a fast bolt-on.

FlyRyde

Aviv, go buy two new wheel bearings as well. And leave your number next time you hit me up, I dont have it anywhere? But yeah, you'll basically destroy the bearings when the shop pulls the hub out of your captive set up. They'll take your rotor, and new bearing, and dust shield etc. and you'll get a one piece unit back. No matter how much you loosen those captive bolts, that rotor isn't going anywhere unless you have a press. Captive sucks, but hey, you'll have a nice set of rotors, and I buy bearings from autozone for 17 bux each, so no big loss there.

BUT then you gotta pay for an alignment. DO THIS. You'll be a retard like me and go through tons of bearings (4 or 5 last year) if you dont. I get the job done around here for 40 bux. So thats 74 bux after the 20 dollar minimum charge to press the bearing, but they'll probably be all gay about it cause it has the rotor too.

You'll spend at least 100 bux even after what you've spent. Thats why so many opt for the non captive swap. That'd cost you 100 bux in parts, no bearing, no pressing or 20 bux to press in. So you'll still need an alignment, but now you'd be able to change rotors as fast as wheels basically. Just two extra 17mm bolts behind the caliper and those things are free.

Id did the swap on two of my tibs. I'd do it two more times.

'treezy

^^Word, that's what I'm doing. I swapped from drum to disc in the back and when I did I ordered drilled/slotted non-captive rotors, but my front wheel hubs were still captive.

So instead of spending 100 bucks at a shop to swap my rotors ONE TIME ONLY, I decided to find a junkyard with non-captive front wheels hubs (rotors and calipers excluded, because you can use those from the set-up on your ride now).

So that's like 100 for parts from the junkyard and then all ya gotta do is disconnect the rotor from the wheel hub on your car now (first remove wheel hub, then remove rotor ..but your bearings will be destroyed...it's okay you have new bearings on the non-captive hubs you got from the junkyard). Then put the new rotors on the hubs from the junkyard, remove calipers from captive-hub and put those on the non-captive hubs, replace wheel hub assembly and voila, now you got drilled/slotted rotora and a captive to non-captive swap.

This way if ya ever need new front rotos or wanna get them re-surfaced then all ya gotta do is remove the wheel and two more 17mm bolts, instead of buying new wheel bearings everytime you need to take off front rotors.

I think I may have found TWO sets of non-captive hubs at the junkyard if you have no luck finding any...

Screwdriver

Patreezy,

I've had no luck finding any non-captive hubs which is why I purchased the captive set. 02.gif

From my understanding I'd need the hub and the spindle. I don't think I can use the captive rotor for a non captive assembly, or can I?

What about the caliper?

If you do have access to another assembly, let me know how much it will cost you. You'd be helping me out immensely.

Aviv

HyundaiKitCoupe

all you do is swap both front hubs to 2000 spec hubs from any garage. they'll order one from a junk yard. $300-$350 and you're all set.

the front rotors are always different than rear. it's like comparing gloves to shoes. the front ones are bigger for a reason because the rear discs only help the front brakes. captive rotors will fit non-captive hubs but you're going to get less surface contact from the rotor to the hub meaning there will be more stress on the lugs.

good luck!

'treezy

yes I will find out all I can for you when I go to junkyard (they don't seem to like phones...)

Calipers will work on both captive and non-captive (either or).

Your captive drilled/slotted rotors will work on non-captive set-up but like HKC said....
I'd say, If you could sell the captive drilled/slotted rotors easily and buy new non-captives drilled/slotted easily then do it, but if it becomes too much of a hassle you'll be fine with what you have.

Screwdriver

Hmmm...ok. I was going to get the rotors changed this weekend. My passenger side rotor is warped and is eating into my inner pad.

Any idea when you might go?

Thanks alot man