Question about drag slicks
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Upstate NY
Vehicle: 2010 Genesis 2.0T
Is there a specific hp rating your car should be at to run slicks? Or can any car run slicks pretty much? Is there different types of slicks one should particularly use over another? Just something I'm really curious about and would like to learn a little more on.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
First off, I would advise anyone to practice their launches. Untill your 60' time gets consistent in the low 2.4's, don't worry about slicks.
once you've got consistent 60' times, then you can move to slicks. By then you will have your clutch/transmission/wheelspin problems figured out.
There are 2 main types of "slicks". There are "DOT legal" and "racing".
DOT legal tires are not true slicks, but after the tread is shaved, they become slicks. They offer much improved grip over street tires, at the expense of short wear/life. DOT legal slicks should last you about 75-100 runs down the drag strip, or about a season to half a season in autocross. (depeding on track conditions, weather, how hard you drive/spin the tires, camber/alighment settings..etc..etc..etc..)
True racing tires are ultra grippy, and offer an ultra short life. They will last 10-25 runs at the drag strip and 2-5 events in autocrossing (in classes that allow "race" tires).
Both types of tires react adversely to heat cycles. Basically, the gripper the compound, the worse it reacts to being used/cooled, used/cooled.
For your "first" set of race tires, I would suggest "DOT LEGAL" tires over true slicks. The traction difference is still huge, and until you get the hang of the added grip, you'd just be wasting money on race only tires. Considering the short life/heat cycle problems of true race tires, you only want to use them for "special" events. Use "DOT legal" tires for your "fun" drag nights and save the true slicks for the really imporant drags.
once you've got consistent 60' times, then you can move to slicks. By then you will have your clutch/transmission/wheelspin problems figured out.
There are 2 main types of "slicks". There are "DOT legal" and "racing".
DOT legal tires are not true slicks, but after the tread is shaved, they become slicks. They offer much improved grip over street tires, at the expense of short wear/life. DOT legal slicks should last you about 75-100 runs down the drag strip, or about a season to half a season in autocross. (depeding on track conditions, weather, how hard you drive/spin the tires, camber/alighment settings..etc..etc..etc..)
True racing tires are ultra grippy, and offer an ultra short life. They will last 10-25 runs at the drag strip and 2-5 events in autocrossing (in classes that allow "race" tires).
Both types of tires react adversely to heat cycles. Basically, the gripper the compound, the worse it reacts to being used/cooled, used/cooled.
For your "first" set of race tires, I would suggest "DOT LEGAL" tires over true slicks. The traction difference is still huge, and until you get the hang of the added grip, you'd just be wasting money on race only tires. Considering the short life/heat cycle problems of true race tires, you only want to use them for "special" events. Use "DOT legal" tires for your "fun" drag nights and save the true slicks for the really imporant drags.
QUOTE
turbulence:
but i think they also make "heat cycled" slicks that are more resistant to that heat cycling problem.
Heat cycling is a service offered by the Tire Rack, as well as other reputable tire sellers. When you order a tire and have it heat cycled, it is mounted to a test wheel and broken in properly on amachine instead of having you drive around on imperfect road with imperfect alighnments, ensuring even grip, better thermal stability and longer wear. Hoosier and Kuhmo both recommend that their tires be heat cycled prior to use. but i think they also make "heat cycled" slicks that are more resistant to that heat cycling problem.
The other kind of heat cycling is the heating and cooling of the tire from use. The only thing holding the tire to the road is friction. This friction causes the tire to get heat up. Once the car is stopped the tire obviously cools down. This cycle of heating and cooling (hence heat cycling) causes the rubber compound to get harder and harder and also serves to break down the rbber molecules untill the tire is no longer fit for service.
Harder tires, like most all-season tires, are already hard so this heat cycling has less of an effect on them so they last longer, in addition to the tread hardness making it hold up better against the abrasive concrete and asphalt roadway. The softer you go, the more senstive to temperature the tire will be and treadwear will go down as well.
DOT Racing tires and R compound tires are at the extreme soft end. Tires like the Falken Azenis, though an extremely soft street tire, are still waaaay harder than any R compound tire.
I agree completely with Tony, get consistent before you get slicks. I suggest the Falken Azenis. They are fairly temperature sensitive for a street tire, which will teach you how to keep a tire in its happy place. They are VERY grippy, which will help your launching and help you learn the weaker areas in your driveline before you shell out $600+ for race tires. I've heard of them last 10-20k miles, but I've also heard of them lasting a mere 5000 miles.



