Braking, Wheels, Tires, Suspension Modifications to Brake Rotors, Calipers, Wheels, Tires, Springs, Struts, Coilovers, Swaybars, Strut Tower Braces, etc.

Non-Captive Rotor Swap

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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 06:19 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: Cheap A/F gauge

Only change the pads if you need to. They will work with the rotors fine.

As a rule of thumb you should always change your rotors and pads together, but if you have new pads I'd leave them in for a little while.

And I always thought the bearing comes with the hub and spindles. But now I'm not sure. Way to go and get me thinking. The gerbil is pissed.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 06:31 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: Ugliest Tibs around

Yeah I need to change my pads anyways.
I'm not sure about the bearings, but I thought I read somewhere that you should change the bearings when you change the spindle/hub assy.
I was just checkin, if I can get away with not changing it, that would be fine with me.

***EDIT***

OK, just read through Webtech and when your changing your hub/spindle/rotor assy it says to check for a defective bearing and replace if defective but otherwise it says nothing. Ok mark that off the list.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 08:28 PM
  #23  
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Default Re: 97 & 99 Tiburon part out

Damn you beat me to it. Looks like the bearing is separate from the whole assembly. Funny though, I looked at the 2000 and 2001: Components Section and they showed the same diagram. It wasn't until the 2003 section that it showed the actual non captive part.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 12:39 PM
  #24  
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So if I do captive - non captive swap, can I use my old bearings (they are run only 10,000 miles)?
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 01:40 PM
  #25  
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should be able to. I am just about to embark on this little adventure so I'll know more then.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:43 PM
  #26  
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if you could, would it be possible to make a DIY?

i know it would help ALOT of people out.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:47 PM
  #27  
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You read my mind, I have nothing to offer the community but pictures and kind words. As soon as I get the parts from TC, consider it done.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 10:14 PM
  #28  
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Well, keep in mind that to remove the hub from the spindle, you need to pull the bearing apart. After the bearing has been seperated, it can be put bac ktogether, but any (honest) shop will tell you that a beearing won't (or shouldn't) last more than 6 months after its been pulled apart. I seperated a drum bearing when i did my rears last fall, freaked out, and put it back together, and it's still fine, but from what I hear, after the bearing seperates, it will never be as smooth.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:58 PM
  #29  
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Okay so the bearing is inside the Hub/spindle assembly. Gotcha. I wasn't really sure what pieces I'd have to buy to get this installed and working correctly. I'll def do a DIY now since there is so much gray area.
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