REDZMAN

I'm looking on ebay, and I'm finding some cheaper prices on the rotors too, and some more expensive. I wonder where I can get some just dimpled and slotted.

I'll contact the folks you used, if you say they were good.

I'm assuming the rear rotors should work the same, I just wonder about calipers. Bah, I'll probably just put some matching rear rotors on.

The 2 screws you are talking about, on the face of the center of the rotor right?

Bah, most of us take those off for rims anyways, mine wouldn't go on with those there.

javageek

The reason I would want rears is because mine look crazy small compared to my Willwoods up front. lol

'treezy

WOW! That is a tight fit with those RD2 wheels. omfg.gif

JonGTR

Yea, the two screws are on the face of the rotor and join the rotor to the hub so you don't have to do a balancing act when putting the caliper on.
My rims fit around the screws.

I think I'm just gonna get a set of stock size rear d/s rotors. They sell them seperately on ebay.

REDZMAN

Last questions I can think of.

1. Brake lines bolt right up?
2. With 2 pistons, how much fluid did you need to add to make up for the extra volume now?
3. Are there any performance brake pads for the 350 that you know of?
4. ABS matter for the calipers or not (I'm gandering a few sets right now).
5. What's your opinion on the drive quality/upgrade?

JonGTR

1. Yes, perfect.
2. I drained it completely when I took off the lines. Then filled up the reservoir using a small bottle of fluid. Used it all. then bled the brakes and ended up draining the reservoir again. Luckily I had some extra fluid laying around.
3. Don't know. Actually, I think Faith used Hawks.
4. Don't know, I don't have ABS.
5. It definately brakes harder, but I haven't gone through any high speed trials yet. Right now I'm actually taking it easy because ........dammit!!!..........I broke my 35346523462nd stud. So I'm limping it to and from work and plan to replace the studs around 1 today. Then I can go out and have some fun. I have no freaking clue why I keep breaking studs over there. I'm gonna buy the ARP's soon though.

REDZMAN

For the ABS question, I meant for the calipers. I don't have ABS either, but the calipers I see listed have ABS mentioned on some.

As for the studs, you know what stopped that problem for me? A steel brush.

Every time I take off my wheels now, I steel brush the threads of the studs to get everything off, no more problems.


BTW, some helpful info for everyone on this swap.

Part Numbers (Not sure if the XG 300 is the same or not) and cost from dealer for the calipers.

58190-39A30 - $242.58
58180-39A30 - $242.58

'treezy

JonGTR, do you have the ARP parts # for the studs?

JonGTR

Stickies my friend.

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=8935

I'm working on getting two sets (10 studs) for about $72 shipped.

01tibby

i did a buttload of research on this way back in the day. i decided to go with wilwood parts and piece together my own wilwood bbk, i just ran out of time and like the 50 more bucks i needed to finish it.

but i do have some questions/comments.

a lot of people were using sonata rotors back when i was thinking about doing this. the problem with that was that the sonata rotors were like 280mm, while the xg ones were 276mm(something like that, can't remember exact numbers). point is, getting 4-hole rotors the same exact size as the xg ones was impossible unless you got them drilled. it's something the newtib guys dealt with when they were simply slapping on xg calipers on their hubs, the rotors were wearing funny. they also had problems with the actual rotor hitting the slightly smaller diameter-accompanying xg caliper when things heat up. do you have that problem?

also, this is TONS heavier than stock. not only do you have a heavier rotor, but it's larger and pushes more mass to the outside, increasing the moment of inertia and making it harder to stop. xg350 calipers are heavier than 5lb. more than stock each too if i recall correctly. somewhere around 12 lbs. total increase caliper-wise.