Hubcentric Rings
listen fvckstick... for one, don't quote the post above you
http://www.miata.net/garage/hubcentric.html
http://www.moderntiredealer.com/t_inside.c...mp;storyID=1196
http://www.americanracingwheelsinfo.com/center_bore.htm
http://www.miata.net/garage/hubcentric.html
QUOTE
Many aftermarket wheels will have larger diameter hub openings. If you have matched the bolt pattern, you could just bolt the wheel in place, but you would be relying on the lugs to center the wheel (a lug centric set-up). To make your aftermarket wheel hub centric, you can get adapter rings to increase the size of the hub.
This is the assembly with the adapter in place. The red dot shows where the stock wheel would rest, and the blue dot shows where the aftermarket wheel rests. The plastic ring converts the wheel/hub to the more desireable hub centric set-up.
This is the assembly with the adapter in place. The red dot shows where the stock wheel would rest, and the blue dot shows where the aftermarket wheel rests. The plastic ring converts the wheel/hub to the more desireable hub centric set-up.
http://www.moderntiredealer.com/t_inside.c...mp;storyID=1196
QUOTE
To prevent comebacks and complaints about vibration problems that wonテつエt show up even when you re-balance, make sure that the wheel is properly centered onto the hub to achieve concentric operation.
In other words, the center of the wheel must align with the center of the hub so that the tire rolls down the road without excessive radial runout.
One of two methods are used to properly center the wheel: hubcentric locating and lugcentric locating. Hubcentric means that the wheel relies on its centering at the hub, while lugcentric wheels rely on fastener alignment alone. (SORTA LIKE OUR OEM WHEELS???)
If the wheel is centered using a hubcentric approach, the true centering of the wheel to the hub/axle centerline is handled by the fit of the wheelテつエs center hole female rear face over a male shoulder that surrounds the hub center.
If the wheel is centered using a lugcentric method, wheel centering position is determined by matching the wheel holes relative to the wheel studs. This assumes that the wheelテつエs fastener holes will precisely locate over the studs, when clamped with nuts, to align the wheel center to the hub axle center.
How can you identify the type of centering method? If the rear of the wheel features a distinct female recess that fits snugly over the hubテつエs raised (male) center flange, the wheel is hubcentric. If the rear of the wheelテつエs center hole does not feature a machined recess, or if the hub face does not feature a raised male lip surrounding its center, the wheel is lugcentric.
INSTALLATION
When installing hubcentric wheels, the wheel must be fully seated so that the center female relief engages over the hubテつエs male locating lip. Always make sure you follow the correct tightening sequence.
When installing a lugcentric wheel, itテつエs very important to avoid allowing the wheel to simply "hang" on the studs while installing the nuts. Hold the wheel flat to the hub face, and gradually snug the nuts, again following the correct tightening sequence (apply even clamping pressure across the wheelテつエs bolt pattern).
If the wheelテつエs bolt holes are somewhat forgiving (larger than necessary), itテつエs possible to tighten the wheel slightly off-center. This will result in easy threading of some nuts, while others may require additional force because they are experiencing too much sidewall friction on one side of the hole.
Lugcentric wheels, by virtue of relying on proper (and equal) centering of each wheel bolt hole over each hub stud, are extremely susceptible to off-centering if the wheelテつエs bolt holes are damaged (elongated) through abuse. Wheel bolt-hole damage is cause for concern on any wheel, but can result in wheel centering problems and subsequent radial runout on a lugcentric style attachment. Hubcentric wheels are less prone to be affected, since centering relies on the wheel center-to-hub-center mating.
OE VS. AFTERMARKET
Hubcentric wheels may be designed as vehicle-specific. This means that the female recess on the rear of the wheelテつエs center hole may be machined to precisely fit over the hubテつエs male centering lip.
However, many aftermarket custom wheels may be designed to fit a number of different vehicle applications, in order to reduce SKUs. In this case, the wheelテつエs female recess may be maximized to fit the largest diameter hub center.
In order to fit the same wheel onto vehicles that feature smaller diameter hub centers, alloy or plastic hubcentric spacers are necessary. The spacerテつエs OD (outside diameter) is designed to fit the wheelテつエs large recess, and the spacerテつエs ID (inside diameter) is sized to fit specific smaller hub center flanges.
A variety of spacers are available with ID dimensions to fit the hub lip OD of all vehicles intended for that specific wheel. These spacers simply snap into the rear of the wheelテつエs center recess, and are held captive to the wheel. These spacers usually are designed to prevent sticking (via electrolysis) to the wheel or hub (plastic spacers or anodized alloy).
If the set of wheels you ordered for a specific vehicle are designed for hubcentric centering, donテつエt blindly assume that you can simply bolt the wheels on and go. Pay attention to the fit of the wheelテつエs rear center recess to the hub male center flange. If it does not fit snugly (far too loose), hubcentric spacers may be needed.
Usually, aftermarket wheels are shipped with spacers when needed to suit the particular vehicle. Always check with your supplier to determine if spacers are needed for a specific vehicle application.
In other words, the center of the wheel must align with the center of the hub so that the tire rolls down the road without excessive radial runout.
One of two methods are used to properly center the wheel: hubcentric locating and lugcentric locating. Hubcentric means that the wheel relies on its centering at the hub, while lugcentric wheels rely on fastener alignment alone. (SORTA LIKE OUR OEM WHEELS???)
If the wheel is centered using a hubcentric approach, the true centering of the wheel to the hub/axle centerline is handled by the fit of the wheelテつエs center hole female rear face over a male shoulder that surrounds the hub center.
If the wheel is centered using a lugcentric method, wheel centering position is determined by matching the wheel holes relative to the wheel studs. This assumes that the wheelテつエs fastener holes will precisely locate over the studs, when clamped with nuts, to align the wheel center to the hub axle center.
How can you identify the type of centering method? If the rear of the wheel features a distinct female recess that fits snugly over the hubテつエs raised (male) center flange, the wheel is hubcentric. If the rear of the wheelテつエs center hole does not feature a machined recess, or if the hub face does not feature a raised male lip surrounding its center, the wheel is lugcentric.
INSTALLATION
When installing hubcentric wheels, the wheel must be fully seated so that the center female relief engages over the hubテつエs male locating lip. Always make sure you follow the correct tightening sequence.
When installing a lugcentric wheel, itテつエs very important to avoid allowing the wheel to simply "hang" on the studs while installing the nuts. Hold the wheel flat to the hub face, and gradually snug the nuts, again following the correct tightening sequence (apply even clamping pressure across the wheelテつエs bolt pattern).
If the wheelテつエs bolt holes are somewhat forgiving (larger than necessary), itテつエs possible to tighten the wheel slightly off-center. This will result in easy threading of some nuts, while others may require additional force because they are experiencing too much sidewall friction on one side of the hole.
Lugcentric wheels, by virtue of relying on proper (and equal) centering of each wheel bolt hole over each hub stud, are extremely susceptible to off-centering if the wheelテつエs bolt holes are damaged (elongated) through abuse. Wheel bolt-hole damage is cause for concern on any wheel, but can result in wheel centering problems and subsequent radial runout on a lugcentric style attachment. Hubcentric wheels are less prone to be affected, since centering relies on the wheel center-to-hub-center mating.
OE VS. AFTERMARKET
Hubcentric wheels may be designed as vehicle-specific. This means that the female recess on the rear of the wheelテつエs center hole may be machined to precisely fit over the hubテつエs male centering lip.
However, many aftermarket custom wheels may be designed to fit a number of different vehicle applications, in order to reduce SKUs. In this case, the wheelテつエs female recess may be maximized to fit the largest diameter hub center.
In order to fit the same wheel onto vehicles that feature smaller diameter hub centers, alloy or plastic hubcentric spacers are necessary. The spacerテつエs OD (outside diameter) is designed to fit the wheelテつエs large recess, and the spacerテつエs ID (inside diameter) is sized to fit specific smaller hub center flanges.
A variety of spacers are available with ID dimensions to fit the hub lip OD of all vehicles intended for that specific wheel. These spacers simply snap into the rear of the wheelテつエs center recess, and are held captive to the wheel. These spacers usually are designed to prevent sticking (via electrolysis) to the wheel or hub (plastic spacers or anodized alloy).
If the set of wheels you ordered for a specific vehicle are designed for hubcentric centering, donテつエt blindly assume that you can simply bolt the wheels on and go. Pay attention to the fit of the wheelテつエs rear center recess to the hub male center flange. If it does not fit snugly (far too loose), hubcentric spacers may be needed.
Usually, aftermarket wheels are shipped with spacers when needed to suit the particular vehicle. Always check with your supplier to determine if spacers are needed for a specific vehicle application.
http://www.americanracingwheelsinfo.com/center_bore.htm
QUOTE
The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. Centerbores on wheels are typically a standard size by brand or size (measured in inches or mm). Hub sizes vary by vehicle brand and style.
When this hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration, it is said that the wheel is テ「竄ャナ塗ub centricテ「竄ャツ.
Some wheels require centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel in order to become hub centric and reduce the risk of vibration while driving. This is an acceptable alternative.
If you donテ「竄ャ邃「t not have hub centric wheels (lug centric), they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can push the wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.
When this hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration, it is said that the wheel is テ「竄ャナ塗ub centricテ「竄ャツ.
Some wheels require centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel in order to become hub centric and reduce the risk of vibration while driving. This is an acceptable alternative.
If you donテ「竄ャ邃「t not have hub centric wheels (lug centric), they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can push the wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 245
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From: Shanghai ... for now!
Vehicle: Hyundai Elantra 2000
ok, I agree, I was wrong, sorry but english is not my first language, so sometimes I got lost in translation.
I overlooked some sentences and didn't tried to re-read some tings I didn't understood ...
But I don't think that calling names is the way to validate your points!
It might have looked like I was "being a moron and refusing to listen" but it was not the case. So thanks anyway for your lack of patience and social skills!
I overlooked some sentences and didn't tried to re-read some tings I didn't understood ...
But I don't think that calling names is the way to validate your points!
It might have looked like I was "being a moron and refusing to listen" but it was not the case. So thanks anyway for your lack of patience and social skills!
you were continually trying to pass along incorrect info that can be damaging to somebody's car, rather than taking into consideration what myself and spart told you plenty of times. you were being very "matter-a-fact" about what you thought was correct as well, pretty stubborn, and even a bit of a dick at times. we really don't have time to tell people the same thing 4 times over...it gets a bit ridiculous.
it's ok, just next time if you think differently than a member who has been here forever and is established as at least knowing a little bit about cars, do some research elsewhere and be willing to reconsider your beliefs before we have to do the research for you. we don't like spoon-feeding.
it's ok, just next time if you think differently than a member who has been here forever and is established as at least knowing a little bit about cars, do some research elsewhere and be willing to reconsider your beliefs before we have to do the research for you. we don't like spoon-feeding.
regardless of who was right or wrong, jalmir did nothing wrong in this thread besides mistaking information.
Sparticus was wrong for losing his temper and language.
I appreciate Jalmir acting appropriate and not responding as harshly as he could have. He's new to the site, but the others of you should know better spank.gif
argh... wish I could warn mods
Sparticus was wrong for losing his temper and language.
I appreciate Jalmir acting appropriate and not responding as harshly as he could have. He's new to the site, but the others of you should know better spank.gif
argh... wish I could warn mods



