Front braking assembly (captive and non-captive)
In summary (to see if I have the concepts down).
For both setups:
The bearing is pressed into the knuckle. The knuckle is identical for both.
For Captive rotors:
The hub is bolted to the rotor, then the hub/rotor assembly is pressed into the inside of the bearing (already in the knuckle).
For Non-captive rotors:
The hub is simply pressed into the inside of the bearing, already in the knuckle. The rotor slips over the studs, then the wheel. Voila, much simpler.
So, for any captive to non-captive conversion, I need:
Hubs (1999 or later) for non-captive rotors
New rotors (non-captive)
New wheel bearings ('cause the old ones get destroyed removing the captive hub).
After removal, I will have to have the old bearing/hub pulled from the knuckle and the new bearing installed by a machine shop. Then the new hub pressed in.
Is that it? Other than the pressing part, it seems pretty simple. I found several places where you can get rotors and hubs (non-captive) for about $60. I guess the expensive part is the bearings.
Please correct me if anything is wrong (and reaffirm me, if I have it correct wink )
thanks,
ac
edit: I tried using the search feature, but a lot of the old TeamSR threads regarding this topic (and a couple of PM's from Chris H to me) were deleted. So I apologize if this seems covered (I know it was a long while ago), but the data seems gone. Especially Chris H's howto on this, that was pretty well written.
[ February 28, 2003, 10:52 AM: Message edited by: Curtas ]
For both setups:
The bearing is pressed into the knuckle. The knuckle is identical for both.
For Captive rotors:
The hub is bolted to the rotor, then the hub/rotor assembly is pressed into the inside of the bearing (already in the knuckle).
For Non-captive rotors:
The hub is simply pressed into the inside of the bearing, already in the knuckle. The rotor slips over the studs, then the wheel. Voila, much simpler.
So, for any captive to non-captive conversion, I need:
Hubs (1999 or later) for non-captive rotors
New rotors (non-captive)
New wheel bearings ('cause the old ones get destroyed removing the captive hub).
After removal, I will have to have the old bearing/hub pulled from the knuckle and the new bearing installed by a machine shop. Then the new hub pressed in.
Is that it? Other than the pressing part, it seems pretty simple. I found several places where you can get rotors and hubs (non-captive) for about $60. I guess the expensive part is the bearings.
Please correct me if anything is wrong (and reaffirm me, if I have it correct wink )
thanks,
ac
edit: I tried using the search feature, but a lot of the old TeamSR threads regarding this topic (and a couple of PM's from Chris H to me) were deleted. So I apologize if this seems covered (I know it was a long while ago), but the data seems gone. Especially Chris H's howto on this, that was pretty well written.
[ February 28, 2003, 10:52 AM: Message edited by: Curtas ]
Okay, since nobody replied, I guess I'm on the right track.
I called St. Charles Auto and even with a discount the front bearings are $88 each and the rear ones are $90 to $120 depending on if you have ABS or not (hub is different for ABS cars).
It may actually be cheaper to get the whole front spindle assembly with the bearing already there than having a new one pressed in.
Man this gets expensive fast!
ac
I called St. Charles Auto and even with a discount the front bearings are $88 each and the rear ones are $90 to $120 depending on if you have ABS or not (hub is different for ABS cars).
It may actually be cheaper to get the whole front spindle assembly with the bearing already there than having a new one pressed in.
Man this gets expensive fast!
ac
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
Yeah, it is expensive. I think I paid $130 each for rear hub assemblies with the bearings already pressed in. (2). My rear wheel bearings were going out and I had to replace them.
Damn...makes me wish I had just said screw it and moved to the new tibby hubs/bearings. Then I would have 5 lug hubs and would have a much easier time getting wheels!!!!!
Damn...makes me wish I had just said screw it and moved to the new tibby hubs/bearings. Then I would have 5 lug hubs and would have a much easier time getting wheels!!!!!


