warnarf

I have looked through the forums here and have found several topics on changing out the wheel bearings. Changing them out isn't the problem for me, it's the fact I need to change them all the time. The factory ones lasted to about 100k miles and now I have to replace them about every 30k. I have to change them again right now for the 4th or 5th time. Does anyone else know why they keep getting eaten up. By eaten up I mean you can shake the wheel up and down and when you take the axle nut the hub just falls out. The entire ball carrier and whatnot just falls apart. I've used Timken, SK, and National bearings. I've tried torquing the axle nut properly and I've tried tightening it down as hard as I can. Neither one made any difference. As a matter of fact, everytime it's time to change them, I can take the axle nut off by hand which I don't think is the way it's supposed to be. I've been taking them to the local alignment shop to get the bearings pressed in but this time I went and bought a press to do it myself. Does anyone here have this problem or any insight as to why I chew up bearings?

Bullfrog

I donno why you would be eating up bearings, Is the knuckle assembly still good? When one of your bearings went bad did you gaul it into the knuckle? You should not be able to take your castle nut off by hand, you are using cotter pins right?

Take pictures of your next change for a couple of reasons.
1. would make a good DIY
2. Maybe someone would see something that you missed
3. picture taking of cars is fun.

warnarf

I've replaced the ball joints once and will probably do it again this time since I jacked one of them up with the pickle fork getting it off. As far as galling, I don't know if they we galled into the spindle since I had a shop do all the pressing. Too late for DIY pix, they are already off. I have the cotter pins installed and the nuts back all the way off until they hit them. That's probably when the breakdown starts I'd imagine. I think this time I'll Loctite the nuts on.

alexlepp

The nut should not be able to back off till it hits the pin because the cotterpin should prevent the nut(castle nut) from turning once it is in place.

Caj Darkmoon

Yeah, gotta be honest, that doesnt make sense. The whole point of the castle nut is that the cotter pin keeps it from rotating at all, shouldn't be able to 'back off' into anything. You might want to throw up a picture of that.

warnarf

On mine at least, you can hand screw the nut down so far that the cotter pin is above the castle nut grooves. When set at the proper torque value there is about a 3/16th inch of space between the top of the castle nut and the hole the pin slides in. I am still using the stock axles so I am not using the wrong ones smile.gif

Caj Darkmoon

Something's definitely not right then man, you should really post up a picture.

cheesebox

The most common cause of failed wheel bearings is failure to follow the castle nut torque procedure. buy a torque wrench. Buy new cotter pins, shoot buy a new castle nut the one you have could have its threads stretched and slightly misaligned.

Caj Darkmoon

^^^ Actually I think the most common cause of bearing failure is 'owning a hyundai' wink1.gif

Probably followed by that though.

cheesebox

His original bearing lasted 100k miles, perfectly acceptable for a wheel bearing. Thats because it was correctly torqued from the factory. If you have a castle nut not correctly lining up then get out your breaker bar get out your 28mm socket and stand on that breaker bar, just enough to get the cotter pin through. That will atleast guarantee their wont be play, any play in the axle = blown bearings. Its not the best solution but as a last choice, when you need to get your car back together and you cant get a new castle nut do it. The castle nut metal is MUCH weaker then the axle you wont strip the axle.