J3R0MY

i went to the brake shop today to get an alignment. I also told him about my rear brakes. for a LONG time i have dealt with the constant rubbing of the rear pads grabbing the rotor. He said the problem was that the E-brake doesn't go all the way where it is supposed to, meaning when the e-brake is used, it doesn't return off the rotor; rather just barely applied making a rubbing noise.

now, for my question. He said that the only way that he knew to stop it would be new calipers on the rear. now, is this true? Wile i was below i noticed a coil/spring that winds when the brake is pulled and unwinds when released. could i just replace this piece?

anyways, i searched for almost an hour but nothing really applied to this topic. so any help is welcome.

DTN

I'd like an answer to this too. My e-brake tends to grab and I have to pump it a few times until it feels right on my hand.â™

HyundaiKitCoupe

alex01 knows the answer to this. i've got the same shit. my right cable is like stuck. it's a pin or bolt on the caliper that needs to be replaced. i forget which one but basically it's not a problem with your cable it's the bolt is worn down and locked your caliper.

StrikeEagle

If you remove your center console you can get at some adjustment bolts. Try losening them a little (carefully) and see if it helps.
How far do you have to pull your e-brake for it to engage fully?

DTN

mine is limp for 1 full click right now.. even the CF vinyl e brake boot tends to push it past that 1st click. It's not tightened too much. I've tried tightening it.

98tibby98

Nice to see I'm not the only one who had this problem. I was driving down tho 401 (major highway in ontario canada) and when i got off at my exit i could smell burning. Turns out it was my rear left brake grabbing. I went to my uncles just down the street (he drives a kia rio) and said hes had the same problem. He told me to pull up on the e-brake super hard about 4 or 5 times in a row to loosen it up. I did this, it worked like a charm, no more grabbing smile.gif. Oh, also after this, I no longer use my POS e-brake lol, I just put in 1st gear when parked.

J3R0MY

i have tried the E-brake pulling thing, it didn't work for me. if you could, would you be able to tell me exactly what bolt/pin and maybe get some pics of it so i can show the mechanic?

also, this nor grabbing enough to hinder my driving, it just makes a shudder soud. sha shum sha shum sha shum. it doesn't go away if i rip the e-brake, and it doesnt go away if i turn left of right. Also he check to make sure it wasn't the wheel bearings, so its not that.

DTN

J3: you may want to try pulling off the caliper and re-greasing the guides. Lightly grease with rubber grease or caliper grease from your favorite auto parts store. Too much will lock the calipers too. Those guides are the part in question.

Actually, now that I think about it, your rear calipers have probly been locked for some time, which causes excess heat, glazing, and warping. You'll probly need new guide pins, as well as resurfacing your rotor.

As for the pads, you need to check them. If theyre smaller then the scraper distance from the metalic portion on any pad, then you need new pads. If not, then you can find a FLAT piece of concrete and resurface the pads by scraping them on the concrete. This removes the glaze.

I never thought to check my guide pins. That's badass. If that works I'll be one happy boy.

I remember hearing tibbychick talking about her e-brake cable being bad, and that's what I always assumed was my problem. If it's just the pins, that makes it easy.

J3R0MY

new new slotted rotors went on last week. im in the process of getting pads. do they sell HAWK at any local auto parts stores you know?

once again, pics man. my profession is not brakes.

Mad_john

you guys know there is a 12mm adjustment nut on the ebrake to set the tention and the #of clicks' you want. you will have to remove the center concel to do that adjustmet. as for the calapers going out BS i have never seen that in my life..