DIY: Lifting X3 suspension
01-21-2015, 06:05 AM
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Vehicle: X3 Sprint, S-Coupe Turbo
DIY: Lifting X3 suspension
This DIY will give you a one inch lift at the rear of a 98-00 X3. You can apply the technique and probably the same dimensions to the rear of early X3s, or to the front of any year X3, but please measure before you cut. This will cost you about $20 and a couple of hours to complete.
MAKING THE SPACER
I couldn't find any commercial spacers available to fit an X3. I fished around bunnings until I found these trolley wheels for $9.50 a piece.
1. Unbolt the metal wheel center and discard it.
2. Mark out a 75mm diameter hole. If you have a drill press and a perfect-sized hole saw, go ahead and cut it out. Instead, I drilled about 30 holes in a circular pattern, and hammered out the tattered remains.
3. Use a sanding bit with a dremel to smooth the inside diameter to the desired size. The rubber is vulcanized already so it won't burn when you take a dremel to it. Here is a pic before sanding.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove your parcel shelf, rear speakers, and fabric strut tower covers.
2. Loosen - but don't remove - the the 19mm bolt that sits on top of the damper shaft.
3. Chock the front wheels, jack up the back of the car, and remove the back wheels.
4. Remove the brake line clip, and separate the brake line from the damper body. Undo the two 17mm knuckle bolts, the three 12mm top nuts, and remove the strut from the car.
5. Install spring compressors, wind them down far enough to leave at least an inch of clearance between the top of the spring and the top hat.
6. Remove the 19mm damper shaft bolt, and withdraw the metal top hat, rubber spring seat, and bump stop/dust cover from the damper. Now would be a good time to brush out any gravel from the drain holes in the lower spring seat - I also polished a few rough spots on the damper shaft to try and look after the damper's inner seals.
7. Insert the spacer between the metal top hat and the spring seat.
If you were going for a lift any higher than one inch, it'd pay to glue the spring seat, spacer, and top hat together so they always keep the correct orientation. With a one inch or smaller lift, the metal top hat can still keep the spring seat centred so you can skip this step.
Installation is a reverse of removal. Don't be an idiot like me and forget to install the dust boot or you'll have to start over.
Before is on the right, after is on the left.
I took it for a test drive afterwards, and the ride quality at the rear became noticeably firmer, although not uncomfortable. It sure helps to reduce understeer in sweeping corners and roundabouts.
MAKING THE SPACER
I couldn't find any commercial spacers available to fit an X3. I fished around bunnings until I found these trolley wheels for $9.50 a piece.
1. Unbolt the metal wheel center and discard it.
2. Mark out a 75mm diameter hole. If you have a drill press and a perfect-sized hole saw, go ahead and cut it out. Instead, I drilled about 30 holes in a circular pattern, and hammered out the tattered remains.
3. Use a sanding bit with a dremel to smooth the inside diameter to the desired size. The rubber is vulcanized already so it won't burn when you take a dremel to it. Here is a pic before sanding.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove your parcel shelf, rear speakers, and fabric strut tower covers.
2. Loosen - but don't remove - the the 19mm bolt that sits on top of the damper shaft.
3. Chock the front wheels, jack up the back of the car, and remove the back wheels.
4. Remove the brake line clip, and separate the brake line from the damper body. Undo the two 17mm knuckle bolts, the three 12mm top nuts, and remove the strut from the car.
5. Install spring compressors, wind them down far enough to leave at least an inch of clearance between the top of the spring and the top hat.
6. Remove the 19mm damper shaft bolt, and withdraw the metal top hat, rubber spring seat, and bump stop/dust cover from the damper. Now would be a good time to brush out any gravel from the drain holes in the lower spring seat - I also polished a few rough spots on the damper shaft to try and look after the damper's inner seals.
7. Insert the spacer between the metal top hat and the spring seat.
If you were going for a lift any higher than one inch, it'd pay to glue the spring seat, spacer, and top hat together so they always keep the correct orientation. With a one inch or smaller lift, the metal top hat can still keep the spring seat centred so you can skip this step.
Installation is a reverse of removal. Don't be an idiot like me and forget to install the dust boot or you'll have to start over.
Before is on the right, after is on the left.
I took it for a test drive afterwards, and the ride quality at the rear became noticeably firmer, although not uncomfortable. It sure helps to reduce understeer in sweeping corners and roundabouts.
