Deep Cryogenic Tempering for rotors
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Joined: May 2002
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Vehicle: 02 Elantra
Deep Cryogenic Tempering for rotors
I have just about given up on finding rotors that are manufactured with slots only for the 01-03 Elantra. I am going to put some effort into finding a company to do the cryogenic treatment on the stock rotors. I am also going to make sure Hawk is the best choice for pads with rotors that are put through this treatment. And last I am going to look at the feasability for brake cooling ducts. The reason I am going to this effort is because I want to take the car on a road course but don't want the brakes to fail after two laps.
So far it looks like the process only costs about $25 a rotor and has an excellent record of preventing rotor warpage.
So far it looks like the process only costs about $25 a rotor and has an excellent record of preventing rotor warpage.
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ive put my tib through 6 back 2 back 2 minute autoX runs with full lockups from 80-30 on a strate away and i have yet 2 warp a rotor... why are u warping them so easily... now pad wear is another issue but no rotor warpage here
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 315
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Vehicle: 02 Elantra
Autocross is not the problem my rotors are fine now also from doing that. Try taking you car to 100 and braking as hard as you can to 50mph a few times and see what happens. I want the brakes to be able to handle the conditions a road course will put them under since I may try to go out on a couple this summer. The last thing I want is brake failure at the end of a 100mph straight.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: parkville, md
Vehicle: 1997 accent L
I believe DBA (Disk Brakes Australia) sell slotted rotors in stock sizes for many hyundai's...
No opinion on pads, but you should really look at getting a set of pads just for track use. That way you can run a more heat-resistent pad as compared to a street car setup. I suggest ATE Super Blue (or Type 200) brake fluid, its got a wet boiling point of 400 degrees, and a dry point well over 500. Not sure the actual specs off the top of my head.
As for the cooling ducts, it should be a relatively straight shot from the front bumper to the wheel well once you cut a hole in the fender lining. Just aim the ducting that the center of the caliper.
No opinion on pads, but you should really look at getting a set of pads just for track use. That way you can run a more heat-resistent pad as compared to a street car setup. I suggest ATE Super Blue (or Type 200) brake fluid, its got a wet boiling point of 400 degrees, and a dry point well over 500. Not sure the actual specs off the top of my head.
As for the cooling ducts, it should be a relatively straight shot from the front bumper to the wheel well once you cut a hole in the fender lining. Just aim the ducting that the center of the caliper.
