holeshot69

Hey guys I'm shopping or brakes at the moment and not sure who I should go with. My brakes are right shot warped rotors and nothing pads. My ebrake is perdy stuck too so I'm going to swap that out as well. What I do for times like this is turn over every stone in the situation. That in mind I'm looking for rotors, pads,lines, and fluid. I think that will cover about every thing, is there other were and tear peices involved?

Now the shopping part. Im looking into the BSE combo kit eventhough the GB is over. Now rotors and pads, Hawk, Brembo, Rotora who should I go with? Wanting to go atleast slotted as I've heard about the drilled cracking.

I like to go with the popular brands so I looked into the Brembo and Rotora right away. Find front rotors from Brembo. But I found all rotors and front pads from Rotora!?!?

Then fluid, unfourtunetly poor ole tibby will have too deal with winter again. Should I even bother too get a better fluid? I'd like too if it's availible but freezing is something I don't want to risk.


Any info would be very much appreciated. By the way will be for a 16 inch wheel, Konig feathers are on the list. Also I have a 98 Tib and about 80% sure they are captive still researching that!

Thanx all!

optimoprime

i will suggest going with rotorpros rotors, hawk or EBC pads, stainless lines with some pensoil dot3 fluid.

other then that if you truely are looking for more stoping power then you can go with the xg350 BBK. thats
xg350 calipers and pads
2004+kia spectra rotors
that will get you up to 2 pistons calipers with larger rotors too in the front. then match with a rear set of rotorpros rotors with nice pads. you shouldnt need anything more then that and its OEM upgrade so you could find the calipers in the yard and you would just be at buying rotors/pads.



BUT if your captive still then the first thing to do is get uncaptive set up!

01steve

just a little note-... even though they are not performance based brake pads, duralast from auto zone come with a lifetime warranty.

let me dumb it down a shade, buy them one time and never buy them again. you take your old worn out brake pads into autozone and they replace them for free. *check on exact conditions with the store!

i know they have a "gold" line of brake pads but i am unsure if they have the same warranty. i'd imagine they are better quality.

majik

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=23510 - rotors
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=22845&hl= - Stainless Brake Lines

I've had Rotorpros Drilled and Slotted for about 80,000 miles. No warping, no cracking, no breaking (but good braking).

You won't have a problem with drilled unless you're doing heavy auto crossing and you buy crappy rotors. If you don't like the idea, go slotted only, or slotted and dimpled as many people do.

I've got Wagner brake pads, I like them. If you really want to get down and dirty, you can do the upgrade posted in that same thread. Just get some new calipers and buy the Rotorpros rotors and pads. The thing you have to worry about is the 16" wheel clearance, not sure how that factors in but I would think it'll clear.

Rotorpros can order Captive rotors for you as well. I believe there have been 3 group buys from Rotorpros on this website. I've never heard of their rotors breaking or warping. If you have specific questions, you can contact Rich at the e-mail in the thread.

Do you auto-x? Do you drive the Tib hard? Do you need a BBK? How many miles are on the Tib? Do you think you'll ever need to replace the rotors again, especially since the stock lasted 9 years??

optimoprime

i work at autozone and i use the duralast gold series on my fronts and i'm really happy with stoping power, plus there is almost no dust from them either. the lifetime warrenty means you only spend the money once and you can just take em back everytime you need new pads. as long as the pads are worn evenly, they wont replace pads because you have warped rotors or a broken caliper.

01steve

yeah yeah yeah, but not everybody checks/cares-... but i guess it had to be said somewhere.

i've brought some back that looked like handicapable ramps, they replaced them w/ no issues.

optimoprime- no need to send out bulletins to the other autozones, just keep it quiet-...please???

i know first hand that stopping is important, but i heard brembo is really really expensive. wouldn't it be overkill at that point? i'd rather spend that kinda money making my car faster. plus a bbk might just slow you down just from the extra rotational weight (even when not braking).

majik

you're right about the BBK slowing you down...

You haven't shown me any reason to get a huge brake kit. Just get some nice looking, good quality slotted rotors and good brake pads. No need to go high end, you just need it for a daily driver

Alex01tib

Yah people dont realize that a BBK actually will take longer to stop your car than a stock rotor caliper set with good pads.

Reason being is the extra inertia caused by the heavier rotors increases stopping distance, and will make you accelerate slower for that matter.

ALSO alot of the track only brake pads need to be warmed up to the proper temperature before they give full peformance

If you have enough stopping power with upgraded pads to lock up the wheels you can stop no faster unless you get lighter rotors or remove alot of weight from your car.

The reason for BBK's and such is to prevent brake fade for autox and track racing.

BUT On topic, go with some stock sized D/S rotors and hawk pads, they are incredible, and some SS lines if you want quick brake response

If you plan on doing some serious AUTOX or other track racing where youll need lap after lap after lap after lap of unfaded brake, then you will be fine with the aforementioned setup

BTW, take some time when you write your title, its "where" not were, and to not "too"

holeshot69

^^ Sorry alex that I missed.

Im not looking for a bbk that is too far for what Im doing. I like the rotor pros idea, I am correct in thinking they sell pads and rotors that can take a good beating. Im not doing auto X but I do drive my car hard. I'll already have HKS springs/ KyB struts and some n/a mods for a little extra.

The stainless lines I am getting for sure and fluid I 'm going to try for a worthy aftermarket company.

Now for that captive swap I will need new wheel bearing all round correct? Then the rotors and what not. If I do need new wheel bearings then I would consider this. But for now I can get the captive rotors from rotor pro's.

Thanx for the help all, keep ideas coming.

zoned019

Here's a cheap set of rotors NEW

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry314761