Chassis foaming
12-19-2011, 02:27 PM
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Chassis foaming
Anybody ever heard of this?
http://www.autofoam.com.my/
http://www.autofoam.com.my/
How Can AutoFoam Improve My Ride & Handling?
AF when injected into the chassis will expand & fill up the cars hollow structures. AF with its specific densities will then ...
A) Strenghten & Stiffen the cars structure and improve Torsional rigidity.
This will then drastically reduce chassis twist & flex. A stronger chassis will also transfer more energy away from the cars body. Thus you will enjoy...
~ Tighter & Tauter Ride.
~ Sharper & more Agile Handling.
~ Reduce Body Roll & Hop.
~ Improved Steering Response.
B) Seals off hollow sections, NVH ( Noise, Vibration, Harshness ) is blocked out & absorbed.
~ Absorbs road Vibrations & Harshness for a drastically improved Ride.
~ Blocks out Noise, Dust & Moisture.
~ Absorbs Structure Borne vibrations & noise for a luxury comfort.
~ Helps reduce Body, Drivetrain Creaks & Groans.
What a Rigid Chassis does for You?
The cars chassis, or the skeleton of the car, is often an overlooked area when it comes to enhancing one’s ride. However it is something that can be easily felt, experienced & contributes significantly to a cars overall driving behavior & characteristics.
Today's cars utilizes a Monocoque design that shapes the vehicle. A Monocoque chassis is made by spot welding several pieces of stamped components together to the pressed Floor-Pan.
The rule of thumb is the more rigid the chassis, the more Superior the Handling characteristics, better Ride Composure and a Safer car.
A stiffer chassis, in term of torsional as well as traverse & lateral rigidity allows the suspension to react quickly in any given situation as well as allow the suspension to work as the designers intended, providing the driver with better vehicle control & safety. This also translates to a much improve steering, cornering and handling characteristics & high speed stability.
The stiffer chassis will have a higher natural frequency thus making energy imparted to it by bumps less likely to excite the body's structure. As such, a stiffer non-flexing chassis transfers more force on to the suspension where it can be dissipated by the Springs & Shocks instead of transferring the force to the occupants. Benefits are a more comfortable, composed & quieter ride.
AF when injected into the chassis will expand & fill up the cars hollow structures. AF with its specific densities will then ...
A) Strenghten & Stiffen the cars structure and improve Torsional rigidity.
This will then drastically reduce chassis twist & flex. A stronger chassis will also transfer more energy away from the cars body. Thus you will enjoy...
~ Tighter & Tauter Ride.
~ Sharper & more Agile Handling.
~ Reduce Body Roll & Hop.
~ Improved Steering Response.
B) Seals off hollow sections, NVH ( Noise, Vibration, Harshness ) is blocked out & absorbed.
~ Absorbs road Vibrations & Harshness for a drastically improved Ride.
~ Blocks out Noise, Dust & Moisture.
~ Absorbs Structure Borne vibrations & noise for a luxury comfort.
~ Helps reduce Body, Drivetrain Creaks & Groans.
What a Rigid Chassis does for You?
The cars chassis, or the skeleton of the car, is often an overlooked area when it comes to enhancing one’s ride. However it is something that can be easily felt, experienced & contributes significantly to a cars overall driving behavior & characteristics.
Today's cars utilizes a Monocoque design that shapes the vehicle. A Monocoque chassis is made by spot welding several pieces of stamped components together to the pressed Floor-Pan.
The rule of thumb is the more rigid the chassis, the more Superior the Handling characteristics, better Ride Composure and a Safer car.
A stiffer chassis, in term of torsional as well as traverse & lateral rigidity allows the suspension to react quickly in any given situation as well as allow the suspension to work as the designers intended, providing the driver with better vehicle control & safety. This also translates to a much improve steering, cornering and handling characteristics & high speed stability.
The stiffer chassis will have a higher natural frequency thus making energy imparted to it by bumps less likely to excite the body's structure. As such, a stiffer non-flexing chassis transfers more force on to the suspension where it can be dissipated by the Springs & Shocks instead of transferring the force to the occupants. Benefits are a more comfortable, composed & quieter ride.
12-19-2011, 02:46 PM
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Nice concept, but without some real independent testing I strongly doubt that this stuff is rigid enough to help. I was hoping for some carbon or metallic super advanced foam, not basically the same stuff carpenters use to fill cracks.
12-19-2011, 05:45 PM
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It does work and it's been around for a long time. But, you need to really THINK about application. For example, let's say you're going to do the "sports" application
Those areas in blue(side sills) are where people/shops often run wires for aftermarket stereo/gauges, etc. The factory also runs wires there. If you seal that in with foam, you'll never run a wire in there. You'll also never be able to get to the stock wiring that's in there if there's a wiring problem!
While it does stiffen the chassis somewhat (using the higher density foam), it also adds weight. So do the benefits of the more rigid body structure offset the 15-50lbs of foam you add to the car(assuming you do the whole thing)? Chances are YOU will never be able to tell. A pro driver, might. But there are other places to add/spend money to make the car handle better that can offer more tangible results without the weight penalty.
If you want to make your car QUIETER...and eliminate all squeaks and rattles...that's one way. You could do it with Dynamatt or similar products for about the same money..and about the same weight penalty. The advantage the 'mat' material has is that you can use in inside of doors. Can't do that with foam (unless you don't want to roll your windows down!) You can also use "mat" material on floorboards. You wouldn't want to foam your entire floor!
If you are doing a pro car for audio...then yeah, it's a decent. When you're pushing 150DB+, every bit helps, and it prevents anything from vibrating/rubbing due to extreme sound pressure waves. (ever hear someone's license plate or sunroof rattle because of a sub-woofer? multiple that by 100)
I personally wouldn't consider it for a "performance" modification unless it was a full spec race car, and the car was well under the minimum weight for the class. Then adding the foam/weight wouldn't be that big of a deal. You'd be looking at adding ballast weight anyway. But this foam (and weight) is all far from the CoG of the car. So the weight is where you DON'T want it to be for a good handling car. You'd still probably be better off saving the 15-50lbs in foam and using that as ballast weight closer to the CoG of the car, or moving that weight to the trunk/rear to move the CoG of the car farther back from the engine, and get it closer to the center of the car. But again, you'd need to be a pro driver and do back/back test to really see if you could notice the difference. In 'stock' racing classes where modifications are very limited, the foam may be allowed, and may be your only option...but is it worth the weight penalty? You'd have to ask a pro racer!
CoG = Center of Gravity
Those areas in blue(side sills) are where people/shops often run wires for aftermarket stereo/gauges, etc. The factory also runs wires there. If you seal that in with foam, you'll never run a wire in there. You'll also never be able to get to the stock wiring that's in there if there's a wiring problem!
While it does stiffen the chassis somewhat (using the higher density foam), it also adds weight. So do the benefits of the more rigid body structure offset the 15-50lbs of foam you add to the car(assuming you do the whole thing)? Chances are YOU will never be able to tell. A pro driver, might. But there are other places to add/spend money to make the car handle better that can offer more tangible results without the weight penalty.
If you want to make your car QUIETER...and eliminate all squeaks and rattles...that's one way. You could do it with Dynamatt or similar products for about the same money..and about the same weight penalty. The advantage the 'mat' material has is that you can use in inside of doors. Can't do that with foam (unless you don't want to roll your windows down!) You can also use "mat" material on floorboards. You wouldn't want to foam your entire floor!
If you are doing a pro car for audio...then yeah, it's a decent. When you're pushing 150DB+, every bit helps, and it prevents anything from vibrating/rubbing due to extreme sound pressure waves. (ever hear someone's license plate or sunroof rattle because of a sub-woofer? multiple that by 100)
I personally wouldn't consider it for a "performance" modification unless it was a full spec race car, and the car was well under the minimum weight for the class. Then adding the foam/weight wouldn't be that big of a deal. You'd be looking at adding ballast weight anyway. But this foam (and weight) is all far from the CoG of the car. So the weight is where you DON'T want it to be for a good handling car. You'd still probably be better off saving the 15-50lbs in foam and using that as ballast weight closer to the CoG of the car, or moving that weight to the trunk/rear to move the CoG of the car farther back from the engine, and get it closer to the center of the car. But again, you'd need to be a pro driver and do back/back test to really see if you could notice the difference. In 'stock' racing classes where modifications are very limited, the foam may be allowed, and may be your only option...but is it worth the weight penalty? You'd have to ask a pro racer!
CoG = Center of Gravity