Screwdriver

When I called Hyundai to get an estimate on parts + labor for the Captive -> Non Captive Swap, I received a quote of $900 for parts + $800 labor.

If you go to a junkyard, it will cost you $200-$300 for the parts plus labor.

Instead, here's what I did:

1) Purchase a 5-7mm wheel spacer

When you put this on, you will find that the captive bolts protrude above the spacer. This is because the captive bolts are almost 9mm long.

2) Machine the lip of the captive bolts ONLY. Find a specialty tire shop (NOT a chain like NTB/Pepboys etc) and have them machine the lip of the bolts. This way, the integrity of the bolts is maintained and you shave a mm or two off. Make sure that you level the head of the bolt and nothing more. Those bolts hold the assembly together, so DO NOT machine them any further.

Now put the spacer on and make sure no part of the bolt protrudes from the spacer. This is best done by touch and sight.

Now, put your rim on and bolt it up. You'll find that the lug nuts fit nearly as well as they do on the rear tyres minus a couple mm.

This is the best trade off for the buck. I previously had 10mm spacers on the car and was concerned that the nuts didn't have enough thread (although I had no problems). With 5-7mm spacers, the car is 100% safe and feels more precise as well. Now, I can stick with my good ol' shitty captive rotors and still have nice rims.

Hope this helps.

long

spacers aren't a good idea though. i had spacers before.

its an okay fix for now but you should still get it changed or buy rims that fit w/o changing. ive had two pairs of rims that fit no problem with no spacers.

Screwdriver

I drive 60 miles a day at speeds ranging from 20-80 mph. No problems with these thin spacers.

Anything more really affects driving characteristics. So far, these are fine.

The best option for someone without captive friendly rims.

'treezy

I have spacers and I am fine (at high speeds autcross, lond distances --i.e. Seattle-Arizona, etc.)

Good quick fix for DIY-ers.

My question is:

What about swapping rotors on captive set-ups? How do you remove the calipers from the wheel hub and when you do the entire assembly will come apart correct? so wheel bearing need to be replaced too.

I'm thinking I might just find junked non-captive wheel hubs and swap the entire sheet out.

AND, when ordering rotors. what is the physical difference in the rotor from a non-captive rotor and a captive rotor?

Dmitry

there are 2 bolts that holds caliper to bracket and 2 bolts that holds bracket to hub.



non captive rotors are held on the hub (between hub and wheel). Captive rotors are screwed from the other side of the hub (that's why it's PITA to change them, you need to pop out bearings to change rotors mad.gif )


Also swapping to non captive will make it much easy to go with big brake setup.

OzFxCoupe

I measured my old captive bolts to stick out 7mm. My old 8mm spacers cleared the bolts with no problems. Mine weren't hub-centric spacers though & there was always the worry in the back of my mind that the spacers could be a safety issue. They're also illegal over here sad.gif

I would recommend the swap. I did this just last week for a total cost of $100AUD. I just got the complete non-captive assemblies from the wreckers, removed the calipers that they came with (as mine are already painted red) & swapped them over myself. There was a fine layer of rust on the rotors but that was gone after a couple of hours of driving around. I probably should've had the rotors machined but so far everything seems fine thus far.

Patreezy, removing the caliper from the assembly does not make the thing come apart. As Dmitry said, there are just 2 bolts holding them onto the assembly.

For those of you wanting to do the swap, when calling the wreckers/junkyards, sometimes they don't realise that Elantra assemblies are the same as the ones on our Tiburons... Make sure you ask if they have Elantra assemblies too!

supry

Spacers are good for performance, wider wheelbase, but they will kill your balljoints. By moving the wheel out further you are changing the moment that is put on the hub and you are placing more torque on the balljoint. Alot of Auto-Xers will put spacers on just for the race, then take them off for daily driving so that they won't have to keep replacing balljoints.

Mad_john

900 for parts that bull shit why dont you ask me... i live here dog

Zman

Ihave a question though, will ball joints suffer more from installing a 8mm spacer, or let's say by installing a different rim of 17" and 20+lb weight?
Because I think light rims with spacers could be the same as OEM rim fitment with heavy a$$ rims.

majik

offtopic.gif
Screwdriver: I'm awaiting response for your rotors. E-mail has been sent. Will hopefully have answer and everything for you by late tonight, if not sooner.