Brakes super soft after timing belt and water pump?
10-06-2010, 08:33 PM
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Brakes super soft after timing belt and water pump?
I've been prepping my car to sell it. In the last few days I've put in a new thermostat and water pump, new timing belt, aftermarket motor mounts, new drivers side axle, new spindles/hubs, new horn, etc. etc.
After having just swapped the water pump and timing belt, I drove the car (when it still had the bad axle and bad bearings/hubs. I had to swap the voltage regulator on the alternator because it got messed up and was putting out 28 volts. This in turn killed the relay for the started two different times. It'd crank the motor, and then a little while later try to crank it again, and the relay would be dead. Obviously I was cooking that relay before I managed to fix my alternator. So I borrowed a Headlight Relay, and I think the AC Con relay to move to the starter position. That's all I did. I had the car up on jacks for two days.
After getting it good to go after that work, and knowing I had more to do, I drove it to work yesterday. The brake pedal goes all the way in and hardly slows me down. Once I press it again once or twice I can feel the pressure build up. Now I know I have a pretty blown rear left brake line (old POS stainless line) On the other side in the rear the line is ok, and the front are both back to stock since they blew a long time ago. My cost on stainless lines to replace all four is only 63 bucks, so I'll do that soon when I have the coin.
But what the hell? How does any of that above have anything to do with the fact that one day my brakes were doing fine, then after some motor work and electric issues, my brakes need to be pumped to be worth a damn? At first I was thinking I'd changed a relay that said something about brake booster, but there isn't one, so that's not it. The brake fluid wasn't all low either? I topped it off today, bled the front brakes, but nothing different at all?
Sorry for the story, just figured all the facts should be in here. Thanks guys!
After having just swapped the water pump and timing belt, I drove the car (when it still had the bad axle and bad bearings/hubs. I had to swap the voltage regulator on the alternator because it got messed up and was putting out 28 volts. This in turn killed the relay for the started two different times. It'd crank the motor, and then a little while later try to crank it again, and the relay would be dead. Obviously I was cooking that relay before I managed to fix my alternator. So I borrowed a Headlight Relay, and I think the AC Con relay to move to the starter position. That's all I did. I had the car up on jacks for two days.
After getting it good to go after that work, and knowing I had more to do, I drove it to work yesterday. The brake pedal goes all the way in and hardly slows me down. Once I press it again once or twice I can feel the pressure build up. Now I know I have a pretty blown rear left brake line (old POS stainless line) On the other side in the rear the line is ok, and the front are both back to stock since they blew a long time ago. My cost on stainless lines to replace all four is only 63 bucks, so I'll do that soon when I have the coin.
But what the hell? How does any of that above have anything to do with the fact that one day my brakes were doing fine, then after some motor work and electric issues, my brakes need to be pumped to be worth a damn? At first I was thinking I'd changed a relay that said something about brake booster, but there isn't one, so that's not it. The brake fluid wasn't all low either? I topped it off today, bled the front brakes, but nothing different at all?
Sorry for the story, just figured all the facts should be in here. Thanks guys!
10-06-2010, 09:38 PM
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Seems like that should be it, I just dont know where to look. Where's all the stock vacuum line connections? I know I jacked the passenger side of the engine up when I swapped the pump, so maybe something came undone?
10-06-2010, 09:50 PM
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Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
I don't have a Beta, but I would look at the purge valve and brake booster vacuum lines, then start tracing any hose leaving the IM.
