My girlfriend's car (00 tib, 57k miles) needs new brakes. She'll just be driving on the street, around town mostly, some highway, but she's picky about her brakes and wants something that grabs nicely, and is very responsive.

So far I have this on order:
Goodridge SS lines
Hawk Performance Ceramic pads (F&R)

Just going to replace the rotors while we're at it, probably dimpled/slotted, or maybe just slotted. Who do you guys suggest? Anything else we should look at doing while we're in there?

We'll also flush the brake fluid, might use some ATE superblue if I have enough left over after doing my car, or just some generic dot3/dot4. How much fluid does the tiburon system hold, ie, how much do i need to have on hand to flush the system? Is there a particular order to flushing the system, or is it the standard start at the farthest from the master cylinder & work your way in?

Any other suggestions/tips welcome.

It's not going to see any track use or any real aggressive driving, so I think a big brake kit would be overkill, just looking to freshen up the stock system with a few improvements.

Thanks in advance,
Chad

 

Don't get drilled rotors, the stress concentrations on holes like that are terrible. Go slotted or slotted/dimpled.

 

ya, i've seen it one too many times, not at all interested in drilled rotors

 

Let me tell you that if she wants something that grabs nicely, and doesn't drive the car extremely fast, go with something like a brembo blank rotor, no slots, dimples or drills. This will give her the best bite when compared to the other available performance rotors. If she isn't getting the rotors hot enough to cause fade, then definately get the blanks, as the other rotors are designed to reduce fade. If you get drilled/dimpled/or slotted rotors, you reduce the contact area between the pad/rotor, causing the driver to have to push the pedal harder to stop in the same distance. Trust me, I know this from personal experience.

However, if she is getting fade, then go with slotted rotors, they will last a long time compared to drilled rotors which are prone to cracking due to excessive heat cycling from street driving.

The pads and lines are top quality, they are what I run (hawk hps).

As for flushing, get at least a quart, maybe 6 pints, that should be plenty.

Start bleeding at the RR wheel and then work your way closer to the master cylinder. RR, LR, RF, LF.

Good luck!

 

I use brembo rotors and the goodridge ss lines with some cheapo pads, and works wonderful.

 

its weird. i've had drilled and slotted rotors since i ran that group buy on here like 4 years ago, no cracks around any of the holes.

 

^^^If they are of high quality and the holes are cast into the mold instead of drilled through a blank, they will not crack.

The korean 12" bbk I have has no cracks either.

Just saying for his g/f she would be better off with blanks to reduce the required pedal pressure.

 

just brembo blanks, which is what 99% of the rotors on ebay are. and i know people used to say drilled holes are cast into the rotors on like wilwood rotors and stuff, but im fairly certain all drilled rotors are actually drilled after being cast. i know they machine the rotors after casting, so it makes sense to me. it's tough to be really precise with casting, then you can have off balance rotors and shit which is not fun.

simply put, if you go with drilled, just make sure you check them every once in a while.

 

Any particular vendors that are trusted and/or give club discounts?

 

run a search on here for rotorpros. i know a lot of people went through him.