Here's the pics, they are very straight forward. Who's gonna be the test rat?



No need for a new hub and tons of work, just bolt on and go.

http://www.babomall.com/rd/index.html?pg=d...=wt&cb=wt_3

 

Hi Chris, I don't know if you are importing them/selling them, and this is the first time I've seen them, so I have no experience with them, but what I can tell you (and any of the other members here) is that I bought a set of spacers just like them, to have my wheels stuck out a little bit.
I was not too sure about this desing, since its fixing the "new hub" to the OEM and then fixing the rim just trhough the new bolts attached to this new hub...
The result was that every 2 weeks the spacers MOVED, and I was very accurate on the install, I torqued every single nut to about 15% over the specified torque for the wheel nuts...
and it still became loose. The first time I doubted myself, that I had done something wrong, but after the second time I just took them out.
Since then they have been lying on the garage floor, I just won't sell them to any member here, I wouldn't do that to a fellow RDtibber.
So this isn't anything against you, it's just that these might not be save; my guess is they are designed for trailer queens and not real performers.

 

I'm not selling anything, so by all means bring more info to the thread if you have any. I just saw these on a site this morning, and wanted everyone else to get a chance to see what I did.

Now my first question to you then, would be the brand you bought? For Example, I have probably the biggest spacers I've ever seen, bolted to the back of my RD2, with regular small spacers up front. This is because of the monstrous fender flares on the car, and it makes it look quite a bit better than without. They're not conversions, just 4 lug spacers, but they've never loosened or anything, and I beat the hell outta that car.

Second, would be a question about how you used them. Did you use 4 lug to 4 lug conversion, 4 lug spacers, or 4 lug to 5 lug conversion. All three are different, but I figured we could at least clarify for the members here. If you didn't use this brand, or do a 4 to 5 lug conversion, I'd really really like to see what these things are like in person. I was really close to having a company here in Socal make us these, and then I saw these pics and tripped out today.

 

100% agree that our cars look much better with the rear tires thrown to the sides... too much fender flare (actually it's more like too little wheel offset).

Yeah, your right, I left out some important information, I used the spacers Ksepc sells (I bought them from them), they are the 4lug to 4lug type, as you can see on their website.
I understand you use just the spacer and longer bolts? (this is what I want to do)

Actually, I suspect the cause for the problem is that in the 4lug t 4lug spacer, you first fix the spacer to the OEM studs with the new nuts (the flat ones that come with the spacer), and that seems to be the problem, because in order to have them plain not to protrude from spacer face, the nuts seem to be too thin... and also, the whole in the spacer leaves not to many "meat" where this new nut applies the pressure. The rest (fixing the wheel to the spacer) has no problems.

But I made throughly inspections with a gap gauge (the kind you use to check spark plug gap) and when I dismounted the spacer and fixe it, there was no gap, but after more or less a week of use, a small gap begun to appear... it frightened the hell out of me so I took them out after less than a month of usage....

Do you (or any member for this matter) know if still could use these spacers but just with longer studs? (like ARP or custom made)

 

I would run scared from any suspension/wheel component that kept coming loose on me. I have no clue about those bro. I know mine are Eibach, and they're perfect even when driving through the hills or canyons here in Cali.

I wonder how these 4 to 5 lug spacers are. If they loosen the same, I'd freak out. Fortunately, we just went from having about zero options on moving to 5 Lug wheels, to two options at least. These, or some variation of these, as well as doing the GK rear hubs, and 2nd Gen DSM front hubs slightly shaved down on the shaft. When I have some money saved up, I'm for SURE getting a set of stupid nice Volks with a huge lip, lol.

 

i would never buy those. actually i would never buy a set of spacers like that either. most of that crap isn't even tested, just made for all the people that they know will jump at it.

the spacers i just got made are HUGE, but they will not have to have 8 different studs. i just need to get longer, stronger wheel studs and i will be golden.

Zman, did you try using some lock tite on the threads? which part was coming loose? the part that bolted the nuts onto stock studs, or the extension bolts?

the way most of the companies make the spacers just leaves room for way too much slop. and with any of those style i would recommend a good lock tite job on EVERYTHING.

those could be good, or they could be complete junk, i have no clue, but i would never buy a spacer/conversion like that.

also, no matter what brand any of these are, they all would work the same. as long as the nuts are the right pitch, and they slide over the studs, thats the only thing needed for these style spacers to work. i really don't understand how they are coming loose if they are torqued down all the way.

the best option for the conversion is to do this right and not mess around with janky spacer/conversions even if they did work decent.

i wouldn't have even gotten my spacers made, but i like my rims too much, and don't wanna spend 1500$+ trying to find a 17X9" rim, lol..

heres my spacers, just for reference.

 

Holy cow batman! LOL I didn't know you were going that big socks. Your going to need like 5" Wheel studs for something like that lol. I'm using 3" studs and thats just perfect for my 1" spacer. You have to consider the spacer, so that takes 1" off the stud, plus where it presses in the hub, that takes off around .5" also the wheel bolting on which takes around .8", than to be safe, the wheel nut needs to be threaded on the stud one as far as the circumference of the inside of the wheel nut.

 

Well, the part that was coming loose was the spacers to the hub... I mean, the nuts that adjusted the spacer to the OEM studs... the wheel was perfectly attached to the spacer... that's why I thought the problem where the new nuts, however, I didn't want to try neither loctitie nor anything else... I just got scared and took them away. My reasoning was that maybe I could just get longer studs and use them with those spacers, but in the way you will be using yours, I mean you just "sandwich" the spacer between the wheel and the hub, but the torque goes from the OEM nuts to the replacement longer studs...

Oh, and your spacers look awsome SOCKS.... hitit.gif
Now all you nned to do is get them on a kit and sell them here... saevil.gif

 

heh, the parts i get made will be one offs..

yeah, i figure i am going to need about a 3.25" shank for the stud.. i found some really nice ones, for 80$ shipped. .they aren't ARP but have the same tensile strength. That leaves

they are from a late model vette. they have a 3.25" shank, .315" knurl depth, and a .509" knurl diameter. so they shall fit, i hope, lol.