zoned with 724 posts you should know wink1.gif , you cant have both performance and comfort.... leaning towards 1 of those qualities minuses from the other quality...

add comfort, subtract from performance handling, and vice versa

unless you do a whole lot of expensive custom work, and even then a performance oriented suspension will still handle better

if you want minivan comfort, you have to get a minivan... tiburons supsension is performance oriented, part of the reason why hyundai had porsche help to design our suspension....

 

Eh. Just b/c Porsche aided Hyundai in how to go about setting up their suspension, DOES NOT mean you've got the same suspension setup as a Porsche. It's just Porsche-tuned...which doesn't mean much, b/c other large companies do it to their cars as well.

 

I agree there.. I have owned a couple of Porsches... the torsion bar suspended ones (everything previous to the 993 or about the year 1995) rode VERY hard.

 

Speaking of porsche suspension and ride quality, i couldent find a Hyndai stabelizer link, and wanted to spike up abit of my ride to be even stiffer and harder and not as shakey (youd think it would contradict itself but no): so what i did is i got a Porsche Stabelizer links for my suspension, its just like putting a strut bar on heh, i only did it for the front so its easier to bring the rear around now, better oversteer. Its its more comfy though. Im not sure what model it was though, it might have been a 356 Porsche.(kinda like my dads old one, heh, as u can tell my families been through lotsa cars, even a Masserati once, but that was my uncles he was a stunt man and he used that car for some stupid movie that never even got made heh)


(ils 1: the long verticle bar is the stabelizer link, the one in a tib is significantly shorter.)

 

if you only used ONE endlink Kit.. chances are you are preloading your swaybar. Kind of dangerous really.

 

nobody answered that yet^^ 02.gif

 

^^ Slotted/drilled eally don't make too much difference brake distance wise, they really only help in keeping heat down. You really see the difference between stock and aftermarket on a road course or when your hard braking a lot.

 

it is a trade off.. you are getting rid of any dust/gas build up from between the pads and the rotor.. but you have less rotor surface for the pads to clamp to. I personally think the gas control and the ability to shed heat a little faster more than offset the lessor amount of brake surface.. especially if it allows you to go to a more sticky pad.

 

Unless you are making frequent hard braking at speeds over 100-120km/h, it is useless, even worst than a full disk.

A solid disk has the most contact susface for your pads.

A slotted disk allows faster evacuation of brake dust to ensure a good pad/disk grip. Reduced contact area. In order to generate exessive brake dust that require an extra evacuation capabilitie, you need to make frequent high speed braking.

A drilled disk allows for bettre disk cooling. Reduced contact area. In order to generate exessive heat that requires an extra cooling capabilities, you need to make frequent high speed braking.

If you drive around town most of the time, under 100-120km/h, the sacrifice of contact surface is not worthed. You would actually stop faster on a 70-0km/h with a full disk than with a slotted/drilled rotor. Most people use them for the bling bling factor wink1.gif

 

I will be the first to admit that I bought the slotted rotors because I thought they looked good. The fact that they were also an increase in the kind of braking I do was equally important. I like bombing down winding roads, sometimes I am on the brakes AND the gas at the same time to help bring the rear around. At that time, any extra cooling and dust evacuation is a good thing.