RD1 F2 EVO Restoration Project
#1
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Vehicle: 2000/Hyundai/Coupe F2 Evo
RD1 F2 EVO Restoration Project
now i've finally got to the bottom of why the engine wasn't stopping when the key was turned off i can now crack on with this project. The plan is to strip the underneath and do a nuts & bolts type restoration on it with a few mods along the way. The car has been standing for a while and with the UK 'damp' weather our cars tend to rot from the bottom up, will update this thread as i go...
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Vehicle: 1999/hyundai/tiburon
#3
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Vehicle: MC + RD2 + AW11 + 944 = 4x Win
Magic in a can. Doing this for the few metal bit I'm keeping on the MR2. You think Hyundai's rust? Try a Toyota just once
#4
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Damn...that thing looks like it was submerged in a lake of salt water for a few years. Good luck with your restoration! Got a lot of work ahead of ya but I bet it'll look great when you're done. Dont forget to check inside the quarter panels, doors, and rocker panels. Rust can build up inside them pretty easily too.
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Vehicle: 2000/Hyundai/Coupe F2 Evo
por15 will be my weapon of choice when the time comes,will be dropping the sill covers next job to see how bad it is behind them and then go from there.
Will be checking inside quarter panels etc and rust proofing the heck out of it.
Will be checking inside quarter panels etc and rust proofing the heck out of it.
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Vehicle: 1997 RD 4-door
typical yikes!! my j2 has the same problem, only less severe but has a hole in the rear subframe member, rusted drum backplate and reappearing rust on the p/r quarter panel cause i brushed the rust off with a wire wheel instead of grinding it off..when i slapped the bondo and paint.
i'd either drop the whole rear assembly and apply rust reformer or rust mort or get busy with an angle grinder and a box of 3M roloc pads and repaint with primer and any zinc rich paint.
i'd either drop the whole rear assembly and apply rust reformer or rust mort or get busy with an angle grinder and a box of 3M roloc pads and repaint with primer and any zinc rich paint.
#7
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Vehicle: 2000/Hyundai/Coupe F2 Evo
typical yikes!! my j2 has the same problem, only less severe but has a hole in the rear subframe member, rusted drum backplate and reappearing rust on the p/r quarter panel cause i brushed the rust off with a wire wheel instead of grinding it off..when i slapped the bondo and paint.
i'd either drop the whole rear assembly and apply rust reformer or rust mort or get busy with an angle grinder and a box of 3M roloc pads and repaint with primer and any zinc rich paint.
i'd either drop the whole rear assembly and apply rust reformer or rust mort or get busy with an angle grinder and a box of 3M roloc pads and repaint with primer and any zinc rich paint.
i'll be dropping the subframe, petrol tank and all suspension components along with brake & fuel lines and taking it back to bare metal (where appropiate), i'll use the por15 pre-paint stuff as it acts like etch primer and has a high zinc content aswell. Also plan to replace nuts and bolts with stainless ones.
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Vehicle: 1997 RD 4-door
sweet, hope your project goes progessively and smoothly..also..keep an eye out for the hole on the unibody frame rail that is above the exhaust tip..water and steam from muffler tend to erode the framerail..like it did to mine.
keep us posted with pics!
keep us posted with pics!
#10
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When dealing with cars twice as old as their owners, it is not unheard-of to take the entire body and have it dipped by a professional in a vat of nasty stuff that eats everything but the steel. All rust is gone, and you can see what exactly needs repair. That's an extreme and probably expensive thing to do, but if you find more rust than you expect AND you consider it a historically-significant-enough car, you might consider it.
first hit on google http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php
first hit on google http://www.metaldipping.com/faq.php