I purchased a huge turbo a holset bc1 turbo off a cummings turbo desil for like 20.00 bucks yes 20.00 pluse a pinaple whip D problem is I was told it spooled at 3800 rpm off the line on a 2.2 litter and i have a 2.0 so I was told rebuilt and all it should spool around 4 mabey a little over or under is there any way i could get it spooling quicker mabey in the manifold design or free flowing piping (no cat)? I was also thinking like a 25 shot of nitrous that kicks off as soon as it starts building boost Good idea??? I know i could get ceramic ball bearing conversion done but i would rather not pay 800 bucks for it unless its a last resort. or would i just be better of getting a smaller turbo ( I would just like to keep this one as it is in excellent shape almost no shaft play at all. And because it so f'n huge D)

 

use a low shot of nitrous to help spool the turbo, then have the shot back off via a progressive controller. as you come into full boost. As for not wanting to spend the $800 or so, you will spend that much on the nitrous and controller.

 

The question is, why do you want a turbo that big? I'm assuming this is something the size of a Turbonetics 60-1 or T04H with a bigass 1+ A/R on the compressor side.

Something that large will likely be WHOLLY out of it's efficiency range on a 2.0L engine without a lot of money spent on building the engine to withstand 30+ pounds of boost (at 900+ cfm)

Howabout you sell it to a ricer for $50 and get another turbo? smile.gif

 

Why would i need a prgressive control couldnt i just use a pressure activatd switch that when it hits say 10lbs it disconects the nitrous(turns it off)? The turbo is capable on a 2.0 of around 45lbs boost but I only plan on running 15 to 20. I also kinda want to keep it as I will still get good gas milage as long as i dont build boost. But is there any way to make it spool faster with the manifold desighn or piping?

 

Ok, you don't seem to understand.

All turbochargers have an efficiency range. You must pair the power you want with the motor you have to find the turbo that you need. The turbo you have there for $20 is probably efficient between 25 and 35 pounds of boost at somewhere between 600 and 800cfm. Anything outside of those numbers is an exponential dropoff...

If you only want to spool this thing to 15psi on a daily basis, this is ABSOLUTELY the wrong turbo to use. Period. End of story. Unless your power goal is a full-race 600WHP setup, this isn't what you want.

Consider the vehichle this came from (originally) and then explain to me how your 2.0L is going to match it. What kind of torque did the original motor create? How much displacement did the original motor have? What kind of boost pressure could it withstand? Being a turbodiesel, it was probably 8 liters of love and probably could eat 45 pounds of positive manifold pressure without blinking, while creating around 1000 pounds of torque to tow around 25,000 pounds of 18 wheeling action.

Gee, can you find the differences here? rolleyes.gif

 

I understand efficency ratings blake discused this (the guy i bought it off) I know that i should use something small but i want the possibilty of 25-30lbs boost later on. The turbo came off a 92 dodge cummings turbo disel 6 litter i belive. Blake bought and had it running 12lbs boost for a daily driver and it spooled at like 3800rpms on a 2.2 litter honda prelude coustom manifold, the turbo has a SPLIT TURBINE HOUSING INTAKE (is that right?), thats what he belives let him be able to run it and when it did build boost there was no watching the needle rise it just shot from 3lbs to 12 in a tenth of a sec cool thing to watch and feel. At the track he would rev the motor to 3g's and then take off about 30 feet off the line is when he spooled. He is helping me build the turbo kit up but I was wondering if there would be a way to get it to spool at 3500 to 4000 like i said good gas milage is my main goal i want to be able to still get my 22-24mpg but be able to blow mustangs and camaros off the road.

 

Given the lower volumetric efficiency, lower redline and abysmal exhaust pathing of the Hyundai J20 engine versus the Honda H22 engine, you will likely never pull it off.

If he wasn't spooling until 3.8K on the tach, while using a custom manifold, a split exhaust housing and a full compliment of parts available, then you will not make it either.

Heat and air movement is what makes a turbo spin. You have no more heat, and you have LESS air movement due to lower volumetric efficiency and lower displacement.

Wrong turbo, period.

 

Dont believe our word, do the compressor maps on this site: www.turbofast.com.au You'll see how HUGE that turbo is for your car. IT WONT WORK unless you have a full race setup.

[ September 03, 2002, 04:34 PM: Message edited by: skierd ]

 

Should i try trading it in for a diffrent turbo or will it not be worth anything? Like i said its in realy good conditin very very littl play at all didnt even have any till I cleaned everything up. What could it sell for? And where should I try to sell it? And what size do you guys think I was thinking t3/4 or somthing around that like i said I would liketo push 15 for daily and 20 for race then possibley bump it up to 25-30 for race later on.

[ September 03, 2002, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: tibinprog. ]

 

I think the biggest problem here is that you're thinking in terms of "boost" rather than actual power.

Think about this: You have two straws, one is a big fat one from McDonalds, the other is a little skinny bastard used for a coffee stir. You pump those suckers with 20psi...

Which one flows more?

If you had your thinking cap on, you suddenly realize that boost pressure is relative. Just because you're running 20psi doesn't mean you're making a lot of power. A TD04/12a at 20psi is nothing compared to a TD06/20g at 20psi.

Howabout you decide what kind of POWER you want, and then we can help you.

[ September 03, 2002, 07:27 PM: Message edited by: Red ]