Well, the factory ECU wires are fuxed and I don't remember what the hell I did before. The fuel pump won't come on and I've got 3 wires on the ECU harness side without any loose pins on the connector. wtf? :dunno: So, guess I'll go straight to the Haltech. Other than that, I think I'm good to go.

Still working on it...



Tim gave me a killer deal on is old Haltech and Ksports:





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Wiring going ok so far. Hopefully the computer connection will too.



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Check the ground from the tank to chassis, had this prob with my civic,just ran a new ground from the tank to the frame and she powered up....Good score on the coilovers,you'll love em !

It was grounded ok, just not receiving power. Now that I'm installing the Haltech, I'm rerouting the power wire. When I touched it to positive, the pump started right up, meaning it still has the proper ground.

After running fuel thru the system, I noticed a small leak out of both ends of the rail. I had used two new summit 3/8" npt fittings. Normally I wouldn't use thread sealant on the fitting. Worked fine with the last fittings. After noticing the leaks, I tried to back them both out and had a very hard time doing so. By the time i got them out, I saw that they had both stripped the threading off! Fuuuuu! Tried to rethread the rail a bit more and use tape, but that didn't work either. So I said f-it and jb welded them to the rail. I hate doing it this way, but I don't feel like spending another $20 on fittings and waiting for them in order to proceed.



I'm wondering if these summit brand fittings have something to do with it. Never had this problem before with the rail and other fittings.

Sap Jon---good to see you back at it. Quite frankly, I haven't been on here much in over 2 years. What got me was a series of events. First, killing one turbo. No big deal, time to upgrade. Killed the stock rods 2 months later. No big deal either as I was pushing 330 whp on a untouched bottom end. I had a built engine on a stand with custom tubular divided exhaust manifold bolted to a GT40R.



Boy did it get fun when it was finally time to drop it in. 6 PSI and 250whp. LOL After the tune and break in, it sat around 415 whp on 18-20lbs of boost. Broke a axle, broke another axle, broke another axle and than said forget ET streets. Went back to drag radials, bunny hopped all over the place and was getting walked on. Went back to ET streets plus shelled out 800 for new axles. Tuned to 25-27 PSI, broke transmission. New stock tranny went in, broke it after 2 weeks. Said forget FWD and bought 3.8 Gen coupe. Sold the whole engine and turbo set up probably was around 480-495 whp. Tib now sits in the garage collecting dust, with a stock 1.8 on a crate next to it. Bunch of all parts just sitting truck. Oh well-----this isn't to discourage you but thought it was relevant as you left for similar reasons I did...no matter how much time and money was spent, it still broke and I gave up on making a FWD dependable. I would need to spend another 3-5k on tranny to hold the power.



Hope you finish and enjoy as I do miss it---let me know if you need any help.

Good to see you here Tanc. Yea, I definitely left for the frustration, but after moving to other vehicles and seeing my friends build 400+ engines, it's not any different with the Tib. They all break down and require massive amounts of money. The only thing that is now keeping me in it is the money and work I've already dumped into it, and the drive to have something different.



Wheelhop is a big killer of axles and transmissions. Same thing happens with Hondas and all imports, which is why the first thing they do is build traction bars. I plan to build me a set very soon after getting the car running. Also, the stock diff is like glass, but I bought a quaife long ago. Did you have either of these? What part of the trans did you break?



If I keep breaking gears and continue to stay focused on this, I may shell out the $5k on a custom dogbox. Besides, I don't think there's any Hyundai tranny that will allow you to run 150+mph in 4th, unless you go with a 26" or bigger slick.

I haven't updated you all on my Monster Energy can upgrade. :biggrin:





Just got done building the aluminum shelf for them. One is the radiator overflow for the new halfcore, and the other is a catchcan that's lacking $120 in AN fittings and hose. It may be a few weeks before I finish that off. Shouldn't need 1" of ventilation quite yet.





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^^^ sweet :beercheers: