Ok, I got a 02 Accent w/ plans on going turbo...
For fuel an ignition, I have a SAFC an MSD DIS2.
I want to run 8psi street, an when I go to the track I wont to be able to run 12psi safely...
An I dont like CELs
What do you experts think? Stay with my current set up? Get a stand alone unit ( i want to stay within the same price of a safc+msd + no more than $200usd) The car has a returnless fuel system, but I plan on making it a return.
320cc injectors, FD(rx7) fuel pump, safc, msd dis2...the current items i have for fuel an spark.

[ March 22, 2003, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: QS ]

 

safc runs about $200 and then anmsd runs abotu $300-$400.


So thats Around $500. I would still look into a haltech. Even without a map, it will run better with the mafs.

 

First thing. Take that 8psi and 12 psi and throw it out the window. Don't base your tuning decisions on a boost target, base them on HP.

Next, unless you lower your stock compression, you'll have problems running with a turbocharger.
What are you going to do about lowering compression?

Your 02 Accent is a returnless fuel system. What are you going to do about beefing up the fuel pump delivery to match your turbocharged engines increased fuel needs?

Answer those questions first, then worry about safc/msd/haltec...etc..etc..etc...

 

Don't want to sound like the smart *** , but basing a FI setup on hp or boost are both stupid; the things you want to base your tuning for a daily-driven car are safety and reliability; if you get lower hp readings than you thought but you have a 100% reliable and safe car, it's still better that way, believe me.

I'm sure that's what Random meant anyway smile.gif

 

No actually Random meant horsepower...

If you tuned for nothing more than safety and reliability, a simple turbo project would be $4000. We're not going there. The original poster was VERY obviously basing his performance expectations on some mythical link between boost and horsepower, and it doesn't work that way.

If you shoot for 200 wheel horsepower, which is basically a 100% increase from stock, you are going to need a LOT of work. If you're shooting for 150 wheel horsepower, the work required is a lot less.

The work that you do and the way you do it will net you safety and reliability, but "tuning for safety" is going to do different things. You tune for the power you want, and the WAY you construct the system is what gives you the safety.

 

Im looking for 140hp daily driven, then when I go to the track I want 170+/-
The 8psi an 12psi I mentioned before equal out to the HP quotes I got from other turbo'ed Accents...Thats why I just stated I wanted to run 8 an 12.
The compression is high but with proper tuning, an "safe" levels of boost its "do-able" Scrud has ran up to 14psi on his stock internal/compression motor. Lobert was running 8psi, both daily street drivin...
Fuel needs, I have 320 RC injectors, a fuel pump from a RX7, looking into a boost sensitive FPR..
An converting the car back to a return system.
(1.5L Accent Gas Tank, an Tibby OBX fuel rail)
Now for 700-900 USD, what would be best for my application? Stand alone, or my current safc-msd set up...
Thanks, sorry for the confusion!

 

We're saying the same thing then; I did not say to NOT HAVE or FORGET about an hp goal. I said that when you shoot for a specific hp, you shouldn't want to attain that hp goal against all odds. Obviously, a safe and reliable 175hp car is a lot better than a soon-to-explode 210hp car, even when you originally shooted (meaning that you planned for it, and thought you'd have the good parts/tuning for it) for 210hp.

 

Okay, I think were all in agreement then, and we can get back to the topic at hand.

I would point you towards a Haltec E6K, or PerfectPower SMT-6 (if anyone has gotten the ignition side working). Haltec has dropped the prices of the E6K, so $900 is doable, if you can do the install yourself. You'll still need to get it tuned, but you would have to do that with an SAFC/MSD as well.

I would steer you towards the MSD DIS-2 Programmable rather than the base DIS-2 if you are trying to stay cheap. The DIS-2 Programmable has a built in map sensor to do boost sensative ignition retard, the normal DIS-2 does not. But...it's another $100...and that puts you closer to the price of a Haltec....

Since you are converting over to a return based fuel system, you shouldn't have any worries. I would NOT use the RRFPR, but keep the Fuel Pressure relative to boost at a 1:1 ratio like a normal FPR does. Do the tuning with the S-AFC, not with a RRFPR. It might require you to use 440cc injectors rather than 320's, but you'll have more flexability, and leave room for upgrades later.

 

Ok, so do away with my current setup of the SAFC an MSD DIS2, get the stand alone(Haltech) got site I can view an buy from?...
IF I do keep the SAFC an MSD, don't use RRFPR but just a regular FPR?
I feel that if I stay with my stock ECU with the two piggy back systems, Im going to be having a lot of cels, mainly because of the switch from returnless to return....
Now, what about the E-Manage? Isnt this a stand alone? But you can use a piggy back unit such as a MSD to control the igniton??

Thanks guys!

 

I've heard of decent results with the e-manage, but I don't know of anyone who has it working on a Hyundai. (same story with the SMT-5/SMT-6)

With the S-AFC/MSD solution, since each piggyback is doing a different function (one fuel, one ignition) you do have more chances to screw something up for a CEL or worse, but, that's the disadvantage of trying to go cheap.

I don't know that anyone has gotten any ignition system working in piggy back mode with our Hyundai ECU/Coils OTHER than the MSD units. The folks who tried the SMT's couldn't get the ignition side to work.

I know Shadohh was looking into a E-Manage, he might have more details for ya there.