SpoolinShark

The engine bay portion of the build is pretty much done and ready to go. The main thing I'm waiting on is getting my PNP MS harness made so I can test fire the car.





Added studs to the valve cover to use a K series COP setup











Valve cover swapped out and general shot of the bay. Finally got around to installing my Greddy Type FV BOV











Bolted on the fenders and headlights











Hood installed and closing properly. Had to massage a portion of the hood that was above the radiator cap, but other than that everything lines up and has decent clearance.

tibbytib

Wow, your COPs look fantastic! Very curious as to what parts you used and what exactly was needed to fit them to the valve cover. I'm looking to possibly do this as a small winter project this year. When we wired in the Haltech, I ran extra wires to accommodate the extra signals.



What 4 channel igniter are you going to use out of curiosity? Where and how are you gonna mount it?

SpoolinShark

K series cops are smart coils and have the igniter built into them. That and my MS unit was built to control a cop setup so I don't need any extra hardware.

SpoolinShark

This thread has been pretty quiet here lately. That and it's been cold in Ohio so I haven't been touching the car much. We had a slight warm spell last week so I took advantage of that and added an intake for the turbo.





4" coupler, piping and K&N filter











Everything assembled and in place. The engine bay is pretty tight so this was the best place I could get the filter to sit

JonGTR

Newer Toyota and Honda coils have internal ignitors, which gives them the name "smart coils". You do not need to run anything else between them and ECU. Just run individual leads to each coil making sure you also run clean power and grounds. Don't screw it up or you could burn out the ECU on startup.



You mount them the same as I did. I believe Dave did the same. Drill the cover and tap with studs. Then tighten down with acorn nuts. You may need to provide additional reinforcement on the backside of the stud/cover since it's only plastic. I just dabbed some jb weld.

tibbytib

Thanks John! Totally gonna look into these this winter! Definitely having spark blow out at only 15 psi, so the tibs oem ignition system is pretty much maxed out. Dave's old engine breathes EXTREMELY well! It's a good problem to have!!

SpoolinShark

We used panel bond on the studs to hold them in place so I highly doubt they'll ever move.



I know Jon did the research on the dwell time for the toyota coils but I haven't looked to see if the k series ones are similar. As far as I know, I'm the only one using these cops at the time.

JonGTR

I have you tried to gap down the plugs? Gap them down slowly until you hit the sweet spot.

tibbytib

Interesting. So did you still drill the valve cover and then bond the studs, or did you literally bond the studs to the surface of the valve cover without drilling and tapping holes?? I'm assuming you used 3m panel bond, 2 part epoxy?



Jon- yep, they are gapped quite a bit lower then stock. I believe I'm down to 22 thousandths. I know I can go lower, but just feel I'm getting in the range of putting a band aid on top of another band aid. COPs are a great way to go, I have the standalone that can handle em ( Haltech Elite), they will allow me to run a near stock plug gap for better combustion, and, well, they look bad ass!!

SpoolinShark

We drilled holes in the valve cover and ran the studs up through it from the bottom. After that used panel bond on the stud heads on the underside of the cover to hold it in place..



Basically same thing that Jon ended up doing.