alice6

I'm using a smaller belt that will pull the alternator farther away. It's a beta 1 with a beta 2 valve cover

Stocker

To clarify: you used a set screw with a hole in it as a restrictor in the air pressure signal path to the MAP sensor?

alice6

Yes. It acts as a sort of shock absorber for the signal, it still lets the average value through but keeps the fluctuations out. I got the idea from a miata forum if I remember correctly.



This explains in more detail what I'm on about. It's a NASA article on pneumatic attenuation. The hole I drilled is approximately 1mm, and I'm still getting a bit of resonance in the map sensor line so I'm thinking it's still too large. I need to find something softer to drill through though, these hardened set screws are a pain to drill through with these tiny bits.

alice6

No need to worry about the map signal anymore, I could not get stable AFRs. Fuel trims would look fine for a few days then suddenly start dumping fuel in to the point where I was getting rich misfires. I built a megasquirt 2 and am running the MS2Extra code and will be running it in parallel with the stock ecu. There was a lot of helpful info on this site that helped me get it set up, and I'm definitely learning a lot more with the megasquirt than with the FIC. I ran new wires for all the sensors, I've had issues with shorts in the stock wiring and wanted a fresh start. The FIC is still in the car but is not really doing anything. I want to make sure I can get everything to work right before I pull it out, I do drive this car on the street so getting past emissions will be tricky. Has anybody on here hooked up the stock knock sensor to a megasquirt? Right now I've got an audio cable hooked up to the stereo so I can listen for knock, but having a datalog would be useful.

JonGTR

I'm glad you went with the Megasquirt, but I don't know of anyone left still using it. I only recall two that got it working fully. Most of the builds around here now are using Haltech.



That's strange about the FIC and MAP sensor. I wonder if it was a bad FIC.



The alternator will have a short life span. If you purchased one with a lifetime warranty, you can just trade them in every few months. Or build a nice heat shield.



Other than the ECU, you're pretty much ready to go right? It's a shame that the tuning is always the biggest roadblock for us all.

koreancorvette01

Still here..... megasquirt and all.

alice6

I can't believe it's been this long since I've updated this, but I guess better late than never. The car is running pretty well, I used an OBDII scanner and a go-pro to get an ignition base map set up, which helped quite a bit in the low load regions. I've been very happy with the megasquirt thus far. I still think my injector dead times are off, but not too dramatically. I added an electronic boost controller, but I couldn't seem to get it to work, so for now I'm running the mechanical one set at 11psi. I also added knock control through a knocksensems module, and that has been working brilliantly! I get the feeling my turbine housing is affecting my upper rpm timing limits though, as I have to pull timing above 5500 rpm to avoid knock. Does anyone know of the top of their head if the 63ar housings have the same mounting position as the 48's? I wouldn't mind changing it out as long as the downpipe doesn't need to be changed. Which, by the way, hasn't seemed to affect the alternator. yet.



Oh, I also added an additional catch can to help vent pressure from the crankcase, attached to the back of the oil pan.



I ended up replacing the power steering pulley back to stock as well, pretty much by necessity. The obx pulley I had on there had worn down pretty far. The water pump pulley is doing just fine, so I'm debating whether or not to get another set. Power isn't really an issue anymore! This year I'd really like to focus on the suspension.

03tibe85

GT28 housings are all the same bolt patterns. Swap away!!