wow this is ridiculous. new clutch and she is still slipping
 

well like topic says im going nuts because of this. so i bought this new tib and it the clutch started slipping. no problem i have my beta2 engine/tranny and it has clutch in there. so i swap it in.... well i forgot that engine needed a clutch so i run it till it cant go no more and i get an autozone valeo brand clutch with lifetime warrenty because i'm stick of paying for clutches every year. so i put that in with a new flywheel and SOB!!! this brand new clutch and brand new flywheel are still slipping.



now i had a buddy helping me and he cracked the slave open to re-attach it when we put things back together. i never actually finished the job which is a bit of me being lazy but that has more to do with the clutch disengauging then it does with it slipping when fully engauged and under load.



is it maybe that i got a bad disk? did i cause some fluke with the slave mess?? anyone had this happen or know of it happening and what to do? i'm just going nuts with this car

cant a really out of adjustment pedal cause some slipping issues?

So you have a new clutch kit and new flywheel? There is no reason for it to be slipping unless maybe the clutch cover wasnt tightened down quite enough, ive never had a clutch slip with just NA power, even a stock one will hold a little boost.





Pretty sure he has a hydraulic clutch so the pedal is not adjustable I dont think

check your master cylnider, lines and slave cylinder.

You didn't use any grease anywhere did you

You can adjust the pedal, it is on the master cylinder. Watch this little tuorial, but the like the Dragon boy said... did you over abuse the use of grease on teh TOB, i have seen people go heavy and grease winds up on the flywheel.



In case you dont know, a very easy way to see if your clutch hydralics are setup correctly, you can do this quick check....



Undo the slave cylinder from the fork lever, grab the little part on the end of the slave cylinder, then you SHOULD be able to push the slave cylinder push rod into the slave cylinder and it should slowly rebound, do that several times, this is also a way to reverse bleed all the air bubbles out of the line... Then if you CANT push it in your push rod travel is off!



Check this video





My link

didnt use any grease. so thats is what is crazy to me. i didnt torque down the cover this time but it only calls for like 12lbs or something. i made sure to clean off the flywheel with brake cleaner also.



i'll doubld check the slave just to be 100% that isnt it before i tear the whole thing down. but damn this is getting old real quick and its right around 15-20F so its just a little cold out there.

Did you check the hydraulics like I said... You throw could be so far off, it is keeping it from clapping down all the way.

"now i had a buddy helping me and he cracked the slave open to re-attach it" huh? well,you obviously have air in there then..I ve had my tranny/clutch in/out dozens of times and have never "cracked the slave open to re-attach it"..

Check your bracket on the shaft to the TOB and make sure there is a little bit of play while the clutch is released.

Pull the pin if you have to and make sure the slave or none of the assembly is holding it partially disengaged.



If you have air in the line you would/could have a problem with the clutch not disengaging totally when you push the pedal

but not a slipping problem when engaged because you have a pull system and not a push. The PP is going to do all the work squeezing the clutch disk tight. The only way the slave cylinder or linkage could be involved in a slipping clutch is that the linkage is binding or something and not letting the PP relax.



Air is compressable and fluid is not.