tranny rebuild and new clutch??
okay i finally got my lazy a$$ to the dealer and my 2nd gear is getting taken care of...the syncro was shot....they suggested putting in a new clutch...just curious if its a necesseity or just a preventable maintanece??? if i get a the clutch should i go for an after market clutch?? kore or some other one?? the dealer quoted me i think like 350 for the clutch...and since they already have the tranny out...there is no labor for the clutch
i can get the kore clutch for like 360 or something....??? any ideas??? how much hp does a stage 3 old?? i plan on going turbo in the next year or so.....but who knows! thanks
i can get the kore clutch for like 360 or something....??? any ideas??? how much hp does a stage 3 old?? i plan on going turbo in the next year or so.....but who knows! thanks
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
The Alpine turbo setup is basically 70% more HP. For that you would need a stage 2 or 3. To be safe, the stage 3 would be the safer bet, especially if you want to up grade the kit later.
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
with less flywheel inertia, you have to use the clutch differently. Slower. With a heavier flywheel, you can be sorta lazy with the clutch and let it out fast, and rely on the flywheel and the gas pedal to keep the engine going. With a lightweight flywheel, if you try that, the engine will die.
So you basically have to learn how to shift a new car. The engine will be very responsive to throttle input with the clutch pushed in, so you need to feed it less gas, and do it slower. The clutch will 'grab' the special mating surfaces of the fidanza flywheel very easily, and this will have a tendancy to stall the motor if you don't do it slowly, and give it more gas than normal.
Once in gear, the car will accelerate with much more authority, but there will also be much more engine braking. Coasting down a hill with your foot off the gas will actually decelerate you much faster. So you will have to learn how to be 'fluid' with the throttle and clutch application to keep the car from jerking durring deceleration/acceleration.
I'm giving you a worst case senario here, it's not as bad as I am describing, but you will have to get used to it...almost like learning to drive a new manual tranny car. It won't "respond" to clutch/throttle inputs like your "old" tibby did. So keep that in mind.
Also, new clutches and new flywheels need to be broken in. Don't plan on racing/stressing the clutch for the first 500 miles.
So you basically have to learn how to shift a new car. The engine will be very responsive to throttle input with the clutch pushed in, so you need to feed it less gas, and do it slower. The clutch will 'grab' the special mating surfaces of the fidanza flywheel very easily, and this will have a tendancy to stall the motor if you don't do it slowly, and give it more gas than normal.
Once in gear, the car will accelerate with much more authority, but there will also be much more engine braking. Coasting down a hill with your foot off the gas will actually decelerate you much faster. So you will have to learn how to be 'fluid' with the throttle and clutch application to keep the car from jerking durring deceleration/acceleration.
I'm giving you a worst case senario here, it's not as bad as I am describing, but you will have to get used to it...almost like learning to drive a new manual tranny car. It won't "respond" to clutch/throttle inputs like your "old" tibby did. So keep that in mind.
Also, new clutches and new flywheels need to be broken in. Don't plan on racing/stressing the clutch for the first 500 miles.



