Push conversion and pics plus old clutch with shimmed insert
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon Turbo
Push conversion and pics plus old clutch with shimmed insert
I just took a few pics of my progress of the push clutch conversion, and a few pics of my attempt to step a a fidanza flywheel. The fidanza obviously cant actually be stepped so I used a thin sheet of aluminum cut out in the exact shape of the steel insert and placed it behind it . This mod made a pos XTD 6 puck clutch hold for a year running in the 12's. when the previous XTD didn't last the break in period. They sent me a replacement for free so I figured Id try something with it and it worked good. The only set back to this mod was I needed all the pedal I could get to release the clamping force with the mod. The pedal is at full throw , all the way out. Here is a few pics of the XTD w/ 0.050 thick aluminum cut out added to Fidanza insert.
As far as the new Push clutch goes it installs the same as a regular clutch for the most part. Thanks to Denisst99 @ Atelier HP.
This tranny was made to have this conversion done. Thanks hyundai! lol Here are a few pics of the new clutch and setup. This is the 4 puck ACT clutch ---> MB3-XTG4
As far as the new Push clutch goes it installs the same as a regular clutch for the most part. Thanks to Denisst99 @ Atelier HP.
This tranny was made to have this conversion done. Thanks hyundai! lol Here are a few pics of the new clutch and setup. This is the 4 puck ACT clutch ---> MB3-XTG4
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Vehicle: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon i4
Sweet this will be my next mod once I destroy my Valeo XTRM kit, thanks for the pics...some people only talk about mods (like the return fuel system conversion) and never post pics.
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no problem. It worked good besides having to adjust the pedal throw under the dash once you get it right it will hold awesome. I actually did a no no and put it in last year and took it to the strip and raced the next day with no break in and it never slipped. It lasted the whole drag season. My 12.77 was on the XTD 6puck last year and after that trip it finally started to slip . When you first do the mod you my have a little bit of friction between the throw out bearing and the clutch disk itself but only if you go with a sprung clutch "see first pic w/ the old clutch disk and look at the spring plate it has noticable wear from throw out bearing contact". Unsprung with this mod will net you the best results, no rubbing at all. just shitty city driving do to hard engagement.
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon Turbo
So Far REGIT its just like stock feel . Its truley glorious! I got the Alternator relocation kit installed too. I can post some info on t to but its pretty straight forward. Let me know.
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Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
glad both the clutch and alternator parts worked fine for you ;-)
i don't include instructions with them because once you got everything in hand it become obvious where everything goes
for the alternator relocation i zip tie the bolts in place so there`s no confusion
for the clutch the XT pressure is on the sliff side, liek you found out you need to raise the cluthc pedal stopper and lengthen the adjustable rod for the master cylinder
in some case i had to redril the clutch lever hole closer to the pivot point by about 0.375 to 0.500 to get more clutch travel from the same cylinder stroke (you need to slot the slave cylinder holes so it can be aligned properly with the lever)
this does give more travel but makes the pedal much stiffer
btw, look at the push conversion tread in the atelier hp section i put some pictures of what to do with the cushioned clevis that goes on the pedal lever
removing the rubber inside helps a lot with travel also (wihtout extra pedal effort)
i don't include instructions with them because once you got everything in hand it become obvious where everything goes
for the alternator relocation i zip tie the bolts in place so there`s no confusion
for the clutch the XT pressure is on the sliff side, liek you found out you need to raise the cluthc pedal stopper and lengthen the adjustable rod for the master cylinder
in some case i had to redril the clutch lever hole closer to the pivot point by about 0.375 to 0.500 to get more clutch travel from the same cylinder stroke (you need to slot the slave cylinder holes so it can be aligned properly with the lever)
this does give more travel but makes the pedal much stiffer
btw, look at the push conversion tread in the atelier hp section i put some pictures of what to do with the cushioned clevis that goes on the pedal lever
removing the rubber inside helps a lot with travel also (wihtout extra pedal effort)