Help needed urgently with tranny/clutch problem
 

hey guys, i got a bad problem and need a lil advice b4 i go to the dealer tomorrow.

2000 5-speed,
one year old, and 30k miles, 10 k of those on a dealer rebuilt engine. the tibby is my first stick. i never really "mistreated" my clutch per se. during driving upshifting1-2-3-4, and downshifting from 4-3-2-1, if i didn't hold my clutch to the floor for like 3 seconds each shift, my gears would grind.
during the past day or 2, i could feel a "different" feel to my clutch, no more grinding or less, just different.
I drove to my g/f house tonight, and as i was getting close, i d/s from 3 to second and my clutch didn't grab, on the way home later on, my shifting felt all screwed up, the throws and positions were not what they normally were. at this point, my only useable gears are 1-3-and 5, all on the up side throws. i checked the shift lever and i didn't see anything grossly abnormal.
the engine starts and runs fine, and the clutch works gears 1-3and 5 the same way as before, i just can't engage 2-4- or reverse. its going to the dealer tomorrow morning. but any ideas or info would be helpful. i seem to thing it might be in the linkage that transferrs the "pull-back" motion to the tranny, seeing as my clutch works fine in half and not the ones on the backside. Is there a way to check the linkages, for correct functionality??? if its an adjustment that is needed, i could prolly handle it, just i have no clue to the diagnosis.

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Chris..

P.S. is there any way to adjust the piont where the clutch "grabs". I.E. making the grab point either higher or lower in the peadle travel range????

Sounds like your shift linkage screws came out, or at least one of them. They are on top of the tranny, near the back of the engine. If you have someone push in the clutch, and then row through the gears, you should see them. There should be 2 cables, and they should be affixed to the top of the tranny. If the are flapping around loose (sounds like one of them is), that would cause your problem.

This is NOT a normal problem. I am the only only person I know of to have a shift linkage problem, and it was due to the aftermarket clutch install that was done. Those bolts that hold the shift linkage were tightened improperly.

The clutch engagement point can be altered a bit, but not much. Maybe 1 inch in/out, and it is a PITA to do it.

Your clutch should not need to be held to the floor for 3 seconds between shifts to prevent gear grinding. It sound like they did not install something right when they put the rebuilt motor in at 10K miles. Definetly take it back to the dealer and have them give it the complete onceover. They should cover everything/anything. Even the clutch. There is no excuse for a clutch wearing out after only 30000 miles.

[ September 16, 2001: Message edited by: Random ]

I actually had that thought first off. but with it already being dark and no light, i put off the visual inspect till tomorrow.
Next. If it looks like there is a loose linkage, should i try to reconnect it where needed, or just set it on the dealer's doorstep. I will have the tib there irst thing in the morning. also, i assume that i should get the car towed to the dealer. She drove 50 miles home tonight with 1-3-5, but my luck something ELSE would go wrong on the 10 min drive to the dealer.
Geez, on my third motor, and now THIS sad.gif.
I looked on the boards here and at fxtreme. I saw some people with the same symptoms, but with radically different failures. anyway, i don't work on manuals, so i'll go pop the hood tomorrow morning, and put my stock intake back on too, just for good measure. Assuming it is a linkage problem, and it ends up being relativley minor. And when i tell them to check my clutch. if the clutch needs replacing, how long would that take a dealer to do?? i already know it will be a week at least for any part not in the dealer's wharehouse.
oh, one more thing, hypothetically, is re-attaching a shift linkage something that could be done by myself, me being greatly mechanically inclined, or is there special calibrations/tools needed that i wouldn't have access to?? i could live with a picky clutch for a while if i could get the tranny working, but i'll prolly just let the dealer take care of all that.

Thanks random for giving me the idea of where to look, i'll do it after sunrise.
In any case, my dealer LOVES me. so i know they will get to the bottom of it smile.gif after 2 motor replacements, and a computer, we get to know each other quite well smile.gif

I had the same problem on my tiby and it turned out to be the shift cable inside the car. The plastic peice broken and then the cable itself broke in half. They told me that is must not have been cremped tight enough at the factory. rolleyes.gif

Guiltybydesign- Damn, You are the only other person I know that had a shift linkage problem. But U R the first to have one INSIDE the car.

trypgod-
If the shift linkage is not connected in the engine compartment, chances are that bolt fell out and went bouncing down the roadway. You would not be able to fix it unless you have a ready supply of various bolts you can try till one fits. If it is the shift linkage inside the car like above, then there is really no way for you to fix it yourself.

Third motor? You did state that the dealer put in a rebuilt motor after 20,000. When did you have problems with the other two? Do you remember what the problems were that lead to replacement/being rebuilt?

well, this morning i looked and had my mom work the stick inside. The movment/travel of the mechanism did not feel normal as same as last night, BUT the internal linkage/lever mechanisms appeared to function correctly, just not the same feel as before. On the tranny, both linkages were connected to the tranny. when my mom ran through the gears, one cable made the tranny linkage move foward/back and the other linkage made the connection float up and down. Both cables looked secure and they all moved into each gear.

About the engines.My first replacement was at approx 8K miles. Me and my brother were prototyping an electrical forced induction setup. Lets just say on the first full power test, i had to slow down suddenly, and we had not factored in a boost pressure release mechanism. motor ran lean, detonated to all hell...etc. I take tibby to the dealer and cut them a check for the longblock assembly, they install it and the tibby is running.

bout 3 months ago, i was messing with cai building, and i had a nice one that i liked, and during a heave rain down here we got a lil water standing on the streets, a big 4x4 truck barrels through the water next to me and pushes a wake that floods out my cai and hydrolocks the engine...etc, insurance shortblocked my engine and i got raped by my deductable. that was bout 10 or 11k miles ago, been running fine since then, although my clutch had been getting hormonal, and the extended shift times...etc. i am waiting on the tow truck as we speak, and my service guy said i should prolly have news this afternoon. Lets all wish me and tibby luck LOL

Chris..

Well my shift linkage thing came apart too. The bolt was to small and they put on a bigger one.

Update..shift linkages confirmed connected and functioning correctly, my service writer stated the obvious and told me they gunna pull the tranny, so i won't have a diagnosis till tomorrow afternoon at the earliest, and possibly wed morning...My tibby is in pain and i'm not there to help her..::more depressed mutterings:: i was asked if i wanted a clutch job while they are in there.
Said either way, wether the clutch is bad or not, if i acquire the unit ge'd put an aftermarket unit on for me smile.gif my service writer and the head tech there both have tibbies and both race LOL. Anyway, i'll be by the phone, and as soon as i hear anything i'll post it here, who knows might help someone out someday smile.gif

Your service guys RACE? COOL! Make sure you refer them!

We should ship you a bunch of product catalogs for them to pass out to customers.

Most of the aftermarket clutches are rather strong for a mainly stock car. the KORE Stage 2 would probably be your best bet.