Clutch Review Thread
11-15-2008, 10:17 PM
#21
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Mods: 1.8L cam, K&N filter, Snorkus intake, stock (resurfaced) flywheel was reused.
I got the Gripforce stock replacement clutch for $100 shipped off eBay. Fast email response and 7-day order to receipt time fing02.gif
Bearing, alignment tool, clutch and pressure plate (no gun) all for $100!
it looks just like stock, but with no Valeo stamped or etched markings like stock.
I put this in when I did my auto to manual conversion so I can't say if it's better or worse, but it works and it was dirt cheap.
Also not glazed, unevenly worn, and worn almost to the rivets like the stock Valeo with 165,000 miles on it.
I got the Gripforce stock replacement clutch for $100 shipped off eBay. Fast email response and 7-day order to receipt time fing02.gif
Bearing, alignment tool, clutch and pressure plate (no gun) all for $100!
it looks just like stock, but with no Valeo stamped or etched markings like stock.
I put this in when I did my auto to manual conversion so I can't say if it's better or worse, but it works and it was dirt cheap.
Also not glazed, unevenly worn, and worn almost to the rivets like the stock Valeo with 165,000 miles on it.
11-24-2008, 07:18 PM
#22
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Vehicle: 06 suby impreza outback sport
Spec sucks ass. I apparently didn't learn my lesson and bought a second one and the pressure plate fvcked just like the first one, including my tranny. well i don't know if the clutch was responsilbe for that.
11-24-2008, 07:28 PM
#23
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^^can we get an actual review? Did it slip? how did it cause damage? what's wrong with it? could it have been installation error?
11-24-2008, 07:38 PM
#24
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Vehicle: 06 suby impreza outback sport
I've gone threw two Spec stage 1's. The first one was the pressure plate, for sure. It lasted maybe 3k miles. This one i just installed in june and i' im sure did everything right (i've done this 3 times already). But after the clutch was in it really didn't grip and the clutch pedal was smushy, i reblead it over and over, slave was still good cause it pushed back. This clutch probably had 1,500 miles on it. This time i'm having the shop do it, getting sick of it. And i'll probably just keep my car now, since people aren't drawing interest.
Before i bought my second Spec clutch i had a oem excedy and it was better than both specs.
Before i bought my second Spec clutch i had a oem excedy and it was better than both specs.
11-27-2008, 09:15 AM
#25
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mods: intake, headers, exhaust, 75hp shot nitrous oxide
The SECO clutch is a great clutch for a stock replacement. It held up well to standard driving and spirited driving. I replaced my SECO clutch and stock flywheel after a few drag races, and use of nitrous oxide, 1 year and approximately 10,000 miles, because of a warped flywheel. Here are some pictures.
Flywheel was cleaned up for examination. Notice that the flywheel displays non-uniform discoloration indicating hot spots and warpage from slipping. Also notice the original resurfacing marks on the friction area indicating minimal wear on the flywheel and resurfacability assuming deck height is within tolerance.
Clutch was cleaned up for examination, rust is from cleaning water. Notice the main body discoloration from purple to blue (see first post for original color) indicating extreme temperatures. Bushings and springs held up well with no play evident after use. Clutch displays plenty of friction surface remaining and is nowhere near metal on metal contact.
I replaced the SECO and stock flywheel with a XTD Prolite flywheel and a XTD Stage 3 ceramic 6 puc clutch including increased clamping force pressure plate and new throw out bearing.
The XTD prolite is a chrome-moly steel lightweight flywheel, which has a SFI 1.5 certification, meaning it is recognized by sanctioning bodies as a safe "clutch" for the extreme conditions experienced while drag racing when used on a nitrous oxide/supercharged/turbocharged vehicle. The flywheel comes with a spacer and if it is required on your vehicle, a pedal adjustment will be necessary to remove free play. See this thread for more information and/or discussion http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...amp;hl=flywheel
The XTD Stage 3 clutch kit is a ceramic 6 puc clutch kit consiting of a clutch, increased load pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch alignment tool. See this thread for more information and/or discussion http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...amp;hl=flywheel
Upon installation, I noticed the clutch engaged much lower on the pedal then stock. A clutch pedal free play adjustment was required. It had a alot of violent chatter and grabbing across all gears while engaging during the brake-in period. A ceramic clutch wears on the flywheel instead of the clutch, creating a new friction surface with each application. After 2 days of driving, wear on the flywheel was present but was not yet uniform across the friction surface.
After 2 weeks of driving, the clutch has broken in mostly and clutch grabbing/chatter has reduced to first gear and downshifting. There is some slight high pitched bearing noise present while clutch is engaged and under load.
I had to relearn my clutching habits to adjust for the lack of engagement slipping from this clutch. The clutch has less play between non-engaged and fully engaged. It's different from stock as the stock clutch will continue to slip even after fully engaged if revved too high for a shift and will still provide a smooth shift. This clutch will engage and snap the RPM of the engine down or chirp the tires even in 3rd gear if you do not rpm match. It may be tricky to drive for a beginner.
The engine revs quicker and feels peppier due to the lightweight flywheel. It is a good flywheel, nothing but praises. If used with a non-ceramic clutch, it may be a good idea to have it resurfaced to remove the lathe grooves.
The clutch pedal provides feedback as to the engagement point due to the XTD pressure plate. You can actually feel the friction point. The clutch feels heavier at the top of the pedal but follows through the rest of the pedal's travel. It feels springier and heavier, but it does not require much more effort then stock to push it down.
Overall, I'm thinking it may have been better for daily driving to go with a stage 2 clutch, or a stock clutch with a XTD 60% increased load pressure plate. The reason I say this is because if you're not paying attention to the engagement of the clutch, it can easily jerk you unexpectedly or wear on the flywheel too much while driving slowly. One thing is for certain, this clutch will not slip until worn out under spirited driving or my nitrous oxide setup. It seems to perform much better, act more expectedly, and is easier to use when driving at high RPMs then stock.
The SECO clutch is a great clutch for a stock replacement. It held up well to standard driving and spirited driving. I replaced my SECO clutch and stock flywheel after a few drag races, and use of nitrous oxide, 1 year and approximately 10,000 miles, because of a warped flywheel. Here are some pictures.
Flywheel was cleaned up for examination. Notice that the flywheel displays non-uniform discoloration indicating hot spots and warpage from slipping. Also notice the original resurfacing marks on the friction area indicating minimal wear on the flywheel and resurfacability assuming deck height is within tolerance.
Clutch was cleaned up for examination, rust is from cleaning water. Notice the main body discoloration from purple to blue (see first post for original color) indicating extreme temperatures. Bushings and springs held up well with no play evident after use. Clutch displays plenty of friction surface remaining and is nowhere near metal on metal contact.
I replaced the SECO and stock flywheel with a XTD Prolite flywheel and a XTD Stage 3 ceramic 6 puc clutch including increased clamping force pressure plate and new throw out bearing.
The XTD prolite is a chrome-moly steel lightweight flywheel, which has a SFI 1.5 certification, meaning it is recognized by sanctioning bodies as a safe "clutch" for the extreme conditions experienced while drag racing when used on a nitrous oxide/supercharged/turbocharged vehicle. The flywheel comes with a spacer and if it is required on your vehicle, a pedal adjustment will be necessary to remove free play. See this thread for more information and/or discussion http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...amp;hl=flywheel
The XTD Stage 3 clutch kit is a ceramic 6 puc clutch kit consiting of a clutch, increased load pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch alignment tool. See this thread for more information and/or discussion http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...amp;hl=flywheel
Upon installation, I noticed the clutch engaged much lower on the pedal then stock. A clutch pedal free play adjustment was required. It had a alot of violent chatter and grabbing across all gears while engaging during the brake-in period. A ceramic clutch wears on the flywheel instead of the clutch, creating a new friction surface with each application. After 2 days of driving, wear on the flywheel was present but was not yet uniform across the friction surface.
After 2 weeks of driving, the clutch has broken in mostly and clutch grabbing/chatter has reduced to first gear and downshifting. There is some slight high pitched bearing noise present while clutch is engaged and under load.
I had to relearn my clutching habits to adjust for the lack of engagement slipping from this clutch. The clutch has less play between non-engaged and fully engaged. It's different from stock as the stock clutch will continue to slip even after fully engaged if revved too high for a shift and will still provide a smooth shift. This clutch will engage and snap the RPM of the engine down or chirp the tires even in 3rd gear if you do not rpm match. It may be tricky to drive for a beginner.
The engine revs quicker and feels peppier due to the lightweight flywheel. It is a good flywheel, nothing but praises. If used with a non-ceramic clutch, it may be a good idea to have it resurfaced to remove the lathe grooves.
The clutch pedal provides feedback as to the engagement point due to the XTD pressure plate. You can actually feel the friction point. The clutch feels heavier at the top of the pedal but follows through the rest of the pedal's travel. It feels springier and heavier, but it does not require much more effort then stock to push it down.
Overall, I'm thinking it may have been better for daily driving to go with a stage 2 clutch, or a stock clutch with a XTD 60% increased load pressure plate. The reason I say this is because if you're not paying attention to the engagement of the clutch, it can easily jerk you unexpectedly or wear on the flywheel too much while driving slowly. One thing is for certain, this clutch will not slip until worn out under spirited driving or my nitrous oxide setup. It seems to perform much better, act more expectedly, and is easier to use when driving at high RPMs then stock.
12-17-2008, 04:04 PM
#26
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Vehicle: 06 suby impreza outback sport
got the car today, on a nice and icy one, it drove funning but right away i knew they didn't bleed the clutch. I could barely get in gear and where it started to grip was right at the bottom of the pedal. i bleed it and it is much stiffer now but i don't like the idea of breaking a clutch in, in winter. 02.gif
02-17-2009, 07:18 AM
#27
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Thread Starter
People, this is a REVIEW thread. Not a I JUST BOUGHT A CLUTCH AND I HAVE NOT BROKEN IT IN thread or a I HAVE A FREAKIN' QUESTION ABOUT A CLUTCH thread. If you have information about a clutch to post, then post it, or post in an appropriate topic.
Mods please split the last post and remove the 5 previous posts.
The only information that belongs in this thread is:
Initial impressions after installing a clutch
Clutch characteristics on an installed clutch
pros/cons of a clutch you have installed
installation particulars of which you wish to make people aware
followups/afterthoughts on previous clutches
Basically any information relating to a clutch which you have installed. Write detailed, supply more information then you feel is necessary, supply information which you learned when you installed the clutch. As long as you feel it will help someone out in the future, choosing a clutch or installing that particular clutch, post that information. It's all in the first post
Mods please split the last post and remove the 5 previous posts.
The only information that belongs in this thread is:
Initial impressions after installing a clutch
Clutch characteristics on an installed clutch
pros/cons of a clutch you have installed
installation particulars of which you wish to make people aware
followups/afterthoughts on previous clutches
Basically any information relating to a clutch which you have installed. Write detailed, supply more information then you feel is necessary, supply information which you learned when you installed the clutch. As long as you feel it will help someone out in the future, choosing a clutch or installing that particular clutch, post that information. It's all in the first post
02-17-2009, 07:55 AM
#28
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Vehicle: 1998 Hyundai Coupe
I have a DXD Southbend Stage 2 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel
I purchased the parts direct from DXD and the local garage charged me £100 to install within 2 hours
Running sucessfully 268bhp and 200 lbft of torque no problems at all after 2K miles
The clutch felt pretty much the same as stock on the foot, so easy to push but had a lot more bite when you release so I rev a little harder
The car doesn't feel as "torquey" as it did before I had the clutch and flywheel replaced - this is probably due to the lighter flywheel.
My acceleration however feels alot quicker and the car is alot more responsive to the throttle.
I haven't noticed any chatter
Overall I would definately recommend this clutch and flywheel setup.
I purchased the parts direct from DXD and the local garage charged me £100 to install within 2 hours
Running sucessfully 268bhp and 200 lbft of torque no problems at all after 2K miles
The clutch felt pretty much the same as stock on the foot, so easy to push but had a lot more bite when you release so I rev a little harder
The car doesn't feel as "torquey" as it did before I had the clutch and flywheel replaced - this is probably due to the lighter flywheel.
My acceleration however feels alot quicker and the car is alot more responsive to the throttle.
I haven't noticed any chatter
Overall I would definately recommend this clutch and flywheel setup.
02-20-2009, 07:03 PM
#29
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Bought the Southbend Stage 1 Rally Kit and another XTD Prolite Flywheel to replace my current one.
Will post my thoughts on it after its installed but for now, some detailed pics on this clutch kit since I haven't seen any around.
Will post my thoughts on it after its installed but for now, some detailed pics on this clutch kit since I haven't seen any around.
02-25-2009, 06:41 PM
#30
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Vehicle: 06 suby impreza outback sport
clutch has about 500 miles on it now and i pushed it on good days and it pulls very good. i tested vs a integra ls with a 6puk w/ leight weight flywheel and it gripped almost as hard. still cant get find a good sweet spot in first for everyday driving.