Clutch Review Thread
07-10-2008, 03:39 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Been a long time since anyone has posted in here but what the hell.
I have had three different aftermarket clutches.
My very first aftermarket clutch was a clutchmasters stage 1 organic in my 97 1.8L tiburon. This thing grabbed like crazy and was very smooth and streetable. I put a good 20-30k on it and when I pulled it out there was virtually no wear to the disc, although there was some heat checking on the stock flywheel. I would say in that car I may have been putting down around 130-140 whp.
My next clutch was a gripforce stage 3 6 puck sprung hub from ebay. Terrible clutch IMHO. Very chattery from the line, had to take off at 3k rpm to get a smooth launch. It grabbed great, but only lasted about 15k miles on my NA 98 tiburon that was putting down 157whp. I would advise against purchase of this clutch.
My last, current and favorite clutch would be the Clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck sprung hub that I have on my boosted (probably 300-325 whp) 98 tiburon. The engagement is very smooth even at low rpm from a takeoff. It grabs like a son of a b**** and has much thicker pads than the ebay 6 puck that I had previous to it (meaning it should last about 3 times longer pending on the wear difference between the friction materials.
I would have to recommend clutchmasters clutches to anyone and everyone, of course there are some horror stories out there about this brand; but every clutch out there will get a bad review from someone. Break em in right and you should be good to go.
Thanks!
I have had three different aftermarket clutches.
My very first aftermarket clutch was a clutchmasters stage 1 organic in my 97 1.8L tiburon. This thing grabbed like crazy and was very smooth and streetable. I put a good 20-30k on it and when I pulled it out there was virtually no wear to the disc, although there was some heat checking on the stock flywheel. I would say in that car I may have been putting down around 130-140 whp.
My next clutch was a gripforce stage 3 6 puck sprung hub from ebay. Terrible clutch IMHO. Very chattery from the line, had to take off at 3k rpm to get a smooth launch. It grabbed great, but only lasted about 15k miles on my NA 98 tiburon that was putting down 157whp. I would advise against purchase of this clutch.
My last, current and favorite clutch would be the Clutchmasters stage 4 6 puck sprung hub that I have on my boosted (probably 300-325 whp) 98 tiburon. The engagement is very smooth even at low rpm from a takeoff. It grabs like a son of a b**** and has much thicker pads than the ebay 6 puck that I had previous to it (meaning it should last about 3 times longer pending on the wear difference between the friction materials.
I would have to recommend clutchmasters clutches to anyone and everyone, of course there are some horror stories out there about this brand; but every clutch out there will get a bad review from someone. Break em in right and you should be good to go.
Thanks!
07-10-2008, 03:53 PM
#12
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just to touch on this a little bit.
many know that the clutch in my car was in fact a clutchmasters.
I loved that clutch.. probably more than my ACT in terms of grip.
the reason the clutch blew up was NOT THE CLUTCH. it comes down to error of the installer.
i really liked my ACT clutch kit while i had it. had it for about 5,000 miles and not a single issue.. gripped very good. also very streetable.
the clutchmasters was comparable to the ACT, but gripped harder, and a little less streetable compared to the ACT. although i had a 4 puc instead of a 6 like Tdonnell has.
many know that the clutch in my car was in fact a clutchmasters.
I loved that clutch.. probably more than my ACT in terms of grip.
the reason the clutch blew up was NOT THE CLUTCH. it comes down to error of the installer.
i really liked my ACT clutch kit while i had it. had it for about 5,000 miles and not a single issue.. gripped very good. also very streetable.
the clutchmasters was comparable to the ACT, but gripped harder, and a little less streetable compared to the ACT. although i had a 4 puc instead of a 6 like Tdonnell has.
07-14-2008, 01:55 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Inglewood, CA 90302
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow am glad to have found this post, b/e now am looking for a clutch kit myself My auto tranny is completely done for and got me stranded this past saturday. so now I need a recomendation from a clutch am thinking of getting now http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAGE-1-RAC...emZ320271756159 check it out peeps and tell me your honest opinion. and also my tiburon is a 1997 1.8 L beta 1 4 speed automatic, which 5 speed trannys would go/fit best for performance mods? I heard that 97-01 tiburon/elantra trannys fits but which of those are the best. please let me asap as I cant go anywhere because of my transmission am going to get it swap from auto to manuel.
09-26-2008, 10:03 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Halifax N.S. Canada
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2000 tib
Bully stage 3 BULLYwith 1200kms (1/2 all highway and probably not completely broke in) will hold 290 torque fine, but failed at 301, they're rated at 350 fly wheel hp, so, thats about right...Trying out a stage 4 now, but I think I'll convert to a pull for piece of mind.
10-12-2008, 02:47 PM
#15
Moderator
Thread Starter
Alot of people have installed them, but noone has said anything about exedy
By reading through some of the posts you've made I'm hoping that most likely the clutch was broken in wrong as you were slipping 2 months after installation.
By reading through some of the posts you've made I'm hoping that most likely the clutch was broken in wrong as you were slipping 2 months after installation.
10-12-2008, 07:44 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Halifax N.S. Canada
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2000 tib
^ I do believe it could have been broken in better.I'am breaking in a stage 4 now and have 400 kms of stop/go/hilly/city driving in so far ,and she's great so far.
10-23-2008, 07:26 PM
#17
Moderator
Thread Starter
These are from the ElantraXD forums. The Elantra is basically a 4 door Tiburon. I'm not sure of the years of compatibility, but I know the 1997-2001 Elantras use the same tranny/engines that our Tiburons do
QUOTE ( Cyper)
OK. I think I've had this setup for much longer than anyone else so I thought I'd put my thoughts out on it.
My setup: XTD Stage 3 Clutch + 11lb Prolite Flywheel
I bought this setup back in summer of '05 and didn't get around to installing until October 1st, 2005. The whole shebang cost about $299 IIRC. Aside from the "normal" frustration that most people get when doing a clutch on these cars for the first time, the install went along fine. I had about 68-69k on my car when it was installed.
Upon first startup it was evident that the clutch pedal was much more springy. That would be the best way I could describe it. There was a little more resistance than there was with OEM but not as much as an old time cable clutch. You could tell the clutch was beefier.
The clutch disk itself was a 6puck. As anyone will tell you, driving a 6puck takes some getting used to but I didn't stall when I first drove it like I know another member did
. Its normal for there to be a chatter when engaging the clutch slowly, if you get on it quick and go, its a slow engagement. Theres also a "whine", which is the best way to put it, that you'll get at times that other people with 6 pucks have experienced. This is normal.
At the time it was installed I was N/A modded. I was never able to get it to slip or to burn it. I dynoed out at 141whp which isn't alot but it held it fine and still holds fine. I have raced a whole bunch of times, 15+ runs down the 1/4 and of course other runs/spirited driving else wheres so this clutch has seen its share of abuse.
The car now has 125,XXXmiles on it and I still have this clutch installed. It still does great and still doesn't slip when I beat on it. I'd recommend this clutch to anyone who just plans on N/A and possibly spraying nitrous on it. I really have nothing but good to say about my experience with this clutch.
If you have any questions about the clutch/flywheel combo just ask away, I just wanted to put this up since its an ebay clutch and offer my thoughts to anyone else considering it.
My setup: XTD Stage 3 Clutch + 11lb Prolite Flywheel
I bought this setup back in summer of '05 and didn't get around to installing until October 1st, 2005. The whole shebang cost about $299 IIRC. Aside from the "normal" frustration that most people get when doing a clutch on these cars for the first time, the install went along fine. I had about 68-69k on my car when it was installed.
Upon first startup it was evident that the clutch pedal was much more springy. That would be the best way I could describe it. There was a little more resistance than there was with OEM but not as much as an old time cable clutch. You could tell the clutch was beefier.
The clutch disk itself was a 6puck. As anyone will tell you, driving a 6puck takes some getting used to but I didn't stall when I first drove it like I know another member did
. Its normal for there to be a chatter when engaging the clutch slowly, if you get on it quick and go, its a slow engagement. Theres also a "whine", which is the best way to put it, that you'll get at times that other people with 6 pucks have experienced. This is normal.At the time it was installed I was N/A modded. I was never able to get it to slip or to burn it. I dynoed out at 141whp which isn't alot but it held it fine and still holds fine. I have raced a whole bunch of times, 15+ runs down the 1/4 and of course other runs/spirited driving else wheres so this clutch has seen its share of abuse.
The car now has 125,XXXmiles on it and I still have this clutch installed. It still does great and still doesn't slip when I beat on it. I'd recommend this clutch to anyone who just plans on N/A and possibly spraying nitrous on it. I really have nothing but good to say about my experience with this clutch.
If you have any questions about the clutch/flywheel combo just ask away, I just wanted to put this up since its an ebay clutch and offer my thoughts to anyone else considering it.
QUOTE (Kewlkat)
I have had two different combos on my car, so I will share both experiences with you:
1- ACT Street Clutch Kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~950$
I recommend this for anyone who's N/A. Stay away from this if F/I. I had this particular combo for about 20,000KM. Half of it was boosted, and the other half N/A. I was pushing about 11psi daily on the Alpine Turbo.
One day as I was doing a WOT run on the highway it slipped. Not a bit, but, very badly. It felt like it just let something loose and then from that moment on it would slip all the time in WOT over 3,000rpm in any gear. They say rated for 240wtq. I highly doubt this is the case, because i sure as hell wasn't making that much power!
But, I must say that now since I am back to N/A I chose this kit again (see next paragraphs for the intermediate kit I had), and I am very satisfied. Definitely the best combo for NA performance in my opinion because the disc is organic but holds more than stock, without the drawbacks of pucked discs (see below).
2- ACT 4 puck ceramic sprung kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~980$
This kit was so-so. It was holding the boost well for the little while I had it when turbocharged, but I only kept the turbo for about another 8,000km so I didn't really get the chance to beat on it. However, I did not like this clutch at all. The break-in period was horrible, but that's not it. It chatters badly if you're not used to it, but a couple of days and you get to know it.
However, my biggest complaint and possibly the reason why I chose to remove it after 10,000km is the WHINE. God damn is it annoying. Every time you slip it it makes a horrible whining sound. And I'm guessing the 4 puck is worse the 6 puck from what I gather. And for those who say "I don't slip the clutch blah blah blah'', yes, you do when you take off from a dead stop, don't tell me you chirp the tires in the middle of traffic all the time, you can get a ticket for that.
However, the Fidanza flywheel hasn't caused me problems. The fact that they use the stock ring gear on it makes it safer than ebay knock-offs that might chip a tooth or a couple (I saw that happen on RDT).
All this said, I've owned both these combos, in order, and now, I'm back to the ACT street disc!
1- ACT Street Clutch Kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~950$
I recommend this for anyone who's N/A. Stay away from this if F/I. I had this particular combo for about 20,000KM. Half of it was boosted, and the other half N/A. I was pushing about 11psi daily on the Alpine Turbo.
One day as I was doing a WOT run on the highway it slipped. Not a bit, but, very badly. It felt like it just let something loose and then from that moment on it would slip all the time in WOT over 3,000rpm in any gear. They say rated for 240wtq. I highly doubt this is the case, because i sure as hell wasn't making that much power!
But, I must say that now since I am back to N/A I chose this kit again (see next paragraphs for the intermediate kit I had), and I am very satisfied. Definitely the best combo for NA performance in my opinion because the disc is organic but holds more than stock, without the drawbacks of pucked discs (see below).
2- ACT 4 puck ceramic sprung kit/Fidanza Flywheel - Cost: ~980$
This kit was so-so. It was holding the boost well for the little while I had it when turbocharged, but I only kept the turbo for about another 8,000km so I didn't really get the chance to beat on it. However, I did not like this clutch at all. The break-in period was horrible, but that's not it. It chatters badly if you're not used to it, but a couple of days and you get to know it.
However, my biggest complaint and possibly the reason why I chose to remove it after 10,000km is the WHINE. God damn is it annoying. Every time you slip it it makes a horrible whining sound. And I'm guessing the 4 puck is worse the 6 puck from what I gather. And for those who say "I don't slip the clutch blah blah blah'', yes, you do when you take off from a dead stop, don't tell me you chirp the tires in the middle of traffic all the time, you can get a ticket for that.
However, the Fidanza flywheel hasn't caused me problems. The fact that they use the stock ring gear on it makes it safer than ebay knock-offs that might chip a tooth or a couple (I saw that happen on RDT).
All this said, I've owned both these combos, in order, and now, I'm back to the ACT street disc!
QUOTE (timebomb056)
I have had 2 differant setups also
My first set up was a f1 clutch kit stage three with 12lb flywheel
it was good a little hard to get used to
this set up took beating I tested this setup to the fullest dumping the clutch power shifting racing at the track . it took a lot of abuse then it started to slip . but it is really strong because when i mean it was tested if you only knew.
(this is before i realized that i had to grow up and that it get expensive when you break things doing stupid stuff like what i did)
The second is new i just put it in it is an f1 clutch stage one with a 12lb fly wheel
I love it real smooth to drive and it graps when you want to put the power to the down
This is the way to go for lower hp car. There is no need to have a clutch that can hold 350hp when you are only making around 140hp
But that is just from my experiences also i work on car for a living so the last thing i want to do is work on my car on my days off. I is one thing if i am doing performance parts but it sucks having to fix it
My first set up was a f1 clutch kit stage three with 12lb flywheel
it was good a little hard to get used to
this set up took beating I tested this setup to the fullest dumping the clutch power shifting racing at the track . it took a lot of abuse then it started to slip . but it is really strong because when i mean it was tested if you only knew.
(this is before i realized that i had to grow up and that it get expensive when you break things doing stupid stuff like what i did)
The second is new i just put it in it is an f1 clutch stage one with a 12lb fly wheel
I love it real smooth to drive and it graps when you want to put the power to the down
This is the way to go for lower hp car. There is no need to have a clutch that can hold 350hp when you are only making around 140hp
But that is just from my experiences also i work on car for a living so the last thing i want to do is work on my car on my days off. I is one thing if i am doing performance parts but it sucks having to fix it
QUOTE (ElantraEVO)
i got std stage 3 clutch w/ resurfaced/lighted flywheel
resurfaced flywheel is allot cheaper than buying a light weight one but also only took about 5.5 lbs off.. the clutch itself is great. ive had it on for 15k and so far its amazing. did the install on my own with the help of the shop owner that let me use his lift. ive heard some some skepticisms about xtd but i think its awesome. had 50k miles on the stock b4 having to change it. the xtd stage 3 is great for moderate hp and very fast response. i have used it on the 8th drag and have yet to get any slippage.
resurfaced flywheel is allot cheaper than buying a light weight one but also only took about 5.5 lbs off.. the clutch itself is great. ive had it on for 15k and so far its amazing. did the install on my own with the help of the shop owner that let me use his lift. ive heard some some skepticisms about xtd but i think its awesome. had 50k miles on the stock b4 having to change it. the xtd stage 3 is great for moderate hp and very fast response. i have used it on the 8th drag and have yet to get any slippage.
QUOTE
I've had the HVE 4-puck ceramic clutch and factory flywheel installed for about 30,000 miles.
Pros:
The break-in for this clutch, as suggested directly by HVE, was to take it to a deserted paved road, rev to about 5K and dump the clutch. Rinse and repeat approximately 10 times. Done.
It sticks no matter what. See also: Cons...
No whine. Those of you with other pucked clutches may have either throwout bearings that are different (not necessarily bad) or maybe it's the pressure plate they send with it, or maybe the sprung hub? Who knows, but mine doesn't whine at any RPM or temperature.
Generally speaking, it's very drivable once you get over the whole "trying to slip it" thing. You have to relearn how to approach hills and bumps and the like, but ultimately I don't have any problems going to work, getting groceries, and other such mundane everday activities with this clutch.
Cons:
It chatters. That's what pucked clutches do, especially when they're inorganic materials. If you don't want clutch chatter, don't get an inorganic clutch.
It sticks no matter what. For those of you with 250HP+ power and good tires, this clutch makes it very easy to shred your stock diff. Better yet, if you've got a big pile of horsepower on tap and a strong aftermarket diff and good tires, it's also quite capable of snapping an axle... (actually it broke the CV joint, but who's counting?) It only happened once though, and it was the stocker axle after more than 100k on the odometer. May have been some other structural issue with that particular shaft...
It eats the stock flywheel, and I'm not kidding. After about 25,000 miles I dropped the tranny for some diff work. The stock flywheel has a trench dug into it about 1/4" deep from clutch wear -- clutch still had a relatively decent amount of material left. I'm not overly concerned as I'm using a stock flywheel, but if you had a stock unit that is machined down to save weight, you could be in for a quick catastrophe...
I don't remember how much it cost, and unfortunately you can't buy it anymore it seems
I really like this clutch, and will be sad to see it go when I need to replace it eventually.
Pros:
The break-in for this clutch, as suggested directly by HVE, was to take it to a deserted paved road, rev to about 5K and dump the clutch. Rinse and repeat approximately 10 times. Done.
It sticks no matter what. See also: Cons...
No whine. Those of you with other pucked clutches may have either throwout bearings that are different (not necessarily bad) or maybe it's the pressure plate they send with it, or maybe the sprung hub? Who knows, but mine doesn't whine at any RPM or temperature.
Generally speaking, it's very drivable once you get over the whole "trying to slip it" thing. You have to relearn how to approach hills and bumps and the like, but ultimately I don't have any problems going to work, getting groceries, and other such mundane everday activities with this clutch.
Cons:
It chatters. That's what pucked clutches do, especially when they're inorganic materials. If you don't want clutch chatter, don't get an inorganic clutch.
It sticks no matter what. For those of you with 250HP+ power and good tires, this clutch makes it very easy to shred your stock diff. Better yet, if you've got a big pile of horsepower on tap and a strong aftermarket diff and good tires, it's also quite capable of snapping an axle... (actually it broke the CV joint, but who's counting?) It only happened once though, and it was the stocker axle after more than 100k on the odometer. May have been some other structural issue with that particular shaft...
It eats the stock flywheel, and I'm not kidding. After about 25,000 miles I dropped the tranny for some diff work. The stock flywheel has a trench dug into it about 1/4" deep from clutch wear -- clutch still had a relatively decent amount of material left. I'm not overly concerned as I'm using a stock flywheel, but if you had a stock unit that is machined down to save weight, you could be in for a quick catastrophe...
I don't remember how much it cost, and unfortunately you can't buy it anymore it seems
I really like this clutch, and will be sad to see it go when I need to replace it eventually.
10-24-2008, 05:01 AM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: CT and RI, United States
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
South Bend Stage 2
Has a more defined grab point, but is still easy to push in. Its great for a daily driver. I've been running it for over a year and it's holding up great. It is good for 260lbs/ft. Modifications I have can be seen in my garage, but it is basically IHE.
Fidanza aluminum LWFW HY-3
Car rev's noticeably quicker. No problems. Has a replaceable mating disk so you do not have to replace the whole flywheel should it eventually wear out.
Stock flywheel
Fidanza flywheel
Has a more defined grab point, but is still easy to push in. Its great for a daily driver. I've been running it for over a year and it's holding up great. It is good for 260lbs/ft. Modifications I have can be seen in my garage, but it is basically IHE.
Fidanza aluminum LWFW HY-3
Car rev's noticeably quicker. No problems. Has a replaceable mating disk so you do not have to replace the whole flywheel should it eventually wear out.
Stock flywheel
Fidanza flywheel
10-27-2008, 06:12 PM
#19
Moderator
Thread Starter
XTR = F1. XTR Stage 3 is the same as an F1 Stage 3. These clutches are uncertified by SFI.
This is not to be confused with XTD. XTD has a blurb on their site about XTR being in no way affiliated with them.
This info should add a bit to the clutch review thread as it combines reviews from 2 manufacturers into 1.
QUOTE
Re: You've received a question about your eBay item, XTR® STAGE 3 SPORTS CLUTCH KIT 97-05 HYUNDAI TIBURON‏ From: Megatuning (megatuninginc@gmail.com)
Sent: Mon 10/20/08 2:55 AM To:
F1 and XTR have the same manufacturer/supplier. ;-)
Warranty is 3 months 3000 miles during our office hours.
Thank you!
Sent: Mon 10/20/08 2:55 AM To:
F1 and XTR have the same manufacturer/supplier. ;-)
Warranty is 3 months 3000 miles during our office hours.
Thank you!
This is not to be confused with XTD. XTD has a blurb on their site about XTR being in no way affiliated with them.
This info should add a bit to the clutch review thread as it combines reviews from 2 manufacturers into 1.
10-27-2008, 09:06 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: atx!!
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vehicle: 2000 hyundai tiburon
XTD STAGE 2 W/ FIDANZA FLYWHEEL. replaced w/ tranny about 2 years ago.
Had it for about 8-10 thoundand miles. It will be 2 years in dec.
I drag raced about a total of 10-13 1/8 mile runs when it had about 1500 miles on it. Also it is my daily driver.
Its more spongy feeling than my stock clutch was but it grabs harder than stock.
However I did notice a little bit of slippage when I nailed it while I was turning trying to beat upcoming traffic recently. I was at about 5700 rpm in first gear when it slipped a little. but I could have just spun my tire cause I didnt smell anything afterwards.
So far this clutch has been good for me but I would probaly recommend a stage 3 instead for more harsh drivers.
Its a little harder to take off slowly than my stock but that may be due to the flywheel.
It does have little chatter on low rpm launches but not really noticable at all.
My mods are: I/H/E,obx crank pully,.....ark short shifter,um...thats about it....as far as the clutch goes..
Had it for about 8-10 thoundand miles. It will be 2 years in dec.
I drag raced about a total of 10-13 1/8 mile runs when it had about 1500 miles on it. Also it is my daily driver.
Its more spongy feeling than my stock clutch was but it grabs harder than stock.
However I did notice a little bit of slippage when I nailed it while I was turning trying to beat upcoming traffic recently. I was at about 5700 rpm in first gear when it slipped a little. but I could have just spun my tire cause I didnt smell anything afterwards.
So far this clutch has been good for me but I would probaly recommend a stage 3 instead for more harsh drivers.
Its a little harder to take off slowly than my stock but that may be due to the flywheel.
It does have little chatter on low rpm launches but not really noticable at all.
My mods are: I/H/E,obx crank pully,.....ark short shifter,um...thats about it....as far as the clutch goes..