Clutch Options
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
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From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
www.rpw.com.au www.hve.com.au
Clutch install costs can be cheap, or expensive depending on where you go. Your local Hyundai Dealer will probably charge you close to $500 for just the install.
A decent local transmission shop will probably charge closer to $150 for the same work.
Clutch install costs can be cheap, or expensive depending on where you go. Your local Hyundai Dealer will probably charge you close to $500 for just the install.
A decent local transmission shop will probably charge closer to $150 for the same work.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
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I have the Brass button clutch installed in my tibby and let me tell you it grabs like a bitch.The instant you release your foot from the clutch it just pushes you back into your seat and off you go.This clutch is very good for launching off the line.Highly recommended 
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by ^AnDre^:
what site should i go to for flywheel and clutch.. i cant find netin...
what site should i go to for flywheel and clutch.. i cant find netin...
KORE has 5 stages of clutches. As does clutchmasters www.clutchmasters.com
HVE and RPW links are posted above.
[ January 19, 2002: Message edited by: Random ]
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by SpeeDemoN:
ouch i didn't know that a high performance clutch would be over 500 USD. Damn.
ouch i didn't know that a high performance clutch would be over 500 USD. Damn.
Clutchmasters keeps raising their prices, it was a tad under $400 2 years ago when I bought mine.
Check into the KORE clutches, they are supposed to be cheaper. But keep in mind, the stage three is WAY TOO MUCH for a N/A Tibby, even with Nitrous. Go with a stage 2 for a N/A Tibby.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
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I'm not sure about my clutch yet... I'm a little pessimistic about the brass button clutch, but I think that's only because I haven't had enough experience with it yet.
The best "streetable" clutch to hold power would be the Clutchmasters in a stage 3 (for your S/C). I've been told that even the Clutchmasters stage 5 is a good "streetable" clutch if you're dealing with huge (400+WHP) power.
My RPW cerametallic clutch is very nice, but it likes to chatter in the really cold mornings. However, this thing is sticker than all get-out, I think you could throw it on the wall and it would stick Realistically, this is WAY too much clutch for anyone N/A but it should be good to 400+ wheel horsepower. Because it's a puck design and not a full-face disc, it has a tendancy to grab and chatter when it's unhappy. Broken motormounts exaggerate the problem...
I'd say that with an S/C setup, the CM stage 3 is your best bet. I think the brass button and the RPW will likely destroy the pressureplate or flywheel before they actually wear out -- the CM I'm betting is easier on your transmission.
That's actually why I'm considering replacing my RPW unit with a CM stage 5 -- only because it's likely to be easier on the mating surfaces and on the transmission itself.
-Red-
The best "streetable" clutch to hold power would be the Clutchmasters in a stage 3 (for your S/C). I've been told that even the Clutchmasters stage 5 is a good "streetable" clutch if you're dealing with huge (400+WHP) power.
My RPW cerametallic clutch is very nice, but it likes to chatter in the really cold mornings. However, this thing is sticker than all get-out, I think you could throw it on the wall and it would stick
Realistically, this is WAY too much clutch for anyone N/A but it should be good to 400+ wheel horsepower. Because it's a puck design and not a full-face disc, it has a tendancy to grab and chatter when it's unhappy. Broken motormounts exaggerate the problem...I'd say that with an S/C setup, the CM stage 3 is your best bet. I think the brass button and the RPW will likely destroy the pressureplate or flywheel before they actually wear out -- the CM I'm betting is easier on your transmission.
That's actually why I'm considering replacing my RPW unit with a CM stage 5 -- only because it's likely to be easier on the mating surfaces and on the transmission itself.
-Red-