Ebc 3gd Discs + Ebc Greenstuff Pads + Goodridge Ss Brake Lines
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ravenna / ITALY
Today, at 150.000Km (about a little less than 100 miles) i have decided to change *everything* about Brakes in my RD2.
From EBC (UK):
EBC Dimpled and Slotted Sport Discs (3GD) - ref. part.no.
GD1018 (FRONT)
GD1017 (REAR)
+
EBC GreenStuff Pads (ref. part.no.):
DP21358 (FRONT)
DP2528 (REAR
+
GOODRIDGE S.S. Brake Line Kit (note: brake lines kit made upon request -not a pre-made kit on ebay- and BTW, not only the hoses but also the banjos/connectors are in SS, and fully tested each one/line)
wow fing02.gif now i have really a better feeling on braking....
From EBC (UK):
EBC Dimpled and Slotted Sport Discs (3GD) - ref. part.no.
GD1018 (FRONT)
GD1017 (REAR)
+
EBC GreenStuff Pads (ref. part.no.):
DP21358 (FRONT)
DP2528 (REAR
+
GOODRIDGE S.S. Brake Line Kit (note: brake lines kit made upon request -not a pre-made kit on ebay- and BTW, not only the hoses but also the banjos/connectors are in SS, and fully tested each one/line)
wow fing02.gif now i have really a better feeling on braking....
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 267
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From: Northwest Arkansas, cue the banjos.
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
I've got the same brake lines and mine took forever to be made and delivered, but the results should be worth it! Looks like a great setup you've got going.
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FYI, your rotors are on the wrong sides of the car. the top of the slot it supposed to point towards the front of the car. not sure how much it matters, but just letting you know..
good luck that that don't crack. i know dimpled are not as prone to cracking, since they don't go all the way through, so thats good. dimpled are mainly for looks though, as drilled provide a cooling benefit.
but with all those aftermarket 'cheap' D/S rotors they are all prone to some types of issues since they are machined blanks.
looks good though.
good luck that that don't crack. i know dimpled are not as prone to cracking, since they don't go all the way through, so thats good. dimpled are mainly for looks though, as drilled provide a cooling benefit.
but with all those aftermarket 'cheap' D/S rotors they are all prone to some types of issues since they are machined blanks.
looks good though.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Socks, as the owner of a set of EBC rotors (GD7143, GD7144 for the 5-lug '04 to '06 models) I can say that his match mine. EBC puts "L" and "R" indicators on each rotor so that you know which side they should be mounted. You can't mess it up; that's the way they are supposed to be.
I have yet to get on my Axxis Ultimate Kevlar+Ceramics, EBC rotors and Stauf SS brake lines just yet. Here's hoping I can do it in the next two weeks though smile.gif
I have yet to get on my Axxis Ultimate Kevlar+Ceramics, EBC rotors and Stauf SS brake lines just yet. Here's hoping I can do it in the next two weeks though smile.gif
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if tanc chimes in, im sure he will go thru all the technical garble on why it should be the other way.
my wilwood BBK goes the opposite way, as other wilwood kits..
AP racing, Rotora, TRD, wilwood, ksport, stoptech all go the same way.
the slots purpose is typically to cut into the top of the pad first at an angle to de-glaze them.
if the vanes aren't directional, then the slots should face the other way than in his pic.
some manufacturers though, drill/slot them more for 'looks' on cars with directional vanes (dont recall if tibs do) so you would want to put the rotor on according to the vanes, not the slot direction.
i wonder what EBC's reasoning is for why they have the slots in the opposite direction.
although, they can be done both ways, the way shown in the above images is just the best way to deglaze the pads, which is the main purpose of the slots.
the other way seems to be more efficient at getting brake dust out, especially when the slots 'empty out' at the edge of the rotor like the EBC
images cited from racingbrake.com
my wilwood BBK goes the opposite way, as other wilwood kits..
AP racing, Rotora, TRD, wilwood, ksport, stoptech all go the same way.
the slots purpose is typically to cut into the top of the pad first at an angle to de-glaze them.
if the vanes aren't directional, then the slots should face the other way than in his pic.
some manufacturers though, drill/slot them more for 'looks' on cars with directional vanes (dont recall if tibs do) so you would want to put the rotor on according to the vanes, not the slot direction.
i wonder what EBC's reasoning is for why they have the slots in the opposite direction.
although, they can be done both ways, the way shown in the above images is just the best way to deglaze the pads, which is the main purpose of the slots.
the other way seems to be more efficient at getting brake dust out, especially when the slots 'empty out' at the edge of the rotor like the EBC
images cited from racingbrake.com
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Nate is right on the directionality of the slots, and the cooling vanes inside. I've posted it a few times too.
As for dimples having no effect, that's not true at all. They allow for better "degassing" as it is called, and lets the pads sit against the rotors better because there is no "gas buffer" effect between the pad and rotor during hard braking.
This has been talked about to death guys, let's not dig up the horse, beat the shit out of it for a week, and then bury it again.
As for dimples having no effect, that's not true at all. They allow for better "degassing" as it is called, and lets the pads sit against the rotors better because there is no "gas buffer" effect between the pad and rotor during hard braking.
This has been talked about to death guys, let's not dig up the horse, beat the shit out of it for a week, and then bury it again.
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Vehicle: 1997 Tiburon
Everyone is correct on how the slots are suppose to point for the best "deglazing" effect in a brake setup but what most people don't realize is that its pointless.
Many years ago brake pads were not even close to how they are engineered chemically in today's world. Yes, back then you pad would glaze like a MOFO, there would also be a thin layer of gas formed, etc. Back then they didn't have the chemical engineering know-how they do in todays world. Good quality brake pads are so well engineered that dimples, slots are all pointless as they don't glaze, or extrude gases like they used too.
Since they didn't have the engineering for the pads to be efficient, they designed de-glazing features in the rotors that have stuck todays world of "tuners". People still think they do something and buy them, and most of the time people just buy them for looks.
Now the drilled rotors do add a performance feature, no, not cooling but weight saving. It reduces unsprung weight. Theres also a short downfall of less pad surface on the rotor and are not used in full circuit race cars because on extreme heat they crack, and because of less pad surface. What most people overlook when upgrading their brake system is their tires. Unlike what some people think, tires are the most critical component to improving your braking distance and efficiency.
There's a lot of research done on this by professional race teams. That's where I have most of my info from, I wasn't born with it.
Here's a picture of a formula1 car for example. Notice the plain rotor, with the 6 piston calipers. No dimples/slots/drilled etc, mind you their rotors are made out of CF, it still shows you that solid rotors are the best when it comes to performance. The black cylinder looking thing behind the rotor is what forces cool air to the brakes.
PS. sorry jer, I didn't read your last statement, anyhow this info isn't anywhere on the site anyhow. smile.gif
Many years ago brake pads were not even close to how they are engineered chemically in today's world. Yes, back then you pad would glaze like a MOFO, there would also be a thin layer of gas formed, etc. Back then they didn't have the chemical engineering know-how they do in todays world. Good quality brake pads are so well engineered that dimples, slots are all pointless as they don't glaze, or extrude gases like they used too.
Since they didn't have the engineering for the pads to be efficient, they designed de-glazing features in the rotors that have stuck todays world of "tuners". People still think they do something and buy them, and most of the time people just buy them for looks.
Now the drilled rotors do add a performance feature, no, not cooling but weight saving. It reduces unsprung weight. Theres also a short downfall of less pad surface on the rotor and are not used in full circuit race cars because on extreme heat they crack, and because of less pad surface. What most people overlook when upgrading their brake system is their tires. Unlike what some people think, tires are the most critical component to improving your braking distance and efficiency.
There's a lot of research done on this by professional race teams. That's where I have most of my info from, I wasn't born with it.
Here's a picture of a formula1 car for example. Notice the plain rotor, with the 6 piston calipers. No dimples/slots/drilled etc, mind you their rotors are made out of CF, it still shows you that solid rotors are the best when it comes to performance. The black cylinder looking thing behind the rotor is what forces cool air to the brakes.
PS. sorry jer, I didn't read your last statement, anyhow this info isn't anywhere on the site anyhow. smile.gif