Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors
there is one on Ebay but it says it's for 97~99. I'm guessing it should fit 00's unless they are captive but they don't look like it. and can i just use the same pads or should i go with semi-metalic pads?
thanx
thanx
so, i'm guessing they fit???
o yea, and how do u change the rotor?
i took out the screws already for the rim but dealer said something like the bearing will make noise and such after rotor replacement....
[ October 17, 2001: Message edited by: MySilverTiburon ]
o yea, and how do u change the rotor?
i took out the screws already for the rim but dealer said something like the bearing will make noise and such after rotor replacement....
[ October 17, 2001: Message edited by: MySilverTiburon ]
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
If you have a 1999 or newer...to replace the rotor you do the following.
Remove wheel
Remove 2 bolts in caliper
remove caliper
Remove 2 screws holding on rotor if still there
Remove rotor
Installation is the opposite.
Just make sure to use new pads with new rotors and BED THE ROTORS/PADS before you drive normally!
Remove wheel
Remove 2 bolts in caliper
remove caliper
Remove 2 screws holding on rotor if still there
Remove rotor
Installation is the opposite.
Just make sure to use new pads with new rotors and BED THE ROTORS/PADS before you drive normally!
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by Iago:
Heh...Hey Random...wanna take a crack at a five-step program for removing captive rotors?
I'll get you started:
Step 1 - take off the wheel.
Step 2 - feel intimidated. Put the wheel back on.
Heh...Hey Random...wanna take a crack at a five-step program for removing captive rotors?
I'll get you started:
Step 1 - take off the wheel.
Step 2 - feel intimidated. Put the wheel back on.
Step 3. Remove 2 bolts in caliper, remove caliper
Step 4. Remove 2 screws holding on rotor if still there, Remove rotor
Now reverse the procedue with the new rotors, just remove the brake pads and put in new ones.
To "Bed" in rotors and pads...
Here is what can happen if you DON'T Bed in or "run in" your new rotors... http://www.frozenrotors.com/norunin.htm
Brake pads and rotors should always be initially bedded to condition the pads and rotor surfaces for racing use. This "bedding in" procedure will result in greater performance, longer wear, and less likelihood of rotors cracking due to thermal shock. To bed in brake pads, start by pumping your brakes at a very low speed to assure proper brake system operation. In a safe location, make a series of progressively harder stops from moderate speeds until some brake fade is experienced. Allow brakes to cool while driving at moderate speeds, avoiding use of the brakes. The brake pads should now be properly bedded in.
I usually do 6 15 MPH quick stops, then 4 30 MPH quick Stops, then 3 45 MPH quick stops.
That is enought to fade most stock brakes if done quickly back to back to back. Then get out on the highway/long street and cruise. Avoid any street with stoplights/stopsigns, as you want the rotors to cool without any additional braking. a 15 minute drive is enought to cool them off.
Installation is the opposite.
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
QUOTE
Originally posted by Iago:
I thought captive-rotor setups had a lot more hassle to swap to non-captives?
I thought captive-rotor setups had a lot more hassle to swap to non-captives?
Captive to non-captive is a bitch...but this was just swaping out rotors on non captive...


