This is how it all happened...........

I had a bad tranny leak so I had to replace the output shaft seal. Sooooo, I buy the seals from Hyundai, 8$ normally, 3 was my price.
Next step was taking my rotor off. Little did I know the captive rotor/hub setup was TOTAL crap, so my dad attempted to "unsieze" the rotor from the hub with a 5lb hammer. Hub=garbage.
I now go to the junk yard to get spindles and hubs, buy rotors from rotorpros, throw it all together. Drivers side solid, pass side is wobly...
I ended up buying new inner and outer tie rods, 4 rotors, pads, ball joints, stabilizer links, bearings, gear oil, and brake lube.

Anyways, I've been BSing with the local Hyundai parts guy who gives me parts for half price now, and he had one of his mechanics press in new bearings into the spindle.

A little trick some of you may know, some may not... AutoZone rents a bearing press, you get your money back afterwards. Also, once you get the bearing pressed into the spindle, there is another trick to pressing the hub into the spindle.
-Mount the spindle onto the ball joint
-Insert CV shaft into the hole in the spindle.
-Connect the spindle to the tie rod and strut so it doesn't move
-Once everything is immobile, lube up the shaft on the hub, now put the end of the cv shaft into the the hub, line up the splines, and push it on as much as you can
-Now that the hub is sort of on the cv shaft, and sort of in the spindle, just tighten down the spindle nut all the way and it presses the hub into the spindle.

Voila! The hub is now pressed into the spindle without renting any tools or paying any shops.




Sorry to sort of b**** in this thread, but it feels good to vent a little bit and hopefully help people as much as I can so they don't go through the same shit. My horrible experience with the front end of this car was bad, but I guess I learned a lot too.

If anyone has questions, feel free to ask me.



Here is a list of tools/sizes for stuff too, so you know what you need.

FRONT TOOLS!
Torch with MAPP gas
3/8 Drive Ratchet
1/2 Drive Ratchet
17mm socket, you need two, one short one deep.
19mm open end wrench
14mm short socket
12mm short socket
C Clamp, at least 6"
Ball Joint press is nice to have when changing ball joints, if not, PB Blaster and a sledge hammer work too!
Tie Rod end tool and Saginaw end, you can rent from AutoZone. You should use this to take the inner tie rod off.
Dremel works nicely when cutting pieces off. I had to cut off my outer tie rod and stabilizer link bolts
1&1/4 or 32mm socket for spindle nut, remove cotter pin.


FRONT SIZES!
Caliper bolts - 14mm x2 The ones that screw into the the part with the rubber sleve
Caliper Bracker bolts - 17mm x2 These hold the caliper bracket to the spindle
Strut Bolts - 17mm x2, there is a nut and a bolt so two ratchets are ideal.
Ball joint nut - 19mm x1, you should use an open end wrench with this. Once you loosten it enough, the ratchet will be hitting the CV shaft and you are SOL.
Outer Tie rod end nut - 17mm x1. There is a cotter pin through this nut, take it off before hand.
Spindle nut - 32mm x1 Take the cotter pin out. This holds the spindle together with the cv shaft.
Brake line bracket - 12mm x1 Located on strut

REAR SIZES!
The rear caliper pistons thread in instead of press in like the fronts. There are two tools for this, one is a cube with many notches, the other is a kit that does the same thing. Both available at AutoZone.
Caliper Bolts and Bracket Bolts - 14mm for both caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts.
After you take the bracket off, the rotor should just come right off as well. It may be rusted or seized on, so you may need to hit it with a hammer to separate them.

Again, if you need any help, message me.

 

Nice write-up!! Sucks to hear about your experience, and glad everything's back together so you have a car again!



And to think that all this time I could have done my own wheel bearings (non-captive).

 

Also. The Saginaw tool that you rent is too large. What you can do to make it work is take some washers, I used 2 pennies, and bend them to a 90* angle. Then tape them to the inside of the Saginaw tool. It shims the tool out the perfect amount to fit our inner tie rods.