first off:

rd2 disc brakes = rd1 disc brakes....right?

So far I have:
-rear wheel hubs from a disc brake tib (do I need these or will my drum brake wheel hubs work?)
-rear calipers from disc brake tib
-drilled/slotted rotors
-brake pads
-goodridge ss brake lines (on the way...)

AND THIS IS THE BIG QUESTION I HAVE:

do i need an e-brake cable from a disc brake tib or will the e-brake cable from my drum brake set-up work with the dics brakes?

I believe I remember someone mentioning problems with the e-brake cable bolting up after a swap.

If i do need an e-brake cable from a disc brake tib anyone got one? Or can they easily get one from a junkyard? I've searched for weeks for a tiburon in my area that's junked. no luck.

thanks for any help guys.

 

you are going to need a disk brake ebrake cable
its not that hard to get off but removing the center councel makes things way easier to get to the connector on the inside other than that its just removing the 3 bolts per side from under the car

 

^thanks again dude for the brake lines you gave up for me.

I feel bad, (not special)....like I haev to give you something in return.

eh....I have an extra RDTiburon.com thong on it's way to me. It didn't arrive in time for my g/f to have it....it's all yours mein. Yor what like a medium? nana.gif
joke.gif

oh yeah forgot to ask, did you have to replace the wheel hubs as well during your brake swap?

 

i havent finished the swap...

oh dont feel bad mang

and the thong wouldnt fit passed my thigh..... laugh.gif 250lbs

well on the rear the bearings are part of the hub so i didnt buy new hubs the bearings looked good

if they start humming replace them

 

discbrake cables are about $50 from the dealer... EACH! (you will need two)

 

what do you mean cables? E-BRAKE cables?

 

okay i got the calipers and cable sand everything. Just got done doing the whole swap tonight (still have to finish up though).

( Couple more questions )

1.Can I keep the drum brake master cylinder or do I need to swap it with one from a disc brake tib?

2.) Do i need a proportioning valve from a disc brake tib? I ask this because I know in drum/rear disc/front set-up's the drum's act first and then the disc to aid in stopping. AND...disc brakes need more flow than drum brakes to operate prooperly. So, I still have my drum brake proportioning valve in for my drive to Arizona but once I get there do I need to find a proportioning valve from an all-around disc brake tib?

3.) unrelated to brakes, but a front rotors question.
I have a 1997 Hyundai Tiburon and bought a set of four rotors (drilled/slotted) from RotorPro's. I put the rear on with the new hubs and calipers/brake lines. Done. BUT, when i tried to swap the fronts I realized I had to remove the whole wheel hub. So I did, then I couldn't figure out how to get the "snap ring" out of the wheel hub...
It looks as if I need to take the wheel hub and new rotors to a machine shop where they can press the old "snap ring" out and press the new rotors in place.
Am I right in assuming this or is there some way to swap the front rotors without a machine press? For a 1997 Tiburon, No ABS.

Anyone else ever have this problem when they put on their drilled/slotted rotors?

anyway, the brake swap went swell. All will be done once e-brake cables are attached. The calipers turned out nicely (painted blue to match the rotor hubs). Maybe pics in a week or so when I have the time in Arizona.

thanks for all your help guys, and input you have toward the questions above^^

-patrick

 

You are correct on the fact that drum brakes require less line pressure to activate, it is one of the few benefits of using that system. As for the other questions regarding that, I do not know. You may have to call up your parts department and ask them if their is a difference between all disc brakes and disc/drum master cylinders.

 

I founf out master cylinder is the same (but source may be wrong). i will double check.

but what i really need to know is do I need a new proportioning valve? I dont' even really know what that is or where it's located but I know it disctributes brake fluid to the brakes according to OEM specifications. If you change the brake sysytem to something other than vehicle-specific OEM than I think you have to change this.

 

you will need a proportioning valve if you look at the master cylinder below it is this funky lookin distribution block of sorts your going to need a 11mm flare nut wrench to take it off and a 12mm socket to disconnect the valve from the master cylinder