ques about warranty
i bought my car from a used car dealer as is. i was wondering if the factory warranty still applies cause my right front bearing is going and redz told me if it is covered i can get it fixed. can anybody help me clarify this
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i used to work for hyundai
if you bought it used you only get the 5 year/60 bumper to bumper warranty you dont get the full 10year/100k |
fvck my car has 66k just over the limit. so how hard is it to fix on my own, i only ask cause from reviews on my searches i am gettin a bunch of mixed messages
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taken from http://www.rdtiburon.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4980
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Me)</div><div class='quotemain'><span style="color:blue">Q: Could you please explain the Hyundai Warranty for me? dunno.gif </span> A: Don't you watch TV? 10 year/100,000 miles. Thats it.... or not. There's fine print... there's always fine print. Which question fits you? Did you purchase your car new? Hyundai offers a 5 year / 60,000 mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty and 10 year / 100,000 mile Powertrain Limited Warrantyfor Hyundai vehicles model year 1999 and newer. As the original owner, you have the 5 year / 60,000 mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty and the 10 year / 100,000 mile Powertrain Limited Warranty. Did you purchase your car used? As the second or subsequent owner of a Hyundai vehicle, you would lose the 10 year / 100,000 mile Powertrain Limited Warranty. However, you would have Powertrain warranty coverage that is included under the remainder of the 5 year / 60,000 mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty available to you. If the second owner were an immediate family member (husband, wife, son, daughter, stepson or stepdaughter) of the original owner of a Hyundai vehicle of model year 1999 - 2003, then the entire original warranty (both the New Vehicle Limited Warranty and Powertrain Limited Warranty) would go to the second owner.</div> and... i wouldn't suggest doing your own bearing. leave it to someone else. the part itself is rather cheap, but it is labor intensive. thats where all the money lies |
thx sparticus
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if you decide to take it to the dealer hit me up on aim i have some tips that can save you alot of money
ah screw it ill post them here 1. when you go in ask them how many hours they are charging you and ask them to show you the mitchell manual to verify that you arent overpaying(it shows the maximum time a job should take by the tenth of a hour) dealers tend to round up..to the nearest hour so if it says 2.1 you end up paying for 3 hours of labor 2. tell them you would not like to pay for shop supplies most places will charge you up to $15 for supplies thats like the 1 rag they used and the dirty uniform and some spare grease(if they say no thats ok some places HAVE to charge this also cuz youll make a better price with the other 2 steps) 3. also ask them what there labor rate is (ie $75 a hour) and tell them you wont pay anymore than what the mitchell manual says for hours times what the labor rate is dealers use a "grid" meaning that you end up paying more as the labor time goes up for example ---------- at my work labor rate - 80 a hour time to complete 5.5 hours dealers total for labor - 517.46 now divide the dealers total for labor by 5.5 hours you end up paying 94.09 per hour of labor --------- all this is true dealers/mechanics do this so watch yourself if they refuse to bring down to the right price tell them fine if your not going to do honest business ill take it to someone who will. |
thx appreciated
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Borrow a gauge cluster with less miles.
LOL |
wish i could redz
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Can you get them at autozone?
Pick one up and have it replaced at a local car shop. Should be pretty cheap that way. |
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