^ are you referring to this, as a replacement for a glasspack?:
http://www.borla.com/products/product_mult...Bullet+Mufflers

Any info on it? Is it quieter than a glasspack?

By the way, redz and socks, there are more than a couple of threads in which people recomend Thrush as the glasspack to use, if it is a piece of shit and you know it why didn't you post in there?
I got a thrush too, not because I was cheap, but because people recommended it, so there

i never post about people using cheap parts, cuz thats what tiburon owners do, use cheap parts for the most part..

i've given my opinions.. 100$ more than the cheapest someone can assemble is too high for peoples pockets, so i give up and laugh when stuff like this happens.. lmao.gif

I never said it was a cheap or crappy part.

Radu, you need to read my man.

I like Dynomax stuff, I'm assuming what happened is DTN has no tune on his car, running rich as usual, and unburnt fuel is making it through his exhaust, when it gets absorbed into his glasspack, and then hot enough, it lights up.

Fuel soak and the high heat from it results in damaging the cat, so It could easily happen to a glasspack too.

alright... you sparked me Z.. I'm calling my dyno guy right now because they have AFR figures they can put out from the exhaust.

Drat closed.. I'm going to try to dyno the car soon.

Good call REDZ. My local speed shop said they have never seen a problem with ZEX tuning. It is tuned fuel-nitrous pressure and then tuned again by metering jets. My kit could be the exception.

I've wanted to get figures before and after a ECU reset, then a reading with a nitrous oxide burn. It costs $90 and gives you A/F ratio by calculated exhaust readings. I will wait until I get a new ECU as I am troubleshooting a problem with the A/C right now. All shall be revealed by the Dyno.

Btw.. From what I've read, nitrous will run hotter then turbo anyday because the nitrous/fuel mixture has to separate before it can burn, it takes a split second, but the majority of the burn occours towards the end of the stroke. The air and fuel ignites, then the nitrous oxide breaks apart, then the nitrous oxide oxygen burns the remaining fuel. The process happens quick, but leads to higher exhaust temperatures then a tuned turbo.

Get a wideband instead so you can get your own readings on the A/F ratios. It'd be cheaper in the long run, just install it separately.

ZEX could be all fine and dandy, but you have a OEM ECU, which runs very rich to begin with.

Before my exhaust and tuning, I was running all the way to 10:1 A/F ratio at WOT, and had fuel spraying out of my exhaust tip.

No longer happens with my MS of course.

My narrow band readings according to my OBD-II scaner on a graph peak lean just as often running nitrous as without, but to be on the safe side, it is probly a good idea to dyno and see how rich I am running. I've noticed I have a buildup of black on my muffler tip after a week of driving.

Narrowband readings are worth SHIT. They'll always read lean or rich, so of course it's 1/2 this and 1/2 that.

Wideband man, wideband. You could also always toss a white towel or some white papertowels under and behind your muffler tip, weight them down, then get in the car and rev the engine hard a few times, if you see fuel on the towel, RICH.

Or just get a wideband. Thats the way to go. Couple hundred bucks and you get a neat gauge that actually tells you something.

This thread made me think of the scene in 2 fast 2 furious when they're in the car and the guys shoot them up and then all the sudden they yell "NOOOSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!" and the car blows up.

You're lucky 2 fast 2 furious isn't real.

LOL. I remember that. Danger to Manifold! OK, thats the first one I think.