well it's offical my current set up with one 12" sony that is powered by 800w MA audio amp (m680i) is running at 139.7 db and the guys who tested it said with a little fine tuning it will easly get over 140 db's. they were realy shocked to see one 12" sony x-plod can do that. when i frist when in there they were all ya ya ya blah blah but after the frist loud brrub they were my best friends go figer huh.

nice, any sound dampening?

no ,i was going to dynomat the trunk but the lack of funds stopped me ....soon though.

If you dynomat what all do you do? What are the benifits?

help minimize rattle... helps hold the noise decibles inside the car, thus making your car a big ol giant vibrator (obvious benefits there)

is it better for the car to get dynomat?
You don't do the whole inside of your car do you?

Depends, if you are going show, Dynomat, if GO, then don't, the stuff isn't light.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (cdogtibby1)</div><div class='quotemain'>help minimize rattle... helps hold the noise decibles inside the car, <u>thus making your car a big ol giant vibrator </u>(obvious benefits there)</div>

LOL, and actually it removes/lessens vibration not increases it Cdog

Vulcanwolf wrote:
is it better for the car to get dynomat?
You don't do the whole inside of your car do you?


If your car is mainly going to be driven on the street....i'd suggest doing the hatch and trunk floor.....and put some peices behind and where the the speakers mount.
It does add quite a bit of weight, but just doing the hatch area....I'd did not notice any drop in performance (didn't seem like any weight was added)
and my tiny 30w x 2 powered kenwood sub got ALOT louder.
Of course, if you look at my sig you can see whats in the process of being built.
I'd definately recommend doing at least the hatch, that alone may bump up your SPL to over 140. If you do the whole car (firewall, roof included...) you could easily see 142, maybe 143.