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Installing A Sound System

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 08:33 AM
  #21  
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Fun factoid: most of that watt is heat. Subs are something under 1% efficient at converting their electric input into motion. Semantics. Point is, install the system & see if he needs a cap first.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #22  
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Now you're getting into work versus load versus environmental factors versus effiency and other physics questions. That does not relate.

For a good quality sound system you need at least 100Wrms for a subwoofer. You want 400Wrms. Whenever you install an additional, high amperage, rapidly changing, pulsed, electrical load on your battery it's always a good idea to make up for it. There's no way to "know" you need a capacitor, unless you buy a new battery and deplete it over the course of a few months with loud music, then buy an old battery and deplete it over the course of a few months.

Capacitors are designed to charge quickly and discharge quickly. Capacitors keep voltage steady by reacting quickly to changes in amperage. At bare minimum, it helps the battery to charge quicker by keeping the voltage at a overall higher potential during the peaks and sags of the alternator pulses. Worst case, it will extend the life of the battery.

Trust me, it's not snake-oil. I've been an electronics tech for 11 years now. There's a very scientific principal behind them which we can get in-depth with in a different thread. It's not a matter of if you "Need" a capacitor or not. It's "How much do you need" a capacitor. Its: "Is it worth $25-100 to put less stress on the alternator and extend the battery for a few months?"
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #23  
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Dude, let's not try to see whose elex tech resume pee-pee is longer. Oh wait, it's DTN you like to go 'round the mullberry bush when you think you're right.

Every amplifier in everybody's car has capacitors in the power supply. Not every install needs MORE capacitance. A high power rated amplifier will (well, should) have a huge capacitor bank inside. If you are barely putting out a few watts, there will be NO NEED for more capacity, battery, cap, or alternator.

Anyone who wants to read the thread knows my opinion on the subject. Keep going if you want.
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #24  
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Dimming issues are usually to do with poor earthing and poor quality amps. Don't expect to see 1800w from a sony(LMAO). 9 times out of 10 people forget to sand back to were the earthing point of the amps is hooked up on the chassis. Also the gains get set incorrectly. I am running a rockford 250m2(125wrms per channle) and a cutting edge audio 7oom amp which is hooked up to a jl12w3 at 2ohms pushing 700wrms. My solution was a 0aga cable, and the biggest battery I could fit(out of a 4.0 V6). Never have I had a problem, and your alternator is also 90amps. Do it right and you will never need a cap. A cap actually ruins the spl reading, and doesnt improve sq. Also, a good quality amp has allready a decent input filter stage, which has been engineered to do the job properly. Lesson, The money you spend on a cap and cheap high power amps, your better off getting an amp with lower power and costs as much as the cheap amp and cap. Also my Rocky is 15years old. Never missed a beat, you wont get that life out of a cjeapo, because internally all the components are brand name. Like Nichicon caps...
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 09:30 PM
  #25  
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well i wasnt going to bring an old topic back but since it already was...does anyone know which wire in the wiring harness i splice with the remote lead from my amp?
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Old Mar 25, 2010 | 11:47 PM
  #26  
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QUOTE (mrrock @ Mar 25 2010, 10:23 PM)
Dimming issues are usually to do with poor earthing and poor quality amps. Don't expect to see 1800w from a sony(LMAO). 9 times out of 10 people forget to sand back to were the earthing point of the amps is hooked up on the chassis. Also the gains get set incorrectly. I am running a rockford 250m2(125wrms per channle) and a cutting edge audio 7oom amp which is hooked up to a jl12w3 at 2ohms pushing 700wrms. My solution was a 0aga cable, and the biggest battery I could fit(out of a 4.0 V6). Never have I had a problem, and your alternator is also 90amps. Do it right and you will never need a cap. A cap actually ruins the spl reading, and doesnt improve sq. Also, a good quality amp has allready a decent input filter stage, which has been engineered to do the job properly. Lesson, The money you spend on a cap and cheap high power amps, your better off getting an amp with lower power and costs as much as the cheap amp and cap. Also my Rocky is 15years old. Never missed a beat, you wont get that life out of a cjeapo, because internally all the components are brand name. Like Nichicon caps...
A cap ruins SPL readin
A CAPACITOR RUINS SPL READINGS?

RTFT.

I'm done. This is getting retarded.

Thats wrong on so many levels.

Everyone who does not believe in capacitors needs to take a electronics course. Skip the digital stuff, just basic electronics. Learn about Resistors, Capacitors and Inductors. Skip the particle physics stuff. Seriously. Learn.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 06:30 AM
  #27  
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QUOTE (tktibby01 @ Mar 26 2010, 12:30 AM)
well i wasnt going to bring an old topic back but since it already was...does anyone know which wire in the wiring harness i splice with the remote lead from my amp?



You still didnt get the right wire? I thought you said it was all labeled for you on the phone..lol
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #28  
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its labeled alright lmao i still dont know though...my best guess is that its the ignition one, but i dont want to be wrong and after to spend more on a new wiring harness. id rather no for sure heather you jerk;]
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #29  
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I believe the yellow wire is the ignition wire.
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Old Mar 26, 2010 | 07:04 PM
  #30  
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yeah terence i told it was the ignition wire u fool smile.gif
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