do I need bigger wire?
 

ok i'm about to buy another amp. so ill have three amps in total. one for my component set, one for my 6x9's and one for my subs.

punch 300x
punch 400.4
punch 800.2

right now im running one 4 gauge power wire to the back and have 4 8 guage wires coming out. one for each amp and one for the compressor and one for the pressure switch. ill figure out how to wire the extra amp in there but will the 4 gauge be big enough for all those components. of course the compressor and pressure switch wont always be on.

so really what im asking is the 4 gauge good enough for all 3 amps?

see what happens with the 4 guage if there are probs go to a bigger one

If you're adding in the 800 amp, I'd probably run another 4 AWG wire in parallel to the existing one. Or if I wanted more show for the install, I'd upgrade to a 1/0 AWG wire, and upgrade the distribution block, as well.

From the distribution block, I'd use 8 AWG to the existing components, and a 4 AWG wire to the 800 amp. Depends on what I'm doing with the presentation.

Running an additional 4 AWG wire is easier, and cheaper. It's somewhat easier to run, as the second 4 AWG wire will bend easie than a larger wire for access space, and can use odd-shaped openings better than the larger single wire. You won't have to upgrade to a larger distribution block. It will also help isolate the 800 amp from the other amps, but will have additional parasitic capacitance to deal with. It won't make for as clean an install, overall.

The single 4 AWG is insufficient for the current draw, according the the standard IASCA charting system, unless your amp rack is within 4' of the battery. smile.gif

wow...ok lemme see..

im actually adding the 300x amp. i already have the 800.2 and 400.4 on the block right now. i was thinking of running all off the 4 gauge since the comp/switch only comes on when i need them. and if they do come on i turn off the system just in case.

the 800.2 actually doesnt take a 4 gauge. if it does then man. it would have to be trimmed down. i only have a 1 farad cap. do i need another for the other two smaller amps?

oh and the alt is probably going to take a dump with all this on it. has anyone found a company who makes high output alts for the tibs?

For the alternator, no. But there are companies out there that will rebuild your alternator for a higher amperage.

BTW. Beta1's are 90 amp Beta2's are 80 Amp

Dan-
I'm a total novice when it comes to wiring Audio setups, could you provide a link to that "standard IASCA charting system" for determining proper wire gauge vs length of run?

[ October 16, 2002, 11:19 AM: Message edited by: Random ]

i would run 1/0 gauge. i only have one amp and a 15 farad cap, and have 1/0 gauge. its actually pretty easy to run in tibs. you just have to pull the drivers seat out and pull up the carpet on the drivers side. but it turns out nice.

mabe this will be alittle help,,with what info youve givin us,between the 3 amp(and assuming your running at a 4 ohm load,your current draw would be 101.15Amps,now depending on the length of wire run,4 guage is good for 4 to 10 feet from the battery,2 guage any were from 10 to 13 ft,,anything beyond that id drop down to 0 gauge.{Using IASCA Recomended Guage}.. but remember this is only calculating at 101.15 amps {all 3 amps running 4 ohms) and the amprage can change
hope this helps you

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Random:
For the alternator, no. But there are companies out there that will rebuild your alternator for a higher amperage.

BTW. Beta1's are 90 amp Beta2's are 80 Amp

</div>i havent found a company to rebuild it yet. the local one in town said they cant do it. im going to invest in another alt and then send it out to get it rebuilt. so mines 90 amps. thats okay but its going to take a dump sooner or later.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>xxxmonoxidechild:
i would run 1/0 gauge. i only have one amp and a 15 farad cap, and have 1/0 gauge. its actually pretty easy to run in tibs. you just have to pull the drivers seat out and pull up the carpet on the drivers side. but it turns out nice.</div>wow 15 farad cap. you really need that?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Randy:
mabe this will be alittle help,,with what info youve givin us,between the 3 amp(and assuming your running at a 4 ohm load,your current draw would be 101.15Amps,now depending on the length of wire run,4 guage is good for 4 to 10 feet from the battery,2 guage any were from 10 to 13 ft,,anything beyond that id drop down to 0 gauge.{Using IASCA Recomended Guage}.. but remember this is only calculating at 101.15 amps {all 3 amps running 4 ohms) and the amprage can change
hope this helps you</div>thnx, yeah im running a 4 ohm load as far as the mids/highs. the subs are at a 2 ohm load. to match the optimum performance of the punch amp. the 4 gauge is about 10 feet long. (i think) man thats going to suck if i have to get all new wiring again. i just bought my 4 gauge about 3 months ago. :D oh well. gotta do what i gotta do. and where do you get the info about IASCA? thnx

most of the info can be atained at your local library,,or any MECP Certified Training book will cover this type of info,if you need the chart i can always scan a copy onto the Comp and email ya one

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Randy:
most of the info can be atained at your local library,,or any MECP Certified Training book will cover this type of info,if you need the chart i can always scan a copy onto the Comp and email ya one</div>they have it at the library? whoa... yeah man if you would beable to scan it id really appreciate it. it would be a nice chart to review and post for people who want to know. thnx!