I bought a JL 10W6V2, yesterday, for $280CDN. I finished my audio install around Feb (maybe March), of this year. Maybe you guys remember that I only wanted something slightly better than stock. This quickly changed as I craved for more. I'm really happy with my Kicker 75W RMS on the front, but I wasn't too happy with my 150W RMS sub. This time I wanted to go JL or no sub. I know they're expensive, but I wanted quality. So, yesterday I bought the JL 10W6V2, which can handle up to 500W RMS; I have it installed to my amp bridged to 500W RMS.

Now it's like a brand-new sound system all over again!! It's a 10", as you can tell from the model #, so I don't lose a lot of trunk space, and the punch is more than you can probably handle without going deaf laugh.gif I went for a 2 hour ride with my wife, last night, just so we could appreciate it smile.gif

 

I'm right with you man. i stripped out my car completly exept for the dash, door cards, and speakers. Then i finall got around to buying power wire and an rca cable. now im rocking my 12" 300watt Kenwood. let me tell you, it was loud in the tiburon but with the mitsubisha all striped out the bass hit that back window and bounches off all the bare metal making it suuuuuper loud.

i also went on an hour ride fing02.gif

 

I love me some JL Audio.

Way the hell back in the day, I had four 12W0's (4-ohm) in a nearly 5-cubic foot box that I built from 3/4" HDF, 1"x1" internal supports and smothered the inside in urethane interior sealant and lots of damping material.

149.2db @ 53hz, measured at the front windshield. Came in 4th place in Wichita DB Drags in 1998, the folks who beat me were entirely shop-sponsored cars -- 3rd place had eight 15's, and they only got bigger from there. It would rattle stuff behind your eardrums, hell it would rattle your voice as you were talking.

W0's are the lowest-cost subs that JL offers, and I think I paid $300 for the set of four back in '97 when I bought them. Used a pair of Best Buy "HiFonics Centurian" amplifiefrs (100 x 2 @ 4 ohms, bridged at 2 ohm mono for ~400W) -- one amp per pair of speakers. Ignoring the ridiculous sum I paid for my Eclipse 5342R deck at the time, I probably paid less than a grand for the subs, amps, wiring, box construction materials, two 1-farad caps and an active sub crossover.

JL's kick a serious amount of ass for the cash smile.gif

 

^^ I couldn't agree with you more: JL's cost an arm and a leg! The way I figure it, though, buy it once (great quality = JL) don't have to buy it again for a long time.

The guy had 8 15's?! Damn!!! Just with this 10w6V2 I got, I can feel the back of my head vibrate, on moderate bass (not max!). Of course, I try not listen to it to the point that the back of my head is rattling laugh.gif




I'm not sure if you wrapped your interior panels with dynomat (I used Brown Bread), but it makes a heck of a difference too. With windows and doors closed and the music blaring, in my tib, you can hear it from outside, but you'd think, "this guy's system sounds like stock" ('cause you can barely hear it outside). But open the doors and get inside, and you won't be able to talk to the passenger. I'm glad I spent those $250 on the Sound Deadening Brown Bread. If you haven't done that, Jeromy, my advice: totally worth it! fing02.gif

 

You're both right. I've got a 10W6 that's almost as old as my car and it's still going strong.

When I turn it up, I only turn it up until the interior panels start rattling. At that point, you still can't tell what's going on inside the car, from outside. Love it.

 

I have a set of jl 8w3's in 8 ohm version waiting to get installed. i'm more of a SQL than SPL kinda guy.