Would there be anyone willing to buy a fully built Tib motor?
DLRM - The engines would work on a "trade-out" basis -- you pay $2800** up front, I send you a fully built engine. If you send me back your stock 2.0L engine, I refund you around $800**.
UNIQ - while I could build you an engine, I would want a 2.0L in return. Since you do not have one to send me, I would end up not giving you a "refund". As such, the pricetag for you would be around $2800**.
**I haven't set any of this pricing in stone, I'm simply here to get ideas. Longblocks aren't cheap to get, and availability of parts may put a hamper on the overall cost. If there's enough interest, I'll start researching further. But as it stands, around $2800 sounds right to me, give or take...
-Red-
UNIQ - while I could build you an engine, I would want a 2.0L in return. Since you do not have one to send me, I would end up not giving you a "refund". As such, the pricetag for you would be around $2800**.
**I haven't set any of this pricing in stone, I'm simply here to get ideas. Longblocks aren't cheap to get, and availability of parts may put a hamper on the overall cost. If there's enough interest, I'll start researching further. But as it stands, around $2800 sounds right to me, give or take...
-Red-
hey red..any idea on the buildup time???
i'm interested in the longblock ::evil grin::
got some tricks and ideas to play with and a rock solid longblock to0 start with would be a big help.
would this motor drop in place?? assuming i got it from you and didn't want to do any work right away..would it be happy in a 99% stock setup??
i gots 2 projects in mind, and the 2.0 is looking to be the happier of the 2
i'm interested in the longblock ::evil grin::
got some tricks and ideas to play with and a rock solid longblock to0 start with would be a big help.
would this motor drop in place?? assuming i got it from you and didn't want to do any work right away..would it be happy in a 99% stock setup??
i gots 2 projects in mind, and the 2.0 is looking to be the happier of the 2
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Originally posted by 2 UNIQ:
I wouldnt start if i was you
</div>
Or what? You'll put me on your ignore list? You'll flame me? You'll cry to an admin? You'll walk across your one-room shack and tell mommy that somebody was mean to you? You'll give me a one-star...oh, wait I guess that's where my only vote came from. Grow up already. And learn to read all the words that other people take the time to type on the threads before you ask already answered questions.
What the hell are *you* going to do? tongue.gif
I wouldnt start if i was you
</div>Or what? You'll put me on your ignore list? You'll flame me? You'll cry to an admin? You'll walk across your one-room shack and tell mommy that somebody was mean to you? You'll give me a one-star...oh, wait I guess that's where my only vote came from. Grow up already. And learn to read all the words that other people take the time to type on the threads before you ask already answered questions.
What the hell are *you* going to do? tongue.gif
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Originally posted by trypgod:
hey red..any idea on the buildup time???</div>I was actually thinking about this... I could instead just take orders as they come, so long as I have a 2.0L starter block in the garage. I could probably put one together in four to six weeks, most of that time would be machine work and waiting for Crower to get the rods put together (they are by far the biggest time constraint)
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>would this motor drop in place?? assuming i got it from you and didn't want to do any work right away..would it be happy in a 99% stock setup??</div>
Yes, it would. The performance should, for the most part, be almost on-par with what the stock motor does. It will probably suffer from less low-end power, but should make up some of it at the top-end because of the headwork. The lesser performance at the low-end is from the 1pt drop in static compression and bigger ports in the head. The offset at high RPM's would come from the fully balanced rotating assembly, tighter quench clearances and the bigger ports in the head.
As it stands, even $2800 may be too little. Here is the preliminary math, although many of these figures are subject to change (hopefully to the cheaper side smile.gif )
$675 - Crower Rods
$550 - Ross Racing pistons, pins and rings
$400 - Cylinder head work
$400 - All new gaskets, bearings, seals, valve springs
$350 - Overbore, blueprint, final hone, hot tank
$200 - ARP Studs on crank mains, cyl head
$75 - Rotating Assy balance
We're already at $2650, and I haven't even bought a block yet. I'm still missing some components in that list, also to include my own labor smile.gif and costs of plastiguage, clay (for claytesting the quench clearance), assembly lube and other misc BS needed to assemble a dry motor.
This is probably a $3000 engine we're talking about, which raises the ante a bit. sad.gif I don't suppose anyone's still interested after hearing $3000? Not that I would blame you, I never realized how much I've spent on this thing, and hell that's only the engine!
-Red-
hey red..any idea on the buildup time???</div>I was actually thinking about this... I could instead just take orders as they come, so long as I have a 2.0L starter block in the garage. I could probably put one together in four to six weeks, most of that time would be machine work and waiting for Crower to get the rods put together (they are by far the biggest time constraint)
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>would this motor drop in place?? assuming i got it from you and didn't want to do any work right away..would it be happy in a 99% stock setup??</div>
Yes, it would. The performance should, for the most part, be almost on-par with what the stock motor does. It will probably suffer from less low-end power, but should make up some of it at the top-end because of the headwork. The lesser performance at the low-end is from the 1pt drop in static compression and bigger ports in the head. The offset at high RPM's would come from the fully balanced rotating assembly, tighter quench clearances and the bigger ports in the head.
As it stands, even $2800 may be too little. Here is the preliminary math, although many of these figures are subject to change (hopefully to the cheaper side smile.gif )
$675 - Crower Rods
$550 - Ross Racing pistons, pins and rings
$400 - Cylinder head work
$400 - All new gaskets, bearings, seals, valve springs
$350 - Overbore, blueprint, final hone, hot tank
$200 - ARP Studs on crank mains, cyl head
$75 - Rotating Assy balance
We're already at $2650, and I haven't even bought a block yet. I'm still missing some components in that list, also to include my own labor smile.gif and costs of plastiguage, clay (for claytesting the quench clearance), assembly lube and other misc BS needed to assemble a dry motor.
This is probably a $3000 engine we're talking about, which raises the ante a bit. sad.gif I don't suppose anyone's still interested after hearing $3000? Not that I would blame you, I never realized how much I've spent on this thing, and hell that's only the engine!

-Red-
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Originally posted by Red:
UNIQ - while I could build you an engine, I would want a 2.0L in return. Since you do not have one to send me, I would end up not giving you a "refund". As such, the pricetag for you would be around $2800**.
-Red-</div>
Thats not a problem RED i can get you the Block with the 2.0L Crank and rods in exchange for the built Block with the works
Let me know when your avaliable to do this Thanks!! smile.gif smile.gif
UNIQ - while I could build you an engine, I would want a 2.0L in return. Since you do not have one to send me, I would end up not giving you a "refund". As such, the pricetag for you would be around $2800**.
-Red-</div>
Thats not a problem RED i can get you the Block with the 2.0L Crank and rods in exchange for the built Block with the works
Let me know when your avaliable to do this Thanks!! smile.gif smile.gif
The BETAs are not well suited for N/A power; any engine that I might build would strictly be for turbocharger application. Not only would an N/A engine be more expensive to build (likely into the $5000 category due to extreme attention to head design, rotating assembly changes and piston design) but would also yield less overall power for that greater cost.
I am only considering building engines meant for turbocharger application; even so, these engines will likely be more than $3000 fully ready. I will likely not persue this endeavor, simply because I doubt anyone here wants to spend $3000+ on an engine that they didn't build themselves.
I recently tallied up the costs involved in my own project, and much to my dismay, I could have likely paid cash for a new Accent by now eek.gif since I have charged absolutely nothing.
-Red-
I am only considering building engines meant for turbocharger application; even so, these engines will likely be more than $3000 fully ready. I will likely not persue this endeavor, simply because I doubt anyone here wants to spend $3000+ on an engine that they didn't build themselves.
I recently tallied up the costs involved in my own project, and much to my dismay, I could have likely paid cash for a new Accent by now eek.gif since I have charged absolutely nothing.
-Red-


