ok so ive started turboing my rd2 and ive come across some issues.

i think its all becuase of the oem ecu though.



so the car starts and idles fine it just doesnt seem to like the boost at all.

if i wot the car in first boost seems fine but if i shift into second it just has no power at all for a second and then starts picking back up. i havent really been trying to get into boost much becuase of the issue so its hard to explain but i think its fuel related.



also when i go to shift and im not quick enough about it or if i let off the gas to come to a stop the car just want to bog down and die. is that becuase my bov isnt recirculated?



also is it good to be running a 1.8l ecu with my setup i have 1 from a 2.0l sitting in my garage along with an smt6 and duel rail setup just havent gotten around to messing with it yet mainly because i dont know what size the injectors that came with it are and time?



at what psi of boost do the beta1 injectors start failing?





my setup includes the following

evo style turbo manifold

tial 38mm wastegate ( 5.5 psi spring in it)

ebay t3/t4 turbo

open downpipe

decent sized front mount intercooler

2.5 piping

tial q blow off valve(not recirculating)and ran off of vacuum block

rside 65mm throttlebody

airram intake manifold

1.8l intake cam

fidanza camgear(timing set to normalright now)

oem beta1 injectors

aem fuel pressure regulator( base fuel pressure set to 48psi)

walbro 255 fuel pump

ark racing underdrive pulley kit ( does any company make underdrive alt pully?)

blox vaccum block

fidanza flywheel

clutchmaster stage 3 clutch

1.8l ecu



thanks for the advice in advance

 

If you want high quality engine running, you will need a decent engine management system. Consider yourself fortunate that you have not blown up yet using a stock computer. /thread.

 

Your problem is tuning, or a lack thereof for the setup you have.

Uh, if you have an Gen2, which were only offered in 2.0L versions in the USA, why are you running a 1.8L ECU?



When you go to shift, the BOV dumps a bunch of air that the MAF already recorded as going into the engine. So when you get into 2nd gear, The BOV dumps that air, but the ECU is still dumping fuel for air your engine isn't getting. You've got WAY TO MUCH FUEL and yes, the engine is bogging because you've just drowned-ed it with fuel.



What you need, at a minimum for low boost, would be a recirc style BOV, or fab up some tubing to make yours into a recirc BOV if at all possible. Keep the BOV recirc dump as far away from the MAF as possible. If it's too close the backwash from the BOV dump may damage the MAF element.



the stock fuel injectors, with a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure regulator, and a good high volume fuel pump should safely see you to 200-225 WHP. Beyond that, you'll want larger injectors or additional injectors. You COULD eek out more of the stock injectors, but for me, it's a comfort factor. Tally up everything you've spent so far on your car. Are you willing to trash that engine to save $200 on a set of new injectors? Nah, didn't think so.



Then there are the limitations of the MAF, and the ways to work with/around that...but that's a whole nuther kettle o fish for another thread.

 

install smt6 and duel rail setup along with a map sensor if possible. then move your maf after the bov, if its still needed. Im not real familiar with the smt6.







most important TUNE.

 

You're telling him to install a SMT6, but you're not familar with it. Then why recommend it?



You do NOT want to install the MAF AFTER the BOV. The MAF would be subject to air under pressure (which MAF's don't/can't read) so the MAF Sensor output would not be accurate. Plus the pressure pulses between the Turbine/throttle body can easily break the MAF Element. That is why you install the MAF BEFORE the turbine, so that it measures air going INTO the turbo. That's why you need a recirc BOV, so that the air already measured by the MAF is RE-circulated into the system between the turbine inlet and the MAF, rather than vented to outside air.

 

smt6 is common on the rd. if he installed it there are alot of threads up for any problems or questions he may have.



im more familiar with aem FIC.



i was saying if it cant be removed. you would be basing everything off the MAP sensor instead of the MAF witch has its limitations as stated.



in other words im saying its only there to trick to the ecu, the readings are not being used.



i guess the position would not matter so that was my bad, but i doubt he wants to buy another bov if he spent the money on a tial already. I have also seen Rds run on low boost 4-6 psi with the maf after the bov with just rrfpr, stock injectors, and walbro 255. they had no problems till raising the boost levels. but its not healthy for the sensor and is not very accurate as you said.

 

smt6 is not standalone, it works in conjunction with the ECU, which would still need to use the MAF



no idea how OP figured the OEM ECU would "just work" with boost

 

random- i am using 1.8 ecu in conjunction with the 1.8l intake cam which i was told was good for about 5whp gain.

am i wrong?



im only trying to boost 5-6psi at the moment till i get all the bugs worked out.



ok so should i spend the $85 to get the tial recirculating bottom half?



how do i go about converting the car from maf to map?



i have the dual rail setup up that used to be on socks old tib i just dont know what size the injectors are that are in it. what injectors can be used with our cars?



yea i was always told that boost would ruin the mafs in these cars.



thanks for the input

 

Get the model #'s and the maker off the injectors and google them. You should be able to figure out their size/flow rates.



the MAF will work up to about 6-8psi. Above that the flow rate of air is higher than the MAF can calculate/read/register and it just pegs. That usually triggers the stock ECU to go into LIMP mode, assuming some kind of MAF sensor fault.

Using a "piggy back" like SMT-6 you can limit the MAX MAF signal sent to the ECU to stop this, but still send the injectors a signal for more fuel, but its guesswork. Since the MAF is maxed, you don't know if you're at 1% over max or 25% over max, so you don't know how much fuel to add, you have to 'guess' how much. I think someone was working on a "dual maf" setup, but I don't know if it was ever successful, or what they used to make it work.



If you do a search on converting to MAP, you can read how others have done it.



You MIGHT be able to create a "recirc" for your existing BOV, but I haven't seen your BOV or how your MAF is connected to give you advice as to how to make it work in your setup. I know on my old Godzilla BOV, I was able to put a flexable silocone hose with hose clamp over it an turn it into a Recirc, even though it wasn't designed for it.

 

Nobody's mentioned it yet, but your base fuel pressure is about 5 psi too high also.