Tiberius

Hi,

I like the classic Tiburons. But the newest ones are 18 years old at this point. I would like to have one to enjoy and use it as a daily driver. It's very hard to find information on these cars online. For the 2003 and newer MKII is much easier to find info on. So I could find no buyer guides or tips to what look for when buying one, the weak points to pay attention too, potential problems etc. Or even a model guide following all years. It seems to be a very under appreciated little gem.

Modern Kias are very reliable. But are the RD cars? I hear the engine is. But what about the rest? Especially electrics and electronics too? What about rust? And what about parts availability? Only used at this point?

On the other side of the spectrum, are the engines easy and cheap to boost power if you want to stay NA? How much power can you reasonably expect? Are there things like short shifters still available?

I love the curvy lines and the overall look and would love to drive one. Think the style was way ahead of its time. Just now cars are starting to catch up. If you pay attention the moulded sides and creases of the RD is everywhere now a days. But the RD is a classic type of shape. Really nice.

My favorite is the RD2. It seems most prefer the RD1, which is also very nice. But I have a preference for the RD2.

So is buying one as a daily driver a good idea at this point? Or they are better enjoyed as weekend cars or the like? Thanks in advance for the help.

Tiberius

I was told this was the biggest forum for the RD. Perhaps it's just too late in the game and interest for it has died down? Maybe it's a sign to avoid it?

tibbytib

The RD community is getting smaller and smaller. But don't let that hinder your appreciation and love for the first gen tibs! They are great cars! Keep the fluids changed and timing belts fresh, and will last just as long as any Honda or Toyota.

Trouble is finding them in good shape these days. They are hard to come by. If you find one with low miles, pick it up! But do yourself a favor, replace the timing belt asap. Enjoy your search and hopefully you chime in soon with an RD to brag about!

Tiberius

Thanks for chiming in.

Would you have any tips concerning my questions above? Is there a better place to ask?

In terms of miles I have only found cars around the 100K miles mark. Should I steer clear? Like you said they are hard to come by and I can't be searching for 6 months. I need a daily soon.

JonGTR

I have owned both the RD and the GK for several years. They are both considered "reliable", however I had several electrical gremlins in the GK (2005) whereas I didn't have any issues at all with my 2001 (until I boosted it).

If you want something VERY reliable, I would go with a manual RD and do all the maintenance including timing belt. It will run forever but not have all the latest gizmos.

If you want a better looking interior with automatic A/C and newer style gauges, then go with a GK but I think it will give you some reliability issues. The V6 got me 22mpg whereas the I4 got me 30-32mpg.

If you know your way around a car and have the tools and driveway, then go with either and the best deal.

Tiberius

Hey JonGTR,

Thanks for the reply.

It's interesting that you chimed in. Because while looking through the forum searching for info, I saw a post by you and saw you avatar and I just had to look through your threads trying to find a larger version of your avatar photo, which I did. Very nice RD. I love the stance and wheel size.

I'm strictly interested in the RD cars at the moment. Not considering the later GKs etc. Only RDs.

By the way, did the RD2 have any technical advantages over the RD1? Or is the difference only cosmetic?

It's great to know the RD cars are reliable. I will definitely buy a manual transmission one too. Are parts still widely available for these cars?

Do you drive yours as a daily? Would you recommend?

So the engine is belt based? I thought I had read it was a time chain engine. I guess I confused it. I will definitely make sure to change the belt then as soon as I get it, unless I have a fresh receipt of it being done very recently (?).

Are there any weak points to pay attention to, potential problems with the RD cars etc?

I will be heavily relying on pictures from the seller before I commit to take a look, as I see already I probably won't find one around here. I will have to travel. So I will have to ask sellers to take pictures for me to see first in order to decide if it's worth going or not take a look at it. It can be a couple of hours driving. Are the any specific areas I should request pictures of? Maybe rear wheel arches? Are the RDs prone to rust?

Thanks again for chiming in.

JonGTR

By now, unless it's been garaged, you will need to find an RD from a southern state. They do rust! I found mine with a blown clutch and fuel pump for $300. Otherwise in great shape.

They do have timing belts. They are easy to replace and cheap. Parts for the car are still available and transmissions and motors are easily found in scrap yards. They are shared with the Elantra as well.

I stopped daily driving mine long ago since I bought more expensive vehicles. But, I do plan on getting the white RD back on the road since I hate putting so many miles on the truck.

Tiberius

Thanks. So there are no technical differences between the RD1 and RD2?

And as long as I find one with a running engine and no rust, there are no extra weak spots to be aware of and watch out for?

That's interesting and very handy that it shares parts with the Elnatra, as they are still produced till this day. Are the shared parts only with the contemporary Elantra J2/RD? Or also with newer Elantras? Thanks once more.

tibbytib

Mostly shared parts between the elantras and tibs will be found in similar years.

Jon's right, they do tend to rust with the age of the car and location. Mine has been in Colorado for 20 years, and no rust at all! So definitely find one in the drier southern states and you should have a pretty clean tib.

Rd1s and RD2s are pretty much the same. Cosmetic differences only. You'll want a newer RD1 with none captive rotors if you plan on putting aftermarket wheels on. Just makes it easier. Also, the newer RDs (99+) have the charcoal canisters relocated from the factory, so you don't have to do that on your own.

Only part that was a PITA to diagnose was a faulty iginition switch. Other then that, electronics are still solid.

Hmmm.....can't think of anything else right now.

Tiberius

Thanks. That's good news about later RDs being better as I'm looking for a RD2. Just love the look and find it so unique, even among other twin round head lights cars. So this part will be automatically covered.

Are there any particularly weak spots for rust? Or just the normal usual places such as rear wheel arches, sills and under doors?

In terms of engine power boost, what is the max power to be expected if keeping it NA? Thanks again.