well i have my heated seats pretty much done, i just cant find the right ignition wire

read in a few topics that it was the black one with a white stripe right behind the igntion cylinder, but the seats dont want to turn on

would splicing them into the ACC for the head unit be ok? or do i want to stick to getting the ignition wire to work

 

have you tried a jumper wire off the battery to the seats to double check that they do indeed work. you very well could be tapping the right wire, just the seats are busted.

 

good point, ill try that right now

 

Here's what I'd do. This is a high current application so it would not be a good idea to run it off the little sterio wire or fuse.

You'll need:
a sheet metal screw or mounting tape
wire
zip-ties
fuse tap
a relay (15A or higher)
crimp on terminals (1 oversized ring terminal to hook up to the bolt on the battery, 1 standard ring terminal to hook up to ground anywhere, and 4 plug terminals to hook to the relay).

It's all available at radioshack, but you might have to get the fuse tap at autozone or o'rileys. Trust me, they have them, they'll give you a funny/dumb look when you ask, but they have them. It hooks up into the fuse box. it's got 2 slots for fuses at a right angle and a wire that comes out of one of the fuse slots.

0. disconnect your battery. (hehe... 0, i forgot to put this in)
1. run a wire directly from the battery to the power of the unit.
2. cut the wire near the fuse box in the cabin.
3. select a fuse to be fuse tapped, like the radio fuse, then insert a 3-5A fuse into the fuse tap slot and put the stock fuse in the fuse slot.
4. hook up power from the fusetap to the activation line of the relay.
5. ground the ground line of the relay
6. hook up the the 2 ends of the cut wire to the 2 free ends of the relay.
8. use a sheet metal screw to mount the
7. use a sheet metal screw or mounting tape to secure the relay near the fusebox, under the dash
8. tidy up the wires with zipties to secure it so it will not move around, pull out of the relay or be unsightly.
9. reconnect battery.



If you did everything correctly you now have a professionally installed seat heating system. Cost ~ $10

 

well false alarm lol, appears the tap connectors i was using went actually penetrating the wire all the way through

but since where on the topic, what do you mean about the fuse tap?

like running a wire from battery to a empty spot in the fuse box, putting a fuse in there and going from there?

and every time i hear the word 'relay' it deals with something different, like split, time delay, spring, everything :S the regular '15A relay' your refering to is pretty much a splitter? or distribution block? want to figure this out once and for all lol

 

a fuse tap





one fuse goes back into the box, the other goes to the wire.


When one refers to a relay it means just that... a relay. A time delay relay would be something else. Just a standard relay. I think those other types you mentioned are solenoids or other types of electromotive/electrokenetic/electoswitching devices.

What you want is a switch which is automatically activated by a coil. AKA, relay.

Also, be careful of using that terminal for your seat heaters. It's not designed for a high amperage load. Your heaters draw too much for the sterio wire.

 

ok so by back in the box... so its a pre-existing fuse that your just tapping into?

im probably gona end up doing it your way once i get time to work on the car again because the passenger seat doesn't seem to be getting as warm as the drivers

 

DTN, you are not a moron man, it's STEREO, not STERIO.

Dayum. That's like 4 times in one thread.