Ok, so I dont know if any of you remember the seat heater group buy from so long ago... but, Im finally getting around to actually installing them. lmao.gif

I have everything in place and good to go. My question is this, I need to get at least 12 V of power for these things and I was wanting to know if I can tap off the airbag sensor that is bolted to the chasis under the center console that is directly under the E-brake? Do any of you think that there could be some sort of a problem with that? All I want to do is take enough of the insulation off, and wrap the power lead around that exposed wire and then cover it back up.
I need a sourse or power that is going to be constant and I fugred that this was going to be always on when the car is turned on...

Am I making any sence with this? LOL


Or would the seat belt sensor be a better tap? I looking for options that are close to the seats... and I have roughly a foot and a half to work with from the seat belt buckles. I suppose I should also mention that the wires will need to be able to move with the seat adjustments (forwards and backwards). I have a grommet that I am going to use for the wires so I dont have to worry about chaffing! heh I love bench stock... aircraft quality stuff in my car!! LOL I am still trying to figure out something to do with this Nuclear Consent to Arm switch... cool.gif

Anways, a little help would be greatly appreciated!

 

those heaters have to take some wattage. What I would do is run a line from the radio switched on power to the switch. From there I would run it to a relay to take direct hot (with an inline fuse) from the battery. This way you get good juice and do not have to worry about overtaxing the loom in the car.

 

They only require 12V... and most things inside the whole of the car take the same amount.

The only problem with that is that I dont have any extra wire to do that with... and the only way to get some is to go off base and the cheapest I could find yesterday was like 10 yards for 60 pounds... and dear god I dont need that much wire nor do I have 120 bux to spend on it... what is going to look like is going to have to happen is that I can hook everything up but not connect the power... and save that for a later date... 02.gif

 

12 volts yes.. but you are still pulling a lot of wattage. According to the paperwork I just dug up.. 70 watts PER heater. That is more draw than your main beams (high beams). You are going to need wiring of at least that gage and I really doubt that the wires that lead up to the airbag computer can carry that kind of juice without burning up.

 

gotcha.

well, looks like Im going to have to put my car back together and actually hook these up another day. heh


Ok, I was rereading these thigns and it says that I can hook them into the "ignition positive power" where is that?

-OR-

How woould I go about hooking it into the fuse box?


Those are two of the suggestions that it gave me... Im just looking for options now... but I have heard what you are saying Mad... that may be my route that Ill take anyways... but might as well look at the other options too while Im here...

 

if you want to do it super ghetto, but easy, go right into the fuse box. find a fuse for something that is on with ignition, like the radio. take the fuse out, and figure out which side of where the fuse plugs in is the hot side with a meter or test light. you will want the heater power wire to go into that spot, not the other spot. if you put it into the other spot and put the fuse back in, the fuse will pop. then just ground the black wire to any chassis bolt you can find.