Hey anyone got any pointers on installing HID's , possibly a guide I know I seen one awhile ago but can't seem to find it now. Thanks

 

Yup, it's in the Do It Yourself section.

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=50 - DIY Listing

RED ZMAN's write up: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=23103
my write up: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=13373 (it appears the pics no longer work)

it's really really simple. One plug only fits into one plug. Drill a hole in the back of the headlight cap to pul the wires through.

The bulb goes in just like a factory bulb, then wires come out of the headlight housing the the hole you drill in the headlight cap (the one you unscrew to replace bulbs). Mount the ballast somewhere in the engine bay, and run the wires to the ballast. You'll plug two small wires/connector into the factory bulb harness to get the power.

 

Thanks sorry for such noob question I remember reading redz awhile ago just got some time so going to install!

 

it took me 10 minutes during my lunch break in the dark. Let us know if you have any problems (utilize the shoutbox if you need an immediate response)

 

It took me quite a bit longer then that to do mine. I mounted mine to the bottom of the headlamp assembly and made sure everything was securely fastened.

 

I never bolted mine down, but they never shifted. One sat on the flat part next to the battery, the other ballast was between the washer fluid reservoir and something else.

 

It's never a good idea to have electronics bouncing around. It can eventually lead to a fire. Wires are really fragile when you look at their individual strands and movement over time can fray/snap them. Bare minimum, you should have some foam tape under the ballast and it should be secured in a single spot.

 

+1 holy cow. Never leave wires the only thing supporting anything

^ and that's from a trained electronics guy.

 

lol... I agree, but it's not like the ballast were sliding all over the place. At most they had 1-2" of wiggle room and there was plenty of wiring so it wouldn't pull, bend, crease, or cause problems. But to do it right, I should have bolted the suckers down. I had 3M tape that helped keep it from sliding, but it definitely lost its adhesiveness quick.

 

I've never had a problem with double sided foam tape comming loose. If you clean the area first with a degreaser, then follow up with rubbing alcohol it makes a clean surface. To ensure maximum adheason, heat the area with a heat gun or something first to promote the sticky "juices" to flow better at the microscopic level. I've used double sided sticky tape in a variety of situations, including making a 3x4 foot dry erase board stick on a small portion of the wall two door frames in an office by just it's edges on the two door frames. It's been up there for 6 months now and is going nowhere, even with people bumping into it, grabbing the pens and writing on it, and all that.

Most people won't take the time to clean and heat, so most people have bad results. When used properly, double sided foam tape is one of the best adhesives available. I always keep a roll of it in my cart at work.