wheel_of_steel

hey guys i'm in australia and im doing a beta II swap on my accent. specs so far:

alpha transmission
beta harness + ecu
ebay stage 3 clutch
stock driveshafts + 3 mounts
custom mount on right hand side

the swap has been comparitively easy so far, but rather slow moving. i've got to the point where the engine is in the car, 90% finished. still have to connect shifter cables and reinstall the cooling system. the wiring is kicking my ass! when you try to start the car, it just cranks over and over. the fuel pump won't prime, and only about half of the warning lights illuminate. no CEL, no oil warning light, nothing. i need some help here. to give you guys an idea, i hacked the alpha fusebox plug, and matched the wires from the beta plug so i could get it to plug into the alpha fusebox. i moved the ECM relay from the driver's footwell to the engine bay so i wouldn't have to extend any wires. i once again ran two wires from the beta loom to the hacked plug so i could have ignition, which might be where the problem is.

another problem is the immobiliser, which could be the source of all my hassles. the accent has two wires running to the smartra unit, a signal wire and an earth. the elantra has three wires, a signal, an earth and one running from the same circuit as the 02 sensor and such. can anyone shed any light as to what i should do? so far i tried matching the signal and earth wires, and also looping the wires back onto themselves, but no bananas, nothing changed at all.

what do you think guys? are the dead lights a function of the immobiliser, or is the CEL and such powered off the engine wiring loom? could it be that the ECM relay is just wired wrong? i'm getting pretty close to ditching and getting an auto electrician to finish the job.

i'll try to get some pics up soon guys. cheers

ereeves116

oh god

this is a nightmare, you are living the worst months of my life.

I did the exact same swap as you and ran into the same problems, crank and no pump, immobilizer. I spend so many weeks looking over wiring manuals, splicing and resplicing, asking tech guys at the dealership (no help of course) here's how i fixed it.

I had to tow it to a custom shop and have them fix my f*ck up. it cost me more than i would have liked. it is a super fun car now but when it comes to what i paid the electrician, i would have rather bought a different, faster car.

I found a little more luck when i messed around with the ECM power wires, that gave me a little luck until i touched wires and blew a fuse in one ECM. Dude to be honest with you, putting a beta II with CVVT into a 1.5 accent is NOT the easy swap I thought it would be (mechanically it was a piece of cake) electrically it was a nightmare.

I cut up all of my stock wires trying to get it to work and what ended up happening is the electircian had me get an all new set of uncut accent wires to fix it all. I wish I could help you but the fact of the matter is I failed in doing my swap 100% DIY and it cost me way more than I wanted to. I don't know what to tell you buddy....a pro will get it to work, but is it worth it? you have to ask yourself how much this car means to you.

Not being a pessimist, but i'd hate to see you have the financial regret i did.

HotBlue02

I did the swap about the same way as you, I also had issues with the priming of the fuel pump, cant remember the fix but start with the fuel pump relay and start checking incoming power.

wheel_of_steel

hmm cheers guys. ereeves, get out of my head! same situation. when you say you had a little luck messing with the ecm wires, could you clarify? atm i'm playing with the idea of ditching the relay function of the fuel pump and ecm, and instead running them both on toggle switches. also, blowing a fuse IN the ecm? you had to get a new computer or was that a fuse in the fusebox? how long did it take the shop to redo your car? like in terms of hours, but also total time in the shop.

another issue is what i think is the carbon canister. its hanging down below the IM, but the hose coming out of the canister has been cut. the australian accent uses a returnless fuel system, but it seems the elantra doesn't! i had a look at a used elantra to clarify this, the hose simply returns into the firewall. i think i'll reroute the hose so it feeds into the intake snorkel after the airbox, so i just get a temporary rich mix rather than dumping fuel into the engine bay :S

has anyone got some pictures of how the shifter cables on their gearbox? i disconnected them a while ago and may be missing a couple of bits and pieces.

anyway pics:

ereeves116

give me a bit to get pics of shifter cables. i don't remember exactly, i did my swap over a year ago but i know i got the fuel pump working somehow because the 5(?) or so power wires that went into the ECU were put in in the wrong order. i forget what i did but i did something with the order of those power wires and things were okay until two of them touched and the ECU got fried. It wasn't a fuse that blew i'm sorry, maybe it was a capacitor or something small in the ECU itself. either way i killed it and had to get a new one.

it took the shop maybe 2 weeks to get my car back to me but i also asked them to put the dash and interior back together for me. it was maybe 20 hours of work that went into it? They had to completely rewire the accent wires for all the interior functions and lights and then slipce the beta wires in for the engine. i'm sending you a PM.

wheel_of_steel

alright cheers man, i'll check out my fuel pump wiring. 20 hours! thats pretty scary but i think i've come to that point now. there's a good chance that its just the immobiliser that is messing sh*t up, at which point i can't do anything about it anyway. i'll have to swallow my ego (and wallet) and get the pros to do it. here's hoping that the stuff i've done so far won't need to be reversed!

anyways i'll keep you guys updated as i go, i'll try and scam as much info from the auto sparky that i can. thanks for all the help!

HotBlue02

I remeber the fuel pump issue not getting power may have had something to do with the engine bay fuse box, man i wish i could remember the details but it was 4+ years ago when i swapped everthing. I would think if the immobolizer was giving you problems then the car probly wouldnt crank over. If ya spray some starter fluid into the throttle body when someone is cranking her she if it trys to start, that should rule out the immobolizer.

wheel_of_steel

it runs!

after i took it to an auto electrician, $1000 later.

so here's the deal. i got to a point where it was stalled, it just wasn't going anywhere. took it to an auto electrician, and supplied them the wiring diagrams for the elantra and accent, that i had received from hyundai. they worked on the car for a couple of days, fixed up 2 or 3 wires that were in the wrong place sleep.gif but it still wouldn't start. put in the immobiliser and key from the donor elantra, and it still wouldn't start. it turns out that the wiring diagrams hyundai australia sent to me were completely wrong! 4 hours of labour down the toilet.

they got another diagram from one of their diagram services, and sure enough it was completely whack. so they restarted on the wiring, and made progress! after another couple of days, the fuel pump was priming, the coils were gettting power and sh*t was looking good. another couple of agonizing days later, it started!

drove it home from the auto sparky without an air filter at all, the airbox would not go in the engine bay at the same time as the battery. on the way home, i got bulk looks from police officers, spent time losing 'heat' in some random backyard. anyways its home now, and getting back together.

there are problems with the car, but nothing serious.
-clutch is slipping despite adjustment, but i think its just bedding in. also shudders and causes me to drive like a learner, bunny hopping it everywhere. the solid engine mount does nothing to help the situation.
-the solid engine mount is giving me hassle. vibration EVERYWHERE, the steering wheel, mirrors, hatch, ashtray, seat and heater core. i'm going to get it remade with a poly insert if i can.
-the water temp guage, CEL and tachometer are not wired up at the moment.
-rev limit seems to be around 4000 rpm? bouncing off the limiter at ~40 km/h in 1st, ~65km/h in second and ~110km/h in third. im still using the alpha box so i figured the limiter is a bit low. i've been reccommended a shop that can read the codes well and actually do something about it, so i might be looking at that. if the ecu isn't in some limp home mode or what have you, i may or may not send it off to NGM for some 7500rpm limiter action.
-the left-right shifter cable is adjusted wrong, 5th is hard to find and reverse is pretty much impossible to get.
-oh yeah, uhh its on open headers at the moment, shits kinda 110 decibels. i'm getting it welded by a mate for a temp fix, but the aim is to get some beastly SFR headers and a race cat done. if i have the extra paper, i'll get them to make up a test pipe as well, 'for track use only'.

so im happy with the car, i'll chuck up photos in a bit

187sks

Good to hear. Sounds like a PITA.

Stocker

The vibration, if it is just at idle, may be because you are using a 4-cylinder engine. If you increase idle speed by 100 or 200 RPM does the shaking go away?